Shane

Nice write up and thanks for taking the time. ECUmaster products seem to be of good quality and offer loads for the price. Used 2 of their DET3 devices now and have been very pleased so far. Good to see someone taking a different path to the norm. Looking forward to updates.

Hmm not so sure about Pioneer tbh. Last I knew about Pioneer was that Dixons acquired the right to use the Pioneer badge and they were being made by a Chinese Co., not that much isn't made in China these days. Pioneer themselves pulled out of the TV a long time ago and the last range was the excellent (at the time) Kuro range. I still have a 50" Kuro in my holiday house and its still going strong, but after having a LG Oled for the last few years, I really find it a struggle to watch now. Panasonic and Sony are pretty poor compared to LG and Samsung imo. I oversee the installation of quite a few new large expensive TVs throughout the year as part of my job. We like Samsung and LG, not only do they produce top notch reproduction but tend to be reliable, normally work out of the box, most have DVB sat tuners built in, hook up ok with hideous Crestron systems with CEC control and most of all are normally priced well. My first LG Oled 55 cost £2.5k only 5 or 6 years ago and isn't even 4k, now you can pick up a stonking TV for less than a third of that. Look out for a Samsung and I don't think you will regret it.

Quite an interesting article. https://www.teslarati.com/tesla-model-3-vs-toyota-supra-2020-race/

Nice stand and good to say hi today. We had a great day there, well done to all involved.

Such a catch 22 situation with these original matrix units being so fragile though isn't it.

If its got a sweet coolant smell/taste about it I can't think of anything else it could be I am afraid. Possibly a coolant leak elsewhere that's tracking down to the lowest point maybe. Soak a bit of white kitchen roll with it to give you an indication of the colour. I am not sure if 4 life coolant has the same sweet taste as normal anti freeze, but the simplest way normally is to wet your finger with it and have a taste. I know it sounds a little bizzare.

BMW X5 3.0D Sport. One of the rarer 6sp manuals and on a run returns over 40 mpg. Have to say its been one of the most practical cars I have ever owned.

Many Alfa, Lancia, Ferrari and old school muscle Fords have washer fluid bags. VDO make them. I would be more worred about "silicon" on the tranny sump finding its way into the box.

We have tickets for this and will come and say hi.

Think it depends (like many aspects of the MOT system) on the tester on the day. I've had 2 tests done on different vehicles recently at the same place, both had HID conversions which were not self leveling, one passed without mention and the other didn't.

My son has just put 40 profile 18s on the back of his I was sure it wasnt going to look right when he said he intended to go this way, but after a bit of faff with the arches it looks and drives lovely. So much so I am thinking of going this way myself, I have a brand new set of Vred sessanta 35s to replace the same on the back of mine at the moment, but now I have seen and experienced the 40s I may change direction.

Look like we may be able to make this, will be me in my supra, my missus in her tyoe R and my Son in his excellent V8 Supra. Last time he was there it attracted a lot of attention and they asked him to move it to a prime position apparently.

Was that a PA Crestra? This one is my Brother's

I will take it. PMd

Nice, glad its sorted. Could have done with that photo at the begining. Least you can move on now. Nice photo title Mike well spotted.

Yes re BA3 pin 1, thats a good shout. OK I didnt realise you had bridged out the contacts of the starter relay. Just check for volts between pin 3 and 4 of the relay, if theres nothing, check between 4 and ground. If there is nothing you need to be tracking backwards from pin 4.

OK well thats sort of good news for you. So when you say she was turning the key, just to confirm that was all the way to the cranking position wasnt it? OK do this next, pull the starter relay out and stick your test bulb/meter probe between pin 4 and pin 3 of the relay socket, turn the key to crank. If there is voltage/light go to 1. If there is no voltage/light go to 2. 1) Flip the fuse box over and push your probe into pin 2 of the back of the starter relay socket and the other probe to ground, re-assemble and put the relay back, then try again and let me know what happens. Make sure the battery is disconnected while you are doing this though, and reconnect it only after you have re-assembled. 2) Remove the probe from pin 3 and connect that to the car body and try again. Also, just been thinking about the fact you have swapped looms, did the new loom come from a mannual or auto? Look at the diagram and you will see on a manual car there is a link between BC1 pin 7 and BA1 pin 3, if this isnt there it would give you the symptoms you have. I think, you are not going to see a voltage when cranking on pin 4 of the starter relay and this could well be because the loom is from an auto and you need to link out the starter inhibit circuit. You can do this simply by connecting a link from BC2 pin 3 to BC1 pin 7. Am really curious now, let me know as soon as you have tried.

Simply bypasses the buffer circuit in the odo, some think that code 42 and occasional shift problems is caused by this circuit malfunctioning/dry joints, it could be. Pulses from the speed sensor go to the speedo and then through the odo and from there return to the main and PS ECUs and are used for gear changes and presumably other stuff.

OK, well stick a meter or even a small bulb between B+ pin on the diagnostic port and ground and when the ignition switch is in that position you should see voltage. Also, just to save a bit of time, look at pin 1 of BA3 connector when in cranking position, again between ground and that pin using a meter or small bulb. Forget getting it fired up for now, lets just concentrate on getting it cranking on the key first and then we can go from there.

Keith, use that circuit diagram systematically with multi meter or even a bulb on a bit of wire and you should be able to get it cranking pretty easily. But as a pointer, when you turn the ignition on, thats the point on the key before you hit the final crank position, you should hear both efi1 and efi2 relays click. try this first and then get back to me. Once we have established this we can move on to the next stage. I am only about 45 minutes from you but am really tied up with other stuff at the moment, working long days and often away so its not easy to come over. Possibly could come over for an hour or so one evening. I am sure we can get you a bit further without that though. So first, let me know if both, one or neither of those relays are being pulled please.

Is it cranking now, i.e. is it turning over on the key?

Those numbers mean nothing to me I am afraid. I recently did a 1uz conversion into a 2jz gte, ok not the same I apreciate, but principle the same. Using the 1uz ECU pinout and the details in the Wilbo666 link I was able to wire the whole thing and that was without half of the connectors from both the 1uz and the 2JZ, so assuming you have pinouts for both models you should be able to cross reference what goes where. If you have all the connectors from both cars it should be even easier.

If you have the pimk wire mod you can actually unplug the odo board completely and that would take the odo out of the picture 100%. Out of interest, what is the actual problem you are trying to sort out?

Not sure why they are saying that, as far as I am aware they all had the ecu. This is what gave the car the progressive PS, it measures pulses that come via the speedo and odo and in terms pulls a solenoid on the rack, pull the glove box out and the ecu is on the left. Get the front off the ground, take the wheels off and it should be pretty obvious where the issue is I woiuld have thought. If not then while its up off the ground seperate the ball joints at end of the rack and check you have movement in the the rack and also that the hubs are moving.