Shane

We will be there, Paul sorted the tickets via facebook I believe. Was hoping to have my Weds back from refurbishing for Sunday but no way that's happening in time now, so mine will still be on the scabby wheels and tyres, but we will be there.

Nice, thanks Konrad.

I couldn't find a good looking battery, but found this bird showing how to change one I had a Duracell on in my car for a while, came from Eurocarparts and looked a bit different.

Not an ipad fan then either. Oh and happy birthday for whenever it is, or was, know its about now.

Good call, and have read similar experiences on various BM forums, but sadly not. One of the first things I tried once I realised it wasnt my wheels/tyre or discs was to clamp the flexis one at a time to eliminate the front braking. Also, doesn't explain why there is a slight wobble and why it seems to be improved after being jacked up. Depending on what year you had, the X5 E53 shared the same platform as the RR. But will check for heat this evening after the drive home, just to be sure.

Apologies in advance for the long post. So I have had this issue now for a while, drive on a really smooth road surface and and you can just detect a very slight wheel wobble between 45-55 ish, but very very slight and it just feels like a wheel slightly out of balance. If you brake heavy in that speed range, a vibration, sometimes quite violent, takes over and you have to get it down to below 40 to stop what seems to be almost a resonance affect. I spent all last winter thinking it was just my chunky winter tyres and convinced myself that when I put the summer ones back on all would be fine, sadly not, it made no difference. Lower control arm bushes are known to be an issue causing the violent shaking when braking, as are both the inner and out tie rods. One of the control arms had a crappy ball joint and was replaced and the other one was fine and looks to have been replaced before. I also have just in desperation changed the inner and outer tie rods, despite the old ones havning no play in any of the joints. Also changed both AR drop links while I was at it, brand new brake discs also. Sadly, its still the same. One observation that may be a clue, pretty much each time I have it up on a jack to do something and then take it out afterwards, I convince myself its improved, not cured 100% but improved. As in, the slight wobble is still there in the speed range, but the horrible shaking seems to dissapear, then gradually over a few journeys it returns until it gets to it's former glory. So I am thinking possibly shocks here, but why the wobble at only a certain speed if its the shocks? Maybe there is two faults, one causing the slight wobble, and the shocks causing the horrible shaking resonant type fault once the wobble is there? There is no play detectable in any other joints or the rack. I am thinking now its time to pull the drive shafts but again nothing noticably wrong. Luckily, parts are quite reasonably priced for this, but its all adding up and the real issue for me is that I have limited time and energy to keep pulling it to bits, it's a heavy car to work on and I am getting old, and only just getting over changing the rear wheel bearing on the supra Any suggestions other than to chuck a bucket of water over it and move it on?

Well the under dash port is just parallel wired with the one in the engine bay. So if the 3 or 4 wires that the protocol uses are presented on the right pins on the adaptor and the hand held scanner you have reads from the diag port in the engine bay, then it will work.

There are ways to read OBD1 and glean useful info. My son bought a bluetooth reader for his 1UZ and we tried it on my Supra, worked fine.

Whats that smell? Oh, so many old farts in one place. Hello Graham

Bump. Had one kind offer but unfortunately it had some damage. Bearing and seal condition not important as I will be rebuilding it.

IC103 is the inline Integrated circuit at the bottom of the picture, the capacitor reference is C118. That looks like a 1 ohm resistor and with a resistor of that wattage and age that's minor discolouration. Can't help you with cap function, but would say that its essential you replace with High Ripple Current capacitors. If not you will be dong it twice.

Have passed this on to my Son, Paul887 as he is running 1uz and A340E from a 89 LS400 in his supra. This would be good for a spare or base for a hybrid as he's on about fitting turbo now. He will be in touch I m sure.

One wanted for refurb while mine is still on the car and in use.

Really good write up and well done for sticking with it.

Where in London is that? 90 minutes from home to Belgravia last week during peak time vs 3 hours plus normally, and that's only providing I get an early start. Belgravia, Knightsbridge, Hyde Park Corner as quiet as I have seen in 21 years of commuting. Swiss Cottage and St Johns like a ghost town and only hold up was some ongoing roadworks at Paddington/Edgware road interchange.'

As usual Mike is spot on with this information, let us know how you get on. I have never seen a Mkiv that didn't have a fuel pump ecu.

Just as a point of interest really, the early LS400 1uz had a novel but very effective way of regulation. So in normal conditions the pump voltage ran through a series resistance dropping the voltage to about 9v then when the ecu called for more fuel a set of relay contacts co-located with the resistor bypassed the resistor and gave the pump full voltage. What made me think of it was that your photo looked very similar to the resistance they used.

I tend to use Parcel 2 go and parcel monkey and make a choice from the results provided. In my experience though, even with the bigger companies like fedex, ups etc the insurance isn't worth jack. UPS recently lost a 40 year old "variator" of ours from a property in Paris and say because it was so old and obsolete it had zero value!! Fedex dropped a fibre fusion kit and refused to pay out on the claim as they said the packaging was insufficient, odd seeing it was the original packing the kit came in.

I have a full set of clips and leads available, decent quality, brand new, long leads. £15? Cant post a pic just now as at work and clips are at home.

Deffinitely! If your gauge is telling you that it's not producing boost then get that sorted first. Worth mentioning also that now you have reduced the CR a little, driving with no boost will feel even worse than it would have done with your original CR. So in other words the car is going to feel even slower. Get some boost into your life and you may well be able to forget the whole HG and CR thing.

Exactly this. If your gauge isn't showing boost above atmosphere then your car will feel very different. Before you go too deep into head gasket and CR issues, get to the bottom of why it's not not boosting. You may have a pleasant, easy fix ahead!

I did mention in your other thread that I have some contact details for him, not sure how up to date they are but were certainly good up to about 18 months ago.

I have an email address for Nod, he mapped a piggy back for me previously. Last time I contacted him he wasn't doing much in the way of mapping, or at least the mobile service he used to offer. Let me know if you want it and I can dig it out.

Thats what I was thinking and behind my question. I have not seen any sequential standalone set ups, not to say they don't exist or it cant be done, chuck enough money at it and it could be I am sure, but not sure how well it would compare to the OEM sequential system.

Just out of curiousity really, if you are going standalone with hybrids, presumably not sequential?