Dnk

Just being honest with you, all mkv's are between 11 & 20 yrs old now so be careful and don't buy one just because its looks nice and seems to drive ok. To give you a scary scenario, if you bought a mkiv for £4k you'd spend more just replacing the suspension arms if you bought new genuine parts from Toyota !!

I new i'd forget something

Not for very long though if you actually use the 600

Through my experience these are a few things that get overlooked and are also hard to inspect properly if not impossible when viewing a mkiv. Brake calipers are prone to seizing due to the outer seals getting old and splitting, this is on both the smaller (j spec sliding calipers) & (larger uk spec opposed piston calipers) Brake & fuel pipes corroding especially at the rear where their fairly difficult to check properly Radiators, heater matrix, ac rad, UK spec diff cooler, SMIC's on turbo cars Seizing and or worn suspension bushes, can be costly to fix as they can be very difficult to remove and OE parts are expensive. (rear upper arm = £450 each) Dampers will be tired Front cross member under the radiator is a common area to suffer from corrosion. Front crank seals seem to be a common problem these days. Crank pulleys splitting in two, there a bonded harmonic damper Any rubber hoses will be very tired in the engine bay but not to bad to replace with silicon or hose from local car spares shops Valve stem seals, cam cover seals. Coil pack connectors on turbo cars

Buying any of these cars is a risk these days due to their age, even nice clean ones will cost you money unless quite a few parts have been replaced

You can run it without the aux belt for a few minutes, it doesn't drive the oil pump, just the water pump, power steering pump, alternator and air con

Agreed and a thorough inspection is a must before you start throwing good money at a 20 yr old supra, inc imports

The cross member the rad sits on is an easy fix to be honest, if you really wanted to do it on the cheap just cut the rot out and weld in a new section. Or you can fit a new one, there not that much for a brand new cross member, about £70 or there abouts and do able in a day if you have a 2 post ramp and know what your doing

You can also get a very cheap sniff test done to check if there is exhaust gas in the coolant.

Sell it and by a FWD or 4WD

Rob Mitchell is the man to speak to at Darnley Auto Works

http://www.readyrads.co.uk

Does it work like that as the car could add up to a massive amount if it was say in the worst case scenario and was scrap, was stolen non recovered or stripped Well that's what i was told when i asked about a like for like policy on my car and it would go back to a what's it worth battle

Sorry i don't understand what you mean

Wouldn't you rather of had an agreed value policy seeing as your car is a bit special

Agreed and great value for money with the o/e discs being only £120 for a pair of fronts. From what i can see the DBA 5000 look like their over $800 or £500 +

Hope your dropping a V8 in it with some power like an LS vette unit

Unless your on track there an expensive upgrade in my opinion that you really don't need.

Thats not very good, its one thing modding the shim but having to grind away the pads is pretty poor. I've always stuck with OE discs and never felt the need to use anything else. A good heads up though to anyone else using these or are about too

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?268743-Suspension-Setup&highlight=geometry+settings

Faulty crank pulley perhaps, was it a genuine Toyota one or a copy. I can't see how a good one would fall apart unless it wasn't true on the crank, in which i mean the centre bore is out of true with the rest of the pulley Toyota part should have 1 year warranty on it i think

Forgive me if i missed it but did the pulley seperate like they do when they get old or did the whole thing come off the crank ?

Have you checked there is coolant in the expansion tank, when cold it should be approx half full

The system self bleeds so pointless emptying it. Just top up the rad to the neck and also fill the expansion tank to approx half way. As the coolant heats up its forced out into the expansion tank and is then drawn back in as it cools. Can't see it being a partially blocked top rad pipe, have you checked the pipe from the rad to the expansion tank isn't blocked Did you fit an OE rad cap from Toyota ?

Welcome and enjoy your trip, fingers crossed the weather is better than whats been forecast