Dnk

To be blunt if you want more hp/torque you need to go tt or na-t

Tiffs not in this one http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_4m5lItAQrU

Hose pipe hooked up to the hot tap will get a bigger area warmer quicker then use a heat gun to help as you go, dont get carried away as the sticker comes off and keep the panel at a touchable temp

Its 20 years old tech, the new dsc systems are awesome and could save your life one day. I agree i'd rather drive the car but for normal rd use these systems will save many a driver, even good ones that can drive

The op's problem is inexperience driving an old rwd car. Simplez I've driven on crap tyres in the wet and on diesel in a mkiv and never binned it but then i'm an awesome driver with Ken Block like car control and fly like reactions

I can't find the 5th gear test i watched on the tv a couple of nights ago, they did it on a runway showing the new DSC systems working on normal tarmac, Tiff tried his hardest to lose control and the DSC saved the day every time.

This seems to show what modern electronics can do quite nicely

I think you need to get it checked again. What voltage does the battery have in it when the problem started again ? You have an earth problem, alternator problem or a drain on the system thats emptying the battery which needs properly checking.

Not so sure that's true these days

First thing to try as its nice and cheap is fit a new o/e rad cap

Fully synthetic Mobil 1 10w40

Hi and

Check the wheel nuts are tight, i was called out to a car that had this problem last year and 2 studs were missing and the other 3 nuts were loose Also check the tyre is okay all over, no bulges etc, I'd be surprised if its wheel balance though unless its miles out and at such low speed as that usual comes in after 50 mph and would have to be bad on the rear to cause major vibration but worth checking Then check wheel bearing, drive shaft, prop shaft, suspension arms etc etc

Indeed

Personally i'd go the whole hog and build a fresh engine

I have no idea what MP grease is other than as you say multi purpose, its purely for fitting purposes so you don't damage the seal when you fit it onto the crank.

Sorry it wont let me upload the pdf here for some reason. All you need to do is apply a little MP grease to the seal lip from what i can see

Doesn't mention anything in the WSM, the seal obviously does the sealing page EM 84 in the Engine mechanical pdf

Whats your future plans power wise ?

Surely you just make sure everything is nice and clean and replace the seal, i wouldn't be using any sealer. I'd give Lee at SRD a call or CW

I'd personally want a matched set

Its crazy what the bonnets sell for, a j spec is approx £900 and the sound deadening is nearly £200 new from Toyota.

Plenty of j spec bonnets have the UK spec scoop fitted so it having the scoop is neither here nor there. If its a genuine UK bonnet it will be pretty obvious as the holes in it where the airflows through will be pressed out during its manufacture and not cut out by someone afterwards. The scoops parts can be bought individually, the metal under plate in Guigsys photo is to direct the airflow to the snorkel which bolts to the side of cylinder head, this has to be removed or modified if you fit a strut brace A better picture would help of the underside but it does look like its been pressed out to me rather than cut out

The ball joint covers can be replaced but i'm pretty sure the ball joints are a no go. To be honest if there not designed to be changed bite the bullet and buy new arms as its just not worth it in my opinion.

Beat me to it