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Homers '98 RSP TT project


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The reason why it looks so white and foamy is that I drove 15 minutes before with the filled radiator cleaner and, as I said, I had to rinse the head, 
As for the bubbles, I'm sure that has something to do with the air in the system, by all means bleed it..... Heater fan on hot and ventilation on highest setting

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6 hours ago, Big Supes said:

Nice work chaps. It feels nice refreshing the front of the engine with new OE parts. 

Re the UK turbo cooler, I always thought that duct from the bonnet vent was designed to cool cylinder six as that's generally the cylinder that gets hot and takes a beating. It also has the added EGR heat. 

I plan on putting mine back on. 

This might be one for the tech section but my understanding is egr and the ‘scoop’ cooler serve different purposes. 
The scoop cooler was added to EUR cars to pass the more severe type approval regs. Ie higher sustained speeds, eg Germany. JPN cars were limited to 112mph but EUR were 155mph and therefore tougher type tests. That’s where the scoop came in, to keep cyl 5 & 6 cooler during long high speed runs. In my situation this really isn’t applicable as I’m not likely to go above 100mph (younger me would laugh at that!). Besides, the hood scoop on my car is not functional so it doesn’t work anyway.

Now EGR is a bit different and unless all the reading I’ve done on this is incorrect we have a different understanding 🙂

From what I’ve read here and on other sites is the EGR is an emission requirement but interestingly it has a side effect - it LOWERS the EGT’s as some of the heat is bled off to the intake. There was a huge discussion on Supraforums years ago about it. One of the big companies back then did some testing with it kept and removed and found that EGT’s were significantly lower on 5 & 6 with it kept in place.


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So Toyota Northampton turned out it be absolutely hopeless. Despite many reminders they still haven’t ordered my parts after over a month!! I’m going to have to find another dealership locally. This means we will have to do some some temporary fixes to get the car running at the weekend.

Started on a few of the pre-start checks today. Looks like these plugs are not reusable then! 344C03C9-6619-486F-B195-79302B509894.thumb.jpeg.34013963de574c5bde54302a08269c64.jpeg

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@evinX and I ended up going to see Keron (Extreme Performance) today to get parts and have a 4 hour long chat with the man 😂 Got some really great advice that helped make sure we’re on the right path with the car. He’s confident the ABS will work and our fuel pump issue is caused most likely by a broken wire from the old Clifford alarm. Basically everything should work if we’ve done it right. Massive thanks to him for his time and extremely valuable help! 

I also spent rather a lot of money on some new parts, some of which I don’t need soon but I didn’t realise they’re discontinued and Keron has most of the last stock. 

@Big Supes Keron gave some more insights to the EGR system and pointed out some issues the US forums didn’t discuss. Primarily ‘pollution’ of the breather system and cam area (most UK engines he’s seen have heavy carbon deposits that none of the non-egr cars ever get). He highly recommended I get rid of it so that’s what I’ll be doing at a later stage.

Tomorrow is hopefully startup day.

Some items here are potentially running out of new stock: E.g hood latch and bumper supports.38498BC5-31A8-42E6-A823-B66213D6E0F9.thumb.jpeg.28c4d5318c32f94607f3f5cbe58cf4f3.jpeg

Possibly one of the last new rear crash bars. Not a cheap item but didn’t want to miss out:


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Got her running today, but the old issue is still there…

Work completed today:

1) Replaced the cracked water hose at the back of the block (very common issue) and repaired/reinstalled the rest of the lines to the heater matrix

2) ECV line has been cleaned of rust with detox gel and then painted. It’s now reinstalled.

3) Replaced the upper rad pipe with a new one.

4) Fitted new battery terminal, new battery, battery tray and new battery clamps.

5) Put approx 2 gallons of E5 in the car (turns out this might not be enough!)

6) Fitted new spark plugs 

7) We couldn't get the FMIC to work with the IC pipes I have so we put a stock side mount in for now. Will sort these out at a later date.

