paul mac

i know you say you want "noisy" but do you realise just how noisy a 4" system is, i had the BL 4" on mine and it lasted about 2hours it was absolutely horrendous, dont forget you will also atract unwanted attension from plod and if you use the car early morning you will p**s alot of people off, you may say "oh sod em" but when the noise abatement order from the local council arrives through the letter box you WILL have to act on it

i think its a bit misleading to think of a superdragger as a true 3" exhaust, yes the rear section is big but where it joins the second cat (or decat pipe) it narrows down to just under 2.5" (61mm from memory), i think this is one of the reasons they are relatively quiet

couldn't agree more thats why i was interested, keep up the good work nothing at all wrong with kit cars, however if you really need me to explain whats wrong with an old Toyota masquerading as a Ferrari i think we better leave it at that

cant help noticing the irony here mate, you "dont want to make it look like something else" then claim to have owned the ultimate in naffness an MR2 dressed up as a Ferrari

looks from the first pic like a little swarf still attached in the collector area i would go over it with a fine tooth comb, you dont want any little bits and bobs flying off at supersonic speed into your exhaust turbine wheel

my 10 year old Galant estate banger has a fag lighter in the back as well as the front, so if i plug 2 in will i get a V16

not far wrong Jon, it hasn't moved since last October

my T61 has been on 5 years now with nearly 40k miles on it

great find Nic and without even a hint of pimping

i used to use an old UK supra site http://www.supras.co.uk/ that had the manuals scanned in but sadly this has passed into history and no longer available, i bought the manuals from a guy in the states but they cost about £50 back when the exchange rate was good , a quick google found this http://www.funky-fto.co.uk/workshop/ and at a 5 spot looks worth a punt, i would ask the question whether it will run on modern XP, Vista etc as i once bought a spares manual that would only run on Windows 98

Kev you are correct in the fact that the water connection does nothing more than heat the valve, there is no welding required, i chopped the whole water connection part off as i was board , you could just cut the pipes off and it would still look neat

i thought i had answered your question, but a picture paints a thousand words this is my old one and the chopped one

no they were left on and the water connections just looped together, however since having the intake off for new throttle bodies I have chopped the water connections off the IACV, i have also blocked the throttle body water connection properly and will do the IACV water connections at a later date, i dont like looped hoses kicking around its just another thing to go wrong

if you dont have access to calibration equipment a quick and easy method is boiling water, unless you live half way up Everest you will get a reliable 97-100 degrees, being in the calibration business in a previous life dont be fooled into thinking expensive necesarily means accurate

if you have done one on a previous car there is nothing to worry about, i found the workshop manual invaluable and the other thing i would advise is to take the main engine radiator out (give it a good flush while your at it), you can then climb in the gap and it makes for a far more relaxed working position, take te bonnet off as well if you have room to store it. I deliberated for quite a while as to whether to use the old rope gag but ultimately decided to do a proper job and i'm glad i did as the valve seats were really overdue a re-grind, buy all the top cam hoses new as well as these will be rock hard

bad luck Matt, never heard of manu going faulty as this must be a function of the ecu, keep us informed of what you find

oh dear, it really is depressing to see any half decent car f**ked up like this, guess as they get cheaper its only going to become more common

fully agree, just wondered if the NA suffers these tools due to lower insurance

out of interest i know the TT enjoys high insurance premiums so keeps away some of this kind of element, i can only presume the NA has a lot lower premiums, is this correct ?

from memory i am sure there is something different about the front of the cams so you cant mix them up

holy cr*p, 4 years, did it come on a rowing boat

nice vid epic fail, should have stuck with a stock bonnet

i love his use of punctuation, i tried reading it correctly and ran out of breath half way through, right were do i start this is my one off toyota supra that you wont find another like this one ! yes indeed, thank f**k for that

no sorry mate, with the cold weather i have been a very lazy boy, will get back on it soon

from reading their site all this "kit" does is up the line pressure it will give short term results but the only proper rebuild kit i know of is from http://www.importperformancetrans.com/toyotaauto.shtml#main the pic illustrates what you get for your $700 compared to some "sleeves" for 99 bucks however at the power levels were about talking here i dont think it will be an issue