Dnk

Think how much abuse i get now, i have a convertible na BMW for ***** sake Sticks and stones and all that It could be far worse, people on here paint their cars orange and pink

As far as i'm aware you cant get the outer seals on their own from Toyota, you have to buy a seal kit that does both front calipers in which you get the outer dirt covers the inner piston seals the bleed nipple covers the outer seal retainer rings a pack of lithium grease Just give Steve Manley a call, he wont need part numbers or chassis numbers, just tell him you want a seal kit for the uk front calipers. I think the kit is approx £60

From the sound of it unless the fronts have been rebuilt which if ones rusty is very doubtful the outer seals will be on their way out as they could be nearly 20 years old. If they get a small hole or split in them then you'll suffer the pistons seizing and major expense. A vacuum bleeder is the easiest way to bleed the brakes, also when you change the rear discs back of the handbrake shoes which will make it much easier to get the disc off.

The only thing we took off was the upper rad cowl to let the fan blade go a bit higher than the top of the cowl

Did mine on a ramp with an engine support holding it up, its a wriggle but can be done

What brakes do you have ? First thing i'd do unless they have been changed is replace the outer piston seals and slider pin seals if you have the smaller j spec brakes, if these are the original seals then that's the first job to do as they will be on the verge of failing if not already. This will save you a lot of hassle with seizing calipers in the future. New brake pins is a good idea and when you bleed the brakes be very careful nipping up the bleed nipples as old j spec calipers are prone to crack if done up too much A vacuum bleeder is also the way to go when bleeding the system and unless its been done recently i'd do a full brake fluid change

Done

£15 for postage ? Try your local Toyota dealer mate

Yes Toyota can get them no problem and there not that much for genuine parts. It would pay to check if the NA uses the washers with seals fitted to them and if so replace these at the same time.

The seals go rock hard with age/mileage so for what they cost just replace them.

47 divided by 11

The list so far, if you would mind putting your full names down next to you Forum name i would be very grateful to make things easier for the gatehouse tomorrow 1. Viper - David Nicol 2. Spikedjack 3. DaveR 4. Littler 5.Justin Bieber -- Adam Knight 6. Josh 7. Neil 8. Dude 9. Nicholas 10. Thomo8568 11. GazB 12. black_widow87 13. JOSH 14. dunk -- Andrew Dunk Shaw 15. Sukhy

Far too many things it could be so i'd just get it on a ramp and go over every nut and bolt all the suspension bushes inc drop links, arb mounts, sub frame bolts, diff carrier, etc etc Knackered dampers can knock when they fail so worth a look at those too

Its worse than that its an NA

If i had to be critical the only thing that could make it any better in my eyes would be to fit a set of 19" Equips in silver with polished lip but other than that its gorgus

Doesn't get much better as far as mkiv's go

Stock Toyota work just fine

Speak to the specialist insurers that do classic or limited mileage policies Theres quite a few and a quick search on the forum should bring up lots of info

Mot tests yes but don't recall anything covering service history

Who's going on Sunday ?

Just to add before i did anything else i'd fit a new rad cap from Toyota and top up the expansion tank and see if you still have the problem. Does the heater blow out hot air on the max hot setting ?

Beat me to it Welcome Claire

Get a sniff test done, its a quick and cheap test and should show exhaust gas in the coolant. If it is head gasket failure then you need to get the head checked in case its been seriously overheated, if its warped over 0.1 mm its as good as scrap

I'd personally rather go and try a few on than buy online. Check the date stamp on whatever you buy, its usually on the chin strap