jackso11

I should probably put a bost controller on it then, and a guage so I can see where it is boosting to Everything else is set up for bpu but I have never put a boost controller on there so its just been stock boost until this ecu. Deffinately felt different.

Good, i was hoping that would be the case. Getting it MOT'ed on tuesday before doing any bodywork so I can take it out for a good long drive. DO you know what the boost is set to on mines ECU's? and are the boosts set to come in at different values? Its been a while since I drove my supra but it seemed way more pokey at lower revs than I remember while I was driving it around our industrial estate today, first time I have given it more than about 1500rpm in a long time.

My engine has been rebuilt and fired up great first time. I still havent been for a drive in it as it has no mot however it seems to be running really rich. I have put a mines ECU in the car from Keron but other than that it’s been rebuilt all stock but the car starts fine, I run for a few minutes while I move it around my unit, then the next time I go to start it it’s missing a little so I pull the plugs and they are black and covered in carbon. Does it just need a drive so the ECU can sort itself out?

We can do this for you at Autodoc. Drop me a PM

Just buy a new kit, you can get New slim kits for so cheap these days you might as well just start fresh.

Brilliant, thanks chris

My car has been off the road for 4 years with 1/4 tank of fuel in and it fired up just fine to begin with but I haven't finished working on the body work so its only done a few short in and out of the work shop starts, its running shit now as it obviously doesn't like these 1 minute trips and needs a run but I also want to get the fuel out as its most probably stale and not helping. What is the easiste way to get it out? I read use a paperclip across b+ and fp in the diagnostic port in the engine bay but which pipe do I pull? the one going to the fuel filter?

Still got the dash?

I don’t think that is a marmite supra, it’s just a really nice one! Some people may say the colour is a marmite colour but the rest of the car makes up for that with anyone I would think. Very nice

I think the answers you get to this are going to be a little bias on a supra forum....

Tcbparts.co.uk - I just got one from them thatbis near new condition, I think it was £30

We use degreaser, wire brushes, wire wheels, rapid strip wheels, sand paper, scotch pads, solvent wipes and a shed load of elbow grease to prep for this. If the car is particularly muddy underneath we will start with a preassure washer but then we would leave it inside for 24 hours before doing anything else so it drys out. You don't really want to be using a pressure washer to get corrosion off as you will end up having water where you want to put new underseal and there fore trapping moisture in causing further corrosion.

I use similar discs to that called 'Blaze rapid strip' discs. Great for taking stuff off without removing metal. We do underealing at Autodoc for around the £500 +vat mark using Upol Raptor as the underseal. Very hardwearing stuff which we also use to paint the inside of pickup truck bucks. I keep meaning to take photos when we do a car so this week I did one myself and took a load of pictures. I let the before photo at work on the workshop camera but have the during and after photos on my phone so here they are. I will put them in my traders page too. Obviously we can go as far as you want. We discuss with you first what components you want removing if any, if you want anything else coating or masking etc and keep you updated with pictures as the process goes on. During, a lot of rust removed and treated at this stage... And the finished undersealed body.... Also, this coating can be tinted so we can do it the colour of your car or any other colour if required.

I have had Teslas in at Autodoc, brilliant bits of kit. Saying that I haven't driven one more than 100m

I started on a squire stratocaster back in 1994. I would like to say I still had it but a 'friend' who was borrowing it years ago sold it to cash generator to get some money for weed. I found the same model, same year, made in the same place and bought it again recently to go with my others....so I kind of still have it

Baltic blue

Do they come like that? Or black metal with cut outs that you need to stick coloured plastic to the back of?

If you fancy a trip up to Norwich we can sort you out [emoji1360] Bit far though, I have family down there and it is a long old drive.

I just got a new single one from Poland on eBay, about £15 I think

Genuine heated seat switch please

That's a point, I changed my indicators and threw the orange ones away....off to check eBay for some now!

If you can I'm sure you would have a lot of business!

We offer their best of show wax as an option to finish our paint correction service at Autodoc. It gives an incredible shine and deep gloss, very very silky to the touch and excellent water beading. Obviously that is one of the premium options. We also offer Dodo as the more normal option which is also a great wax. I use Dodo myself for my more regular waxes.

The problem with the metal monkey ones is because the numbers and letters are cut out of metal instead of printed on plastic the 'D' and anything else with a centre piece like '0' has got to have bits joining the middle to the outside, hence the 'D' being the wrong style. Still do look good though.

Install micro PCB Red LEDs under each needle. Install 60 5630 LEDs inside for illumination. Requires a lot of fabrication tho. Especially to the under face clear plastic mounts