Noz

crap. yea would explain why she dont fire up sometimes. so no one else sells them apart from toyota? 300 quiddies, that's gonna rape my ass!

Having some squeeks and noise come from lowest pulley on the aux belt on front of engine. Could this just be the bearings need replacing? Its pretty bad sometimes wont even start because of it.

I hope so guys! I think making the jigs will be tricky. I already have some designs in my head so I can smooth the face flat perfect on each one, as adjusting the face may alter the button face. Im sure I can design something up.

Lol its ok dude. All opinions welcome. The more the better, nice to know what people think. Though these are probably just for myself and maybe a few sets but not many as these will be a PITA on a god-like level

See where your coming from steve, but I'm not making OEM steel buttons, Im making custom buttons. The designs are also slightly different in comparison. I want to freshen them up. Replicating the OEM look goes out the window when you use steel as a front cover OCD man

Thanks dude, all about the spool and traction then! I'd love an LSD, I'll need a new diff by then anyway. Whats the spec on your turbo? Inducer wheel etc if you know it. I always see people over spec the turbo for future goals, my current T61 is well over beefed for my current power requirements a much smaller one would suit. Id like to get the turbo running its max for 600 and I think mine would do that at a struggle but wanted a higher quality one. Is the auto diff on the manual box alot different on the gear ratios then?

How does this engine drive compared to the other? The spec was listed as higher bhp, but obviously different internals and stuff, I'm unsure the differences, this one must spool quicker? Just thought I'd ask, as I was aiming for 600 and didn't want it to feel sluggish because I hadn't spec'ed the engine correctly.

Re-designed these to have square corners and only include radius on the outer buttons. Thought it would give a more effective and clean look.

Looks wicked mate. Get those brakes painted black!

try your way first. see how you get on. if you have shed loads of water then you may have to. the gallery should clear itself to a certain extent due to engine heat. obviouly if its over loaded it won't.

We have a really good aluminium company here. They do us all sorts of work, I'm sure a bit of private work could be done. The best way for me to get anything done, would be to design what's required, and then decide if machining or welding is needed. THOUGH like you said, Mr T beat me to it again. I need to get involved in this custom project somewhere!! I want to feel needed lol and what better project than the custom-engine setup, the fabrication kingdom of your bay!

I filled the engine before when the TB hose came loose as the clamp had corroded. I get all sorts of those kinda problems having big vents in the bonnet, everything goes rusty. Whifbitz removed the plugs and blew air into the chambers, fixed the problem.

With a water/meth setup it's recommend to have a flow sensor. Most kits come with a level sensor, but only premium kits comes with a flow sensor. This is just as important. If you have these two, then you have fail safes.

Well done guys, thats amazing results

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm I see why your unsure. I think if you done the other surrounds parts it would look like it was meant to be there? I reckon because it has other un touched components next to each side it looks a bit lonely. It's just getting it right so it has sooth lines I spose. Does look nice though!

It's difficult with problems like these, as usually double de-cat doesn't cause problems, but changing the flowof the engine may have made a small not-noticable problem become a big one. The title is slightly mis-leading, as you say your problem was there and got worst when you removed the cat. maybe best to change this title to NA running rough or something, as it doens't look to be the cats causing the problem. You have two options to look at first, the fueling or ignition. if you have a friendly mate with a garage maybe check the emissions to see if its over/under fueling. It's not a problem solver, but may help put you in the right direction. Maybe by removing the o2 sensors you have knocked something, or maybe one of these have an issue?

I'd never buy an engine that was advertisd without an air filter.

Looking awesome.

Try and heat it up with a hair dryer and put some pressure on it until it start to shift. Your slowly see if there's movement. Takes alot of heat, but at a sensible temperature. I had a right pain removing my rear spats and took the paint right off. Do it cold and your definitely risk damaging the boot if it's strong adhesive.

Typically I prefer dish, but that looks loads better mate. Very jealous. Saw you'd bought those wheels and was hating you lol

Thanks guys. Going to take them to work tomorrow to accurately measure them to make up jigs to help assemble them. Im sure they will look sweet, if someone doesnt mind the effort I could knock these out fairly cheap but depending on how long it takes to do them. Waiting for these is 4-5 weeks due to custom one off order!!

question should be who hasn't got these. they are very popular. they are nice though.

If so why didnt you post on the thread I've had zero interest with them. I'm surprised really, considering they are NO other button designs on the market. It's gonna be a pain in the rear. Keep them as spare, OR email the company asking for a couple, they may have spare themselves?

Wheres the boot release... Has nothing on this.

I think it's 1.5. Just thought I'd throw in my opinion that can't actually be used without proof lol I'll look it up see if I can find out EDIT: http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&site=&source=hp&q=toyota+wheel+nut+thread&oq=toyota+wheel+nut+thread&gs_l=hp.3..0l4j0i30l4j0i8l2.2453.6813.0.6907.25.13.0.0.0.0.282.282.2-1.1.0...0.0...1c.Ajwu3l1asDU 1.5 mm pitch. What do I win?