Tricky-Ricky

Looks real nice good job mate! and the despoilerd look is:cool:

This is more of a gripe than a plea for help ( input is welcome though!) wired up my blue emanage harnesses a couple of weeks ago, but only fitted and programmed it today after my decat, now i am no stranger to emanage! and i'm dam sure the connections are fine (double checked!) and after forgetting to reset the injector correction, idled like a truck! it started and idled ok, but i'm seeing an error code 24 which is no injector pulse on no 4 injector and the wiring seems fine, but its to dark now to go through it with a meter to see if there's a dry joint! but i also have error light on the dash up as well and a very slight misfire occasionally as i bring the rpm up! its bloody annoying as i have never had any problems with emanage before:(

This is kind of ironic! i'm on my way to get my decat fitted this morning and i get pulled in for a VOSA check! not sure if they checked my emissions as i didn't see them, good job it wasn't on the way back;) Anyway glad i got Kwikfit to do the decat, as the nuts and studs where a real pain to get out! (hung around to watch and help) threads needed retapping, and it took some heat to get the dam things out, and once it was all on bar the rear pipe we found that the decat pipe hit the tie bars that go under the prop shaft:( had to get a fair bit of heat and swing on it to get it to run at a sensible angle, anyway later this afternoon i decided to put the colder plus in, and plug in and program the emanage, (did the wiring a couple of weeks ago) might of guessed it wouldn't go smoothly! after firing it up and finding i had missed resetting the injector correction 19. odd AFRs i then found i'm getting an error code on the emanage and the ECU plus a slight misfire! bugger! more of this in technical section.

Front driver side 21" spoiler, passenger side 20" and i think the rear is 20" to.

I have never primed a turbo before fitting, and never had any premature wear or problems, as there is no real loading on start up, and the oil reaches it pretty quick i can't see any real problem, i know most turbos run plain bearings but there is a film of oil which is fine until the pressure builds up, and i certainly wouldn't worry about BB turbos, you only have to think about an old type two stroke engine, they run on a 40 to 1 oil petrol mix and the mains are usually roller or ball bearing and they ARE under load! and they survive.

I have welded in a bung into my decat pipe in the same position as the CW one, after experiences with overheat on my old S14 i thought i'd play safe! oh and if you use the same place, then if you pull the carpet away from the transmission tunnel on the passenger side you will find a blanking grommet that is just in the right position, the hole is just big enough for the sensor and you can punch a hole and slit the grommet so the lead fits just right.

AFAIA all fuel/boost cut defencers work in the same way the allow you to clamp the voltage of either the MAP sensor or the MFA to a point just below the threshold voltage of the ECUs cut point, so if the cut point is say 4.3 volts = say 0.8 BAR and you take the boost to 1.1 BAR = 4.8 volts, then the ECU is not supplying enough fuel for the increased boost/airflow as its clamped at the lower voltage, so ideally you really need some way of achieving extra fulling IE increased fuel pressure which works to a degree, or a way of fudging the injector signal SAFC etc! Having said this it does not seem to bother some vehicles as some seem to overfuel quite a lot near the std fuel/boost cut voltage, so its fairly safe, but it does not apply to all!

Looks a similar idea to the Innovate XD-1 gauge.

I know Aquamist did have a lot of issues with their pumps a couple of years ago, but afaik the design was changed, but the main killer of pumps is inadequate filtering and using tap water instead of deionised.

Just to get anywhere near that figure you are going to need some serious engine work! and throttle bodies as a minimum, and you may need NOS on top of that! so super strong internals, and i do hope the exhaust you have is a 4" tip! if its the pipework diameter you will loose power/torque! you want under 3" for N/A or it won't pull until late rpm.

I would stop driving it until you get it sorted! you could also suffer from bore wash, where the amount of petrol going into the chamber washes the oil film off the cylinder walls and you end up with cylinder and ring damage, not to mention the oil being diluted with petrol!

Is that a wideband lambda? if so have you ever had any overheat problems?

LOL this guy must be having a right chuckle:d sorry! yeah just give him a brake test! might be able to buy yourself a Supra from your insurance claim! if hes going to sit 6" off your bumper what does he expect;)

Aquamist pumps are designed to run up to 50% mathanol, but there is no point going beyond a 50% mix as it actually defeats the object of water injection, and will raise combustion temps.

The "misting" is down to the jet design not the pressure, also the jets should be fitted as far from the throttle body as possible to achieve the best mixing/dispersal, unless you are going for two pumps and six jets straight into the intake runners, in which case your again looking for the best jets.

Yes! and it has the bigger brakes, changed my front disc's and was going to change the pads but they are in good condition so i have left them in, just wondered if they where anything good?

I have used Aquamist system for the last 18 months with no problems at all, can't fault it, and the after sales is very good! plus there is the forum on which the chief design engineer Richard Lamb is available to answer any problems, very helpful guy:)

Can anyone identify this pad? http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid205/pc0c2c073203be100dd92d1bc5285d126/ef42b8f9.jpg

Yeah, made the mistake of watching it the other night:(

Most car fires are caused by electrical problems, and not always under the bonnet, so i carry an extinguisher, anyway the only thing that the lining is going to save is the paint on the bonnet;)

Halfrauds, or any car accessory shop, its just like using filler with fiberglass strands in it, you will need to take the area where you want to add to, down to the matting ie remove the gelcoat, but than just treat it like filler, you may have to use polyester filler to smoth out but the finished result will be far better than tying to bridge the gaps with an adhesive!

Took mine out yesterday, no real increase in engine noise, but i can now hear my alarm and the dump valve, plus a bit of turbo stall.

I presume they are fiberglass? if so you can just build them up with fiberglass bridger, then reshape them to fit right, and don't use tiger seal! its crap! and will crack out in no time, and it will not fill big gaps, use Sikaflex 221, no adhesive/sealer will make a good job of badly fitting parts, unless you glue them on and then mould them in!

Sorry but you will just get the same result! the only way you will get what you want is to fit a decent ECU like the AEM and get the map spot on!

Yeah its a lot to do with the way the std ECU looks at the voltage that comes from the narrowband sensor, as soon as its outside a set voltage (can't remember what the limits are) the ECU will just + or - a set injector duty , so its rare that it stays dead stable when your driving on closed loop.