Tricky-Ricky

Looks great! but a lot of work, especially with the bonnet being alloy, suppose it could be done with a fibreglass one.

No not been modded other than a decat+ exhaust, Wallbro, colder plugs and as i said, and its only making .8 bar so the second tubo is not coming in, also if rings/bore have a problem, would i not get some indication like burning oil, smoke etc? every other engine that i have tested for compression with a ring/bore problem has shown a marked difference, suppose i should do a wet test as well just to be sure, but as the readings where good, i didn't bother, i will also check the for pressure with the engine when i have replaced the oil seal, as i don't really want to run it as is.

Yes as i said with the pressure i can supply it works as a one way valve as it should, If i am getting those sort of compression figures when cold, i can't see the being a lot of crankcase pressurisation, as for oil pressure could it be down to running 10W 40 oil my oil pressure at idle is never less than 32psi and thats at 110c oil temp at 2,500-3,000 rpm its about 70 psi and over that i have not noticed to be honest as i have been monitoring other things, so would that be high enough to cause pressure relief problems?

Bugger! not going to make this one now, due to popping my crankshaft seal:(

Yes thats correct, and the part throttle breather behaved as it should when sucked:blink:

The leak was from the crank oil seal the one that went, so that was expected, i know the system should be adequate, i'm just trying to find a reason for the seal going, but the worrying thing about my little test was the fact that it felt like it was pressurising, now i know that the WOT breather will be subject to a small vacume most of the time as a result of the turbo intake drawing on it, and the other plenum side will only have a vacume when there is no boost or the throttle is closed, so at high boost rpm there is only going to be one breather open, just trying to get my head around why my seal popped, other than that i will have to look at whether it was down to too high oil pressure, perhaps i should use 5-30 instead of 10-40?

just done a compression test, and the results are good:) details on my Breathers thread.

Well just done a cold compression test and the results are very good! 1/ 13.1 bar = 190 psi 2/ 13.3 bar = 193 psi 3/ 13.5 bar = 195 psi 4/ 13.2 bar = 191 psi 5/ 13.2 bar = 191 psi 6/ 13.2 bar = 191 psi so as the test was done stone cold i would expect the reading to go up when hot as all the tolerances will have closed up a bit, so no real reason to suspect there is lots of blow by pressurising the crankcase.

Anyone care to comment? just interested to see what peoples thoughts on this are!

Going to open up a can of worms, but i have just found some interesting/worrying results whilst testing the breather system, took off the main breather hose that normally feeds into the turbo inlet, and also the plenum side breather and connected a pipe to each, tested the one way valve and it seems OK, but when blowing through the other pipe i can defiantly hear it escaping through the seal that's popped, but the worrying bit is that there is a definite resistance/pressurisation of the crankcase/camcovers! and that's just with me blowing through, now i can't shift much CFM but i'm dam sure that the engine can at medium/high RPM! now is there something wrong or is the engine just not breathing well? I am not going to get into the rights or wrongs of running catch tanks/venting to atmosphere again! but i will say that i'm not convinced that even with the std breather system in place that the vacuum generated by the induction system is by no means high/large enough to counter this, as by shear size/percentage its not going to overcome ring/bore blow by if there is a little wear! does anyone know what size the transfer/oil galleries are? Going to do a cold compression test later, to give me some idea if there is a lot of wear in the rings/bore. I'm not completely convinced that my crank oil seal failure was down to this yet, but it would seem to be the most likely cause, unless its an oil pressure problem.

Thanks i have been doing some more poking about on the Supraforums and found it is quite common, there seems to be varying explanations for it happening, but what baffled me is if its down to worn rings/bore causing the seal to pop, like i said in in a post further up, surly the dip stick would move way before the seal popped? anyway compression test is next, should have done it ages ago, but the power was good so i didn't worry, the best fix seems to be three small screws taped into the metal around the seal and locktited into place so i may do that! Must admit that if i had any spare money left after buying the Supra i would be inclined to give it to someone to sort, but i would rather trust myself with this then i'm sure its done right.

Sounds like the cam cover is leaking, check all the nuts and tweak them up i suspect some will be a bit loose.

Are you talking about the outside of the plugs? or the tips?

Just another thought, regarding crankcase over pressure, surely if this is happening to the extent that the crank seal pops out, then wouldn't the dipstick be blown out to? i have seen this happen on a few other engines when there has been excessive crankcase pressure.

