Tricky-Ricky

Anyone know if jack up the car using the front cross member? or is it to weak? i can't see any way of getting a jack far enough back to use the second cross member, as the car is to low and the undertray hangs to low!

Has anyone got a pic of this? i want to find out just what space i have to play with for fitting my wideband sensor!

Yes, yes and yes! will have a look at the dump valve, can't replace it as i don't have the original.

One more try?

Very pretty CJ, thats my kind of engine bay! what was the gear box issue?

Anyone?

Managed to squeeze three gauges across there, seems a good place for the XD-1. http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid202/p6e2bf3ab54f08776dda6b26ad9e8ed96/efd1229a.jpg

Thanks for that:) looks like they cross over at the pressure sensor end, to red white black, same as the pressure sensor, which is what i needed to know.

Is anyone using the emanage pressure sensor ? if so could you tell me the order of the cable colours where it plugs into the emanage and also does the cable order and colours match the pressure sensor cable colours? need to make one up!

I suppose this is aimed at Ian C really! before I get around to installing my blue emanage, I just wanted to double check a couple of things, first off, pin 62 is the correct one to cut and splice for pressure sensor? and rotary switches are 7 4 0 for the 2JZ GTE? although there are three other PS listed? and firing order is 1 5 3 6 2 4 is that correct? Just out of interest, I have had my blue emenage for about 2.5- 3 years and have never bothered to update the software (after hearing about a lot of people having trouble after update) I have never had any problems with mine, but am I missing any features from not updating? need less to say I will be running a wideband lambda, I will also run the Greddy pressure sensor, and also an EGT gauge, and when I get around to plumbing it in Aquamist water injection, and yes I have used all this on my last car for mapping.

OK i have cat back exhaust and a filter and DV, the engine seems to behave normally if blipped, and also when taken to 3000rpm hot and cold, the strange thing is i have just been out and started it (not stone cold but by no means warm) and it have started and idled at 1000rpm let it gradually warm up and it dropped to 900rpm, it responds normally to the AC being switched on, and another odd thing is if the headlights are turned on it will initially rise to 1000rpm and then go back to 900rpm?? if turned off and restarted it will idle at 900rpm until the lights are switched on again! but i would be willing to bet tomorrow it will start and do the same as i described in my first post! Oh and the pulse on first starting when very cold is the rpm cycling from say 600rpm to 750rpm one a second.

Any thoughts on this? started it this morning and the pulsing seems to be more prolonged before it settles down:(

Looks action packed and some nice cars, just hope the plot is not as sad as the first two!

One on the left is a Redline EGT gauge, but it will run up to four thermocouples so you can run EGT oil temp intake temp whatever,and with data logging! very good gauges there American and built like a tank! there tested to something like 20Gs!! the other is a Innovate XD-1 AFR gauge, no sensors connected as yet, waiting for decat pipes;)

Been busy already, installed some gauges, and knocked up an enclosed heat shield for the intake plus a rad cover. http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid202/p6e2bf3ab54f08776dda6b26ad9e8ed96/efd1229a.jpg http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid202/p4ace349fb888ef46fa62bd8d829b2ba5/efd12217.jpg

Still have a strange idle, not that its been fixed yet, but i'm wondering just how many factors are involved in idle control? been reading through the manual and trying to get gist of the adjustment procedure? if i start the car from cold, it seems to initially idle at 1000RPM but quickly drops down to 650 after 1-2 mins, but today (bloody cold!) it starts but pulses for about 30 seconds and then idles at 800RPM and then rises to 1000 and then quickly back to 650! and i found it hesitated a bit after pulling away! so although i think the IAC valve is not working right( but it must be doing something for the idle to rise initially!?) or is there something else working in conjunction??

I have this to! been told its normal? only clunks when put into first, don't think it actually creeps forward.

Found the cause of my really annoying vibration/noise, decided i had had enough and took the leaver apart and discovered that attached to the bottom of the alloy slider that you lift to engage reverse there is a steel section presumably to prevent premature ware, this is located by two very small allen grub screws, and this was loose and obviously causing the noise, so after tightening these all was quiet again:) i do suspect that they will no doubt come loose again judging by the design! so i will have to think again as the allen key was starting to slip in the screws, and i doubt that they will come out next time!

Already ordered with the decat mate:) even got my EGT and wideband fitted in the dash not connected as yet, will post some pics as i get things sorted:)

OK thanks:) had me confused because they have it labeled as an oxygen sensor in the manual.

I am about to decat (both) and i have been told that i can just leave the second sensor out (still connected) will this not have an impact on the o2 feedback ? or throw up an error code?

I completely agree! which is why i run platinum or copper, but more for the safety aspect not bad mapping! (never melted a plug yet) just rather have a melted plug than a melted piston, and i have seen a few broken iridiums screw engines after a bit of det on a hot day! was just being lazy in explaining my reasons before:)

Been using NGK platinum's in all my turbo cars for the last five years, i prefer them to iridiums, as there not so fragile.

If so where have you taken your power feed from?