8. Tested the electrics in the car. Most things appear to working, just some weirdness with the rear lights so we’ll go through that tomorrow.

9) Filled the clutch master and bled the clutch line.

10) 1st problem: the fuel pump is running without even the key in the ignition 😂 There is definitely something wrong with the pump wiring so we’ll look at that tomorrow!

11) Test started the engine. It’s running but is overfueling. This is the same issue I had years ago. We will go through the recommended steps tomorrow to check the temp sensor signal, crank fuel enrichment isn’t triggering, there’s enough fuel in the tank, etc, etc.

We did find one line I’d failed to cap off (pressure line to charcoal canister which was causing it to stall) but this didn’t stop the overfuel.

Not many pics today as there wasn’t much to see.

Side mount in:


Pretty much complete here now:





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11 minutes ago, Tyson said:

Lots of blood sweat and tears going into this! Great work and hats off to @evinX for co-building her back up.

Thanks mate, it really has been a pleasure to work with @Homer who has a lovely family to, i have also learnt so much with this build

So far were trying to figure out 2 main issues the car has had for 9 years so any input would be very helpful. Ill let homer to the explaining on that 

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So Kev and I started on the checks again today. There are two issues, both of which were present last time we started the car 7 or so years ago.

1) The car is overfueling. At first a poor maf sensor, complete lack of IC piping and numerous vacuum leaks was suspected as the cause. However all that has been replaced/fixed and it’s still the same. The plugs we just put in all show the signs of fouling starting and it’s the same amount on all plugs; ruling out stuck injector(s).

2) Fuel pump ECU is not working. FP ECU has been replaced and pump and power wiring has been tested and working (hence being able to start it), but with the fuel Ecu in it won’t turn the pump on. It’s not as simple as doing the 12v mod as the signal to turn on isn’t there at all.

Thread up in tech about it here: http://mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?298998-Fuel-Pump-issue&p=3762703#post3762703


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Big update today - it’s now running properly 😎🥳 As always massive thanks to @evinXfor sticking with it even when things don’t go to plan and it gets frustrating! Also really appreciate @keron spending so much of his time on the phone today helping us go through potential issues. The man is a legend and we would have struggled without his extensive knowledge 😎

- Issue with fuel pump Ecu is fixed

- Issue with overfueling is fixed

There were numerous fixes done and probably a combination of them resolved the fuel pump issue. Essentially it’s now returned to oem and operates in a normal manner (no dangerous overrides!)

We also found an ancient speedo converter hidden away that seems to have been causing the overfuel. Kev removed it, patched the wires and right away the car ran perfect. Keron mentioned he’s encountered this issue before when old speed converters develop faults.

One additional thing that threw us was the car was short of fuel in the tank 😅 I put 2 gallons in thinking it was enough but after another gallon it no longer cuts after 10 seconds. Again thanks Keron for pointing out an obvious oversight!

Tomorrow it’s time to tidy up all the wiring and finally put the rest of the car together.

Ancient speedo converter:


Couple of video shorts, there’s just a first decat pipe and no exhaust so it’s a bit loud.



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Wow I’m so glad to see this up and running. Haven’t been on the forum for a little while now but I always hoped this project would get underway. Has really put a smile on my face! You’ve done some spot on work gents and should be really proud of yourselves.

im pretty sure that dodgy garage is under completely new management now and as far as I know one of the ex forum members doesn’t even work on cars anymore which says a lot. 

either way it’s in good hands now and hopefully I’ll see the old girl again one day!


I’ve got some random parts lying about so ill have to take a look and see if there’s anything useful! 😅

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hi mate, very, very well done and congratulations, so many errors found and eliminated, electrics must always be top, there must be no compromises, already got an experience from the friend, where the dashboard burned during the test drive.

and please remember, do this flush with coolant and engine

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So not too much to update, just a lot of very small jobs completed.

1) Rear lights are rewired and now fully work. 
2) fuel pump cover is on, boot foam is in and started fitting the rear plastics

3) Tried to install some new front seatbelts but ran into a problem. They’re aftermarket and don’t quite fit right. Will try again next weekend, otherwise will just have to use the slightly tired ones that came with the car.

