Tricky-Ricky

Where does this retaining heat come from?? plugs are designed to work at certain temperature ranges! hence the number rating! it makes no difference weather its a copper core, platinum or an iridium, the number dictates the designed heat range of the plug, which is achieved by a combination of electrode length, electrode projection and type of ceramic insulation! the only difference is the metal and size of the electrode, and they are only precious metal in order to prolong service life, admittedly some types work better on some engines than others, hence my comments about iridiums being fragile when subjected to detonation

Sorry but i won't run Iridiums, as a personal preference, due to seeing to many engine problems, imo they are to fragile when it comes to coping with detonation, always used platinum on past cars with no problems, using copper core at the moment.

Thanks guys, think i may have solved the misfire, by re-gapping the plugs, I'll give it another couple of days just to be sure, and if that doesn't do it I'll get some new platinum ones, so onto the next problem! known about this for a while, no two tubby is not doing its bit, so i think I'll start with the TTC mod to see if it actually works, and then check all the VSVs and pressure tank.

Oh well! just have to reply to my own threads! do i use the wrong virtual deodorant or something couldn't get a reply to my last thread either? just as well i can do my own troubleshooting:p but some feedback might have been good! anyway after ploughing through a lot of threads on the Supraforums, i found that an idle misfire is quite common on a BPU car, sometimes it can be cured by re-gapping or changing plugs, and sometimes not.

Just when i thought all problems had now been resolved, i get another! thought i noticed a very slight shudder the other day, now its turned into a misfire very noticeable at idle, tried pulling the coil pac connections with no real effect very odd! the only things i can think of is either it doesn't like the emanage, or the plugs are sooting up, colder and i do a lot of town driving, i must say i have never had a car thats given me so many problems, beginning to wonder if i should have stuck to my Nissan! any ideas?

Mine always clanks on changing from first to second, and back down again, also clanks going on and off the throttle in lower gears, i was told it was normal?

I'm trying to sort this and i'm having trouble with getting the STD map sensor and the Greddy pressure sensor to match up, anybody got a workable calibration for this? one of them is obviously not linear,also having trouble with the STD intake temp sensor!

Your not alone mate!

I'll try and make this one, providing nothing else goes wrong.

Happy Birthday mate:) the hard part is the 30 year old head telling the 53 year old body what to do;)

This may be of interest, i have just bought some Tamiya clear orange acrylic paint in order to do my fog lamp bulbs, if it works ok it will be a cheap option at £1 a pot, and available from your local friendly model shop;)

Thanks, glad there still working ok as i think i may use the same, as i can't fit the LEDs i got hold of without modifying the fog lamp, which i don't want to do at the moment.

LOL which half of the year do you want it for mate:sly:

Me to!

Just niggles really until this one:( and no i have to take care of it! as for your filter mate, i think you would be better off building an air box and use the hole you have cut to run a big cold air pipe into the box, you may run into problems in the rain/winter.

Yes mate cars all fixed now i'm just a bit paranoid in case it pops the seal again.

Looks great:) see you got the new front on matt, hows it feel with the IC?

This is doing my head in! wired my blue emanage about four weeks ago, but only connected it after my decat, and noticed after a couple of drives that an error code was being flashed, 24 which is no signal from no 4 injector! was not there the first couple of drives, anyway got the meter out and went through everything, no problems? yesterday after getting the car sorted after the seal went, and after a drive the code was back! so far i have ascertained that, on first start both cold and warmed up there is no code, all starts after that code 24:( just been through all the injector wiring again and no problem, slightly different approach, i disconnected each injector in sequence and checked the fault codes, and sure enough, they came up as they should even on two wires disconnected! BUT the very odd thing is injector no 4 code never showed up!?? now the damm thing is not showing any codes, even after three starts! but for how long??

Good point! forgot all about cam timing:senile:

Are they still working OK? and what make was the paint?

I can't answer all your questions, as i'm not yet completely familiar with this engine yet, but most of what you have listed will build you and strong engine that could take you past 700BHP with the right turbo, head gaskets, depending on what turbo and boost combination you intend to run, for instance as a guideline the more boost pressure, the thicker the head gasket! the effect is to lower the compression ratio in order to prevent detonation at higher boost, as for valve clearances, the makers usually stipulate an ideal Clarence. you might want to concider an uprated radiator and intercooler,also you need to think about fuelling, bigger injectors, uprated pump/s and some form of engine management.What do you mean by "billets" Hope this helps.

Unfortunately no! ignition timing plays a big part to, if your on a std ECU then you should be ok, but just because you AFRs are good it does not automatically mean that EGTs are good.

Well got it all back together today, dressed the crank a bit with some 1500 paper, the seal went in a little farther than i planed, but all seems ok been for a short drive, the oil pressure still seems high, even with 5w30, didn't push it yet, no more than 5K and .5 boost, still need to find out why the second turbo doesn't seem to come in, and i still have an error code 24 on my emanage despite rechecking the injector wiring.

Best option i can think of is along the lines of markssupras air box, you just need a good cold air supply.

I found that changing to a BB turbo on my S14 gave me quicker spool up at lower RPM and better pick up, and i know of quite a few people that have run BB turbos at higher boost for a lot longer than your average plain bearing turbo, so i'm really not sure where the short lifespan came from, i have never heard that said before.