Tricky-Ricky

Aftermarket filter, strut and BOV is all i can see the rest looks std to me.

If it was putting out enough pressure there would be oil in the catch tank, I would wash or change the filter and see how long it takes to do the same, the other option is to make a cap for the tank vent and run a tube to a peak hold low pressure gauge and see if there actually is any pressure...which I doubt because given what you have said it just oil vapour, I did some exstasive teasts on the effects of modifing the std breathing system and could get no appreciative readings.

A healthy engine should not produce any pressure in the crankcase/head, a compression test will only tell you that static ring seal is good, the rings could be passing pressure under load/boost, is the tank full? and if so is it oil or water/oil emulsion? Have you removed and blocked the idle/low throttle breather that has the one-way valve in it from the cam cover to the plenum? if this has failed the crankcase will pressurise with boost pressure.

Seem to be mostly ignored here in Norfolk, biggest pain on some of the big roundabouts with lights, really pisses me off!

I had one from the parking company Lidl employ because I went over their 90 min limit by 10 mins, so I just emailed the CEO and kicked off and told them what I thought, and would cease to use their shop...never heard another word from them.

I have just decided to not go agreed value with my bike as its a classic custom, and the insurance company say they will always try and fix with std parts, but the sheer lack of them will cause big problems, so they will have to do what they can, and for complete loss there are only whats on the market and the prices are pretty high, so paying over the odds for older cars bikes seems pointless.

If the cams are installed and timed correctly despite being interference there should be no issues with measuring and sorting the correct clearance shims of the non-loaded valves, just like you would with a non-interference cam.

Only ever seen one cam belt break and that was a diesel on startup, which is when there is the most force on the valve system, belts are far more likely to break on idle and low RPM than high due to the valve train loadings anyway.

I am inclined to agree, but I strongly suspect that if it where to be the case it would likely spell the demise of this forum, which was kind of my point, lots of car and other forums that are not subscription based are really struggling, much like here they are becoming like ghost towns, just the odd tumbleweed rolling through.

I doubt that recent thread about paying to remain a member did the forum any favours either, revealed some rather elitist attitudes, no wonder people go off to face ache etc.

Recommended oil grade for std engine is a 5w30 most BPU and higher mileage engines use a 10w40, personally I would only use a 5 or 10w50 on an extremely worn or very highly stressed motor IE pushing high BHP, running much higher viscosity oil just adds to the stress on the oil pump and pressure relief valve.

More than likely made on the same production line as many other filters...just gets a different name.

Run what plugs you like as long as they are the correct heat range for your engine tune, the only difference between copper and iridium is service life.

Mines ECU where generally mapped for mild engine upgrades, IE decat free flow exhaust, and perhaps intake mods, but some where specifically mapped for a particular engine, so in theory, it should be fine as most where generic, but it could be a special.

Hello Mark, still got the Supra then, I used flux for a while, but they got too dear, so went elsewhere, can't remember who but most use markerstudy as the underwriters for modified cars so will probably be down to them changing their format. Strangely I am back with Flux for my bike insurance as they were the cheapest by far.

Have you pulled the plugs for a look, could be mixture is too rich or weak, what grade are you using? presumably, this has only just started happening? Has anything been done recently?

Just remove the actuator and wire it in the open position.

To start with check the ECU coolant temps sensor resistance, hot start running will be bad if this has failed, secondly, PFC will only learn idle control, and it also will not be able to lean warm idle without the std lambda sensor.

No worries, i was just concerned that you where fixed on a stainless intercooler, which I have yet to see one advertised at any sort of reasonable price, besides any stainless IC would be a fair bit heavier than the usual alloy, as I said there is nothing wrong with a budget IC but as others have said fitment can be a challenge with some, the same apply s to pipework so choose carefully, unless you want the bling look of polished alloy pipework then the std is adequate for most applications, especially if you choose a CW side mount, and at the power levels your looking at, I wouldn't be looking at going OTT, especially if your not intending to go single tube at a later date, Plug choice with PBU is one grade colder, the type is up to you if you don't intend to change them often than go for iridium, otherwise go for copper.

Where are you seeing stainless steel intercoolers? they are usually made from alloy to save weight and money, I have used cheaper ones, but the design and construction is what makes a good intercooler, most are bar and plate which is OK but you preferably want one with internal finning which makes them far more efficient, the more expensive ones will have a smaller internal volume, and better design of end tank to cut down on lag, If you just stick on a large IC and large pipework you will introduce lag into the system and make the turbo work harder, not what you want with BPU, if you actually state your goals instead of just ignoring questions asked you may get more suitable advice.

Unless you're intending to go single turbo and pushing 700bhp + there is no advantage in larger pipework, std is quite adequate, don't forget that due to boost pressure the pipework is not restricted to the flow limitations of N/A breathing.

No gain from BPU with a larger intercooler or pipework, the std if in reasonable condition will run up to around 500-550bhp no problem, I ran a single turbo setup for a while on the std unit at 500BHP.

I have never known a failed ECU coolant temp sensor to make the the ECU run things that rich, so the plugs are black and shooty, its usually results in hard hot start because of the over rich mix, and although fuel pressure reg being faulty, again I wouldn't expect it to be that far out, my money is on the Mines ECU.

If they are chrome plated, heating them won't turn them black, and in any case, if you do heat them they could end up being softer, or brittle depending on the method used.