paul mac

bumpety

cheers dude, payment recieved, will send out tommorow

top glove box lid in good nic £8 delivered SOLD, rear speaker covers again in good nic £8 please ignore the lower glove box in the pic as its long gone

as per the pic, ideal for polishing £45 delivered

i suppose when all you have driven is a Civic or a Focus its easy to get carried away thinking your stock TT is the fastest mofo on the streets, take it to BPU at around the 350 hp mark and you then get carried away into thinking you could take on anything on the road, to think your BPU is "biblicly fast" (was there anything fast in the bible ) really is a bit deluded, then quoting 600 hp really is getting into the trades discription act, wonder where he got it dyno'd

mate please dont take this the wrong way but for a belt to go like this indicates some serious neglect you need to think about some proper servicing, less time in the body shop more time looking after the basics or the next thing to go could be way more expensive

As per the title the Konis have about 30k miles on them and are the three way adjustable ones they are approximately 5 years old and still give a nice firm ride, the Eibachs are 3 years old with about 15k miles, sorry i wont split as they have been boxed up for some one else who pulled out £150 + £16 postage SOLD

Got the bad boy set up today by Martin (m_life) at Sapphire garage in Manchester, cheers dude and have not really had chance to give it any "spirited driving" yet but initial impressions of the R2 bushs is good, yes they do transmit road noise a bit more but not in a bad way. I know the Teins have there detractors but i am impressed, i have them on the softest setting so far and virtually all the crash, bang, wallop has disapeared, it is a far nicer ride than my old Konis set on firm, all the bangs and creaks have gone and i dont think you realise just how worn the suspension is until you replace it, pic shows repair of my problem worn rear ARB, i got the worn section level with emery then epoxy'd stainless shim of the correct thicness on, good as new , if anyone wants any more detail on any part of this rebuild let me know as i have about 300 pics. Right then back to this thread http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=176778&highlight=throttle+bodies

from just completing mine i think you are getting hung up on the wrong measurements, the critical measurements for the top bush steel insert would be its length not the id, the bolt is fine and cannot wear (unless it came loose) as it does not rotate, the whole arm pivots on the steel bush inserts, once you put the arm on and tighten the bolt the bolt then locks the two steel inserts in position and the poly bushs rotate round these fixed points, any slight play in the position you bolt the top arm up is adjusted for by the lower adjusters once you get it set up

when i took these off i was quite surprised at how worn they were, probably the most worn bit of the suspension i have removed, replaced with Powerflex and given the grease nipple treatment, i think i remember Wez doing this but in hindsight i dont think a nipple is really necesary in these bushs as they are so easy to drop down to lube anyway. Last pic, time to sit back and admire your hard work , last corner finished thank god, just need to put the rear ARB back on tommorow and a couple of rear brackets, anyone recommend anywhere in the north west to get it set up ?

that is a very good offer mate, most of these end up in the bin, mine did as its more trouble finding someone who actually wants one

ooooo:eyebrows: you naughty boy Stav 144 leptons peak on the Blitz speed thingy, i hope that was at the Nurburgring

the one i looked at was a Dif controller which looks good value http://www.phase2motortrend.com/difdufanco.html the dif web site at the moment says its closed for maintenance, i also found spal do one now as well http://www.spal-usa.com/fans/automated/accessories/fanpwmV3.html

if you can fit everything in i would also fit another stat and stagger the switching point, i found a really sexy dual point controller for this a while back when i looked, i'll have a look tonight when i get home if your interested (it wasn't the old HKS one you could get)

cant recomend anywhere on line but when i did a battery relocation i went to a local auto electrician who sold me the bits i needed (for peanuts) and offered advice as well

Porterfield R4S, best pads i have had and unlike the R4 are a street pad, taken from their site R4-S – The performance street pad, this pad offers the least dust and squeal of any of the street pads we carry. It is very rotor friendly and will last as long as your stock pad but typically they last a little bit longer.

mate i think your over thinking this, with a T61 you really dont need to start worrying about which diff to use, if its quick acceleration you want i would put your efforts into suspension geometry and tyres, grip is going to be the big decider here not diffs

dont worry about it mate mine does it aswell, i did a search on this years ago and it seems quite common

this looks good, i have thought about doing something with this panel for a while as IMHO the panel (along with the side repeaters) looks like it came straight from the Cortina parts bin and shows the cars age, cant see from the pic but doesn't the heater intake come throught the vented area on the panel, Is there a vent in this new panel

once again the ball joint was spot on so took the arm to work and grit blasted it, before and after

right onto the fronts and i initially got off to a flyer with everything coming apart well, first pic new cam adjusters, second pic i marked all the old adjusters and took a pic as a reference so as not to get confused by any existing marks, even if you are getting all the alignment done straight away i still think its worth trying to get everything as near as possible as you still have to let the suspension settle and get to the garage. Pic 3 my modified Halfords ball joint splitter is doing a sterling job but getting a bit bent now, it only has two more joints to do so hopefully it will last, pic 4 is where it all ground to a halt, the lower arm front adjuster came out fine (the first one yet to come out without grinding) however bussiness as usual as the rear one was stuck solid , the pic shows the best position to get the slitting disk in, however i found it tricky to get the disk in for the joint nearest to the centre of the car so chopped the protruding bolt off then attacked it with my die grinder untill i had enough clearance to get the arm out. This bush also proved a biatch to get out as i thought the rounded part of the inner sleeve was part of the arm, the centre has a "fat" bit in the middle so wouldn't push out easily so i resorted to the a blow torch to get rid of the rubber, once the centre was out i put a hack saw slit in the inner bush then knocked the hell out of it, then waisted the rest of the evening watching England draw to the Yanks

very easy to install a UK/US spec box into a JDM, my JDM has a US gearbox, you just need to swap over the speed sensor, you wont find a better deal than that low miles uk box, i would want some proof of mileage though

why are you changing out of interest

should have a set of eibachs and konis coming off mine by this weekend, pics of ride height in my garage