Just been doing some searching for oil seal problems and found a varied bunch of possible causes, one is oil pressure build up behind seal, not sure about this one as if the design is correct it should never occur, but having said that my oil pressure is high ish! another is crankcase over pressure due to ring blow by or other, now the only other thing i can think of that would cause this is the breakdown of the ability for the crankcase to transfer/equalise pressure/vacume with the top of the engine, not sure if this is done by an external hose/tube or through the block on the Supra? will have to look in the manual! or lastly the seal had just got hardened/brittle/fatigued and failed!

LOL ! not met many that could diagnose something like that, only have the recovery for just this sort of thing, half the time they don't have the right accessory belt if you do break one!

With fecking bells on! thought i'd take the Supra out for a drive this afternoon, since i haven't had a chance after decating it on Saturday, only found one clear bit of road, and managed to get it up to 120ish leptons 5,200 rpm mainly wanted to see if boost is reaching 1 bar as i suspect the second turbo is not coming in, and sure enough it only makes .8 bar:( anyway i'm on my way back and i thought i saw a bit of smoke haze in my mirror, a couple of minutes later i get a low oil light come on and then go out again, now i'm fairly close to home and i know its full to the max mark, so i continue, anyway it comes on again! oil pressure is fine, but i pull over into the industrial estate and open the bonnet to be greeted with smoke! FOOK! see a trail of oil spots behind the car, look underneath and the whole fecking thing is dripping with oil:( panic sets in at this point and i'm thinking the worst! now to placate myself i briefly start the engine just to check i still have oil pressure, and i have so i start to be rational and have a good look, its not my drain plug fallen out, its not my sandwich plate come loose, still having visions of a hole in the block etc! after a good poke around i see that there is oil seeping from the joins in the front of the cam cover, so i'm pretty sure is popped the front crank oil seal! got it home on the RAC recovery truck in the end, I have now got the rad out and some covers off and i'm pretty convinced thats what it is, now the BIG question is WHY? its not like i'm running high boost, the only thing i can possibly think of is that the seal has become brittle and failed! or there is some problem with the bottom end breathing! Anyway to say i'm pretty pissed off is an understatement! I've only had it just over two months! sorry for the long post, if you have any ideas, theories they are welcome.

I have seen 130 psi stone cold in colder weather, hot i see 32-35 psi idle and generally 70 psi at 3-4,00 RPM

A lot of turbo cars tend to have the stock ECU maps run pretty rich at full boost, more a safety feature, it would be better at about 11.- 11,5.1 and best power is up around 12.2.1 but there is no safety margin, your only a bit of det away from disaster! and like Alex says it could well lean out again at peak RPM.

OK just a sec !!!!!!!! thats better:) yes i have the check engine light on and when the TE1 and E1 are bridged i get the oil level warning light flashing and the check engine light stays steady, the flashing is regular and if this was to be taken as the check light it would indicate no stored codes??

You can do it on a jack, just crawl under and undo the drain and filler plugs, you can lower the jack just to ensure you have drained all the oil! put the drain plug back in, get yourself about 6 feet of garden hose, and a funnel that fits the hose, poke it down the rear of the engine bay, crawl back underneath and push the hose into the filler, make sure it stays there, crawl out and measure 1.8 lt and pour it into the funnel attached to the hose, crawl back and do up the filler, and your done!

Just been out and double checked the port config, and found what the confusing bit is! the pic in the manual has the mounting tab around the wrong way! which if your looking at the overall shape, is confusing! well that's my excuse anyway:blush: Bur seriously its kind of worrying if you take the manuals plug wiring diagrams as the right orientation and they turn out to be wrong! Anyway it still doesn't explain why the light wont flash/ and the engine oil light flashed? (or is that the one that's supposed to?? but not as i read it in the manual! so why is the engine check light lit up but no codes present!?

Anybody care to comment?

OK now this is odd! i checked for error codes on the car, now the connections that need to be bridged are a different layout in the cap of the OBD port, than what they are in the manual?? so i tried both ways! one way i got no flashing light! and the other i got the engine oil level light flashing constantly?? so now i'm totally confused! any help appreciated! Secondly regarding the Emanage error code of 24 no 4 injector no signal! well there is continuity so i can't see any reason for the error, i did switch jumper 2 to 12V so that got rid of the very slight misfire, i also updated the software, but the code is still there! but everything works ok! double checked! so why is it throwing up an error code?? anyone?

Hi Lisa and don't worry, you'll get used to them, eventually!