4) all dash wiring is tidied up and dash panels are fully fitted. Little things like fitting the ashtray light bulb are also done.

5) Fuel pump Ecu wiring tidied up and Ecu fitted to the oem point.

Got dozens more jobs like this to finish so will get on with them in the week.

One thing I’m struggling to find is the seatbelt plugs that go in the middle of the rear seats. If anyone has these please let me know 👍


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Can I make a recommendation on seatbelts, get your OEM ones re-webbed by this chap. I bought some eBay specials to replace mine and they were frankly awful. The re-webbed ones I’m now using are bang on and I was even able to get red webbing so really happy with how they turned out. Not sure which aftermarket ones you got but I’d stick to factory units personally as mine were always jamming and even started to fray at the edges after minimal use. 



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Thanks @Peter P, I will take a look 👍 I wasn’t aware this was an option so appreciate your input.

I don’t know the name of the aftermarket ones as they were provided by Kev, however he’s had the same in his car for a while and they seem pretty good so far.

One thing I didn’t like was that the oem bolt location wasn’t able to be used so unless that can be solved I’ll be going back to the tired oem ones and get them refurbed as you suggest. Unfortunately new belts and buckles are discontinued from Toyota so aftermarket or repair are the only options now.


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We had another good day on the car today. She’s now drivable 😎 Thanks again to @evinX, we did it mate! It only took 3 months 😂 Honestly, it’s such a relief that it’s now driving and 95% complete.

1) TB Devs chassis brace is in and looks beautiful!

2) Brakes are bled. We had an issue with the front brakes as we keep getting bubbles. There’s no leaks and everything is tightened up so we’re not sure what’s going on. The callipers came off a working car only a couple of months ago so I doubt the seals have gone on them.

3) 1st decat pipe has been removed and a stock cat fitted along with oem gaskets. Thanks @Big Supesfor the great deal on this! You’ve once again kept this project going with the UK spec parts! The best part is the exhaust now lines up. It appears the decat pipe that came with the car was not made correctly…

4) Exhaust is on

5) OEM seatbelts are fitted and all the interior panels are installed. Boot area also completed and even oem tool kit put in. Just need to make a hardboard floor and make a boot carpet.

6) There’s a whine coming from the power steering pump. It wasn’t doing this when the car first arrived so we suspect it needs bleeding. Fluid levels are fine.

7) The remaining fuel and brake line supporting clips are fully fitted and the shields installed.

8. The car is running rich and cutting out once it’s warmed up. We think this might be due to the absence of the 2nd O2 sensor. Since it’s a series 2 shell there isn’t even the wiring for it, so we’re going to have to figure out how to add a bypass.

9) Seats are installed, just need to buy a few more bolts as I didn’t have as many as I thought.

Next steps are decide on which headlights I’ll use (black pre-facelift or UK). Pickup the rear bumper I bought and fit it. Fit the side pods and hockey sticks that should be on the way here soon. Order a full new set of tyres. Fix numerous small things…









One of the IC pipes popped off on the latter half as they weren’t connected up properly. Got a bit too enthusiastic with the throttle!



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On 10/1/2022 at 8:47 PM, Homer said:

2) Brakes are bled. We had an issue with the front brakes as we keep getting bubbles. There’s no leaks and everything is tightened up so we’re not sure what’s going on. The callipers came off a working car only a couple of months ago so I doubt the seals have gone on them.

6) There’s a whine coming from the power steering pump. It wasn’t doing this when the car first arrived so we suspect it needs bleeding. Fluid levels are fine.

Good job lads, few thoughts on the above.

2; did you install SS hoses? iirc there is a bit of the stock hardline that needs to be removed/deburred, maybe this needs to be done if changing lines anyway.

6; a change of PS fluid and a bleed sorted mine. Think i cleaned the mesh filter too.


Edited by TuneR (see edit history)
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