Tricky-Ricky

Looks pretty much as i would expect, lots of data points around 14-15 AFR as the ECU tries to keep fuelling at stoic, and the odd 11 when you go onto full boost, the Lean spikes are when the throttle is closed + no fuel.

Here you go! http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid201/pee88f43b298cff387f62026a285080c3/effd76ec.jpg

Looks pretty normal to me, i have Innovate, but there appears to be no time scale on your plot??

I have an aftermarket front bumper that has MR2 indicators, i still haven't heard back from Ultraleds about a suitable bulb, so if i don't hear back from them soon, i might try SAGP method, but i'm not sure how long the halogens are going to last subject to constant flashing.

I have put mine in the down pipe just under the turbos, as i'm not keen on the idea of the sensor failing and may well take out the turbine! if you do want to fit the sensor into no1 or no6 exhaust runner, i would be inclined to take the whole lot off in order to do this, as swaf that is left in the runner or turbo is not a good thing! there are people that advocate drilling and tapping the runners whilst the engine is running i am also a rather dubious of this practice, as you cannot be sure that all of the swaf is expelled! and i certainly wouldn't want metal going through my turbos:(

I'll have it Jurgen! If you can tell me the winning lottery numbers for Wednesday!

I'm hanging onto it for now mate.

Decided to remove my bonnet lining due to my alarm sounding like a toy town job! until it went off in my ear when the bonnet was open:blink: also hoping that it will help keep down under-bonnet temp to! at least i will be able to hear the alarm now!

Oh well! that was a Little disappointing! got some V160 and changed my oil at the weekend, think the old stuff had been in there for a while as it had turned a slightly metallic grey/red, but no metal bits or anything to worry about, but unfortunately it has not cured the slightly baulky change from 1st to second:( still produces a bit of a clank from the drive-train, the rest of the changes are marginally better, but on the whole no big change! oh well maybe i expect too much of the getrag box.

Got mine finished and fitted, i think it turned out OK! http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid204/p4f7198ec9ee7140ff899a41c13e8c137/ef4ee4cb.jpg

Thats interesting Paul, as i bought an ultimate for my S14 and found it caused an ignition fault, i also tried a friends from the same batch and it caused the same fault! so it either had to be the ultimate or the cable, got fed up trying to sort it and sent it back in the end! hope it was a couple of bad units as i would like to try it on the Supra later.

I have an older type HKS SSQV fitted, and it seems to dump without showing positive pressure on the boost gauge! i have tried screwing in the adjuster to the limit, but it still seems to dump to easy! can i fit another spring to stop this? should i strip and rebuild?

Quote: Originally Posted by Sub_Culture In fairness, a Supra handles like poo anyway, but you have to remember, this is a GT cruiser type car, not a lightweight, flickable track car. It all depends on what you want from it. Well after owning a Nissan 200SX S14 with 335BHP and full suspension set up coilovers etc, i can honestly say that i can get the Supra round corners faster than i could the S14! not as flickable! but it does feel better in the bends.

Got put off by the pricing and the prospect of not a good fit, or that most are made to take 60mm gauges, so i bought a cheap Ebay pod expecting it not to fit, and i wasn't disappointed! so i thought i would try cutting the pods of and fiberglassing them to my A pillar! I then found that the A pillar plastic is not of the type that resin will stick to! so i decided to use the pillar to lay some fibreglass over and then mould the pods on, so creating a double A pillar pod that is a good fit and can be attached with glue or self tappers. The colour is not final as i need some more matt paint, so hopefully i should be able to match the pillar! http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid204/pfe86825725948e309e837c09fdd2e179/ef58d769.jpg http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid204/p5a462dc931c8d012e0b4bd4584cd468a/ef58d712.jpg

Another tip, get yourself a cheap 1HP electric motor, you can pick them up S/H for next to nowt, and get an adaptor for the polishing mop, i have had one for the last 8 years and its still going strong! polished quite a few bits, but it is a real PINTA! and if you want to polish anything with lots of lugs/odd shaped bits you will need something like a Dremmel or better! Having done a fair bit of polishing i can quite understand why people charge what they do for polished bits! especially things like throttle bodies etc!

If only i had the spare cash!

Theres some urethane/plastics that Fiberglas wont stick to, so it might be a good idea to try a test patch first! let it harden and then flex the bumper and see if it cracks away.

Looks very nice! always thought that the Nissan colour would look good on a Supra.

Well best place is in one of the manifold runners before the turbo, but i am a bit weary of the sensor failing and destroying the turbo, so mine will be in the down pipe as close after the turbo as possible, but you need a rough idea of what temps people are getting before the turbo, to work out the temp difference, its usually about 150c less.

Just a thought, where is the sensor located? in the turbo or after it?

Its more during the fast run/peak boost, that you need to monitor, but if its a peak hold meter then 700 is fine, its when it gets to 950 that you need to start looking into it.

LOL you think that's odd, but you should have seen me yesterday, i'm trying to get the bottom rad hose off so i have one arm down one side of the fan and the other down the other both trying to hold a pair of pliers onto the clip to get it off! to achieve this i'm got my legs spread and i'm leaning over the front with my face pressed against the cam belt cover, when a neighbour walks passed and says you do love that car don't you! pissed myself! never occurred to me what it looked like!

What size is it? M10 can't see it being 160ftlbs! M14 min for that!

A lot of people have picked it up from the bike world, castor oil= castrol R was used in racing bikes years ago, and a lot of people stick some in their fuel to get the nice smell (once smelt never forgotten!) i have smelt it in a few cars lately.

Some people who have no concept of what it does to your engine stick some castrol R in their petrol! smells great but gums up the valves and inlet something awful!