sideexitsupra

Whifbitz do these as well.

Maybe another Syvecs controller knob so you can manually adjust this? Would allow you to fine tune depending on where you are (different surfaces) and how well prepped it is.

Can't you get Ryan to program the Syvecs so it will only allow it after a certain speed? Wheelspin not a factor as could be read from the front abs hubs? I guess a relay only activated after a certain speed would do it. I'm sure you could get an output from the Syvecs after a certain speed.

Might be up for this if the weather is good. Will probably be my last run out this year.

Your best to get a replacement hub from Keron. Much simpler and cheaper!

Far safer than being in a caterham or on a bike in a similar situation I would say. This isn't a daily driver for me and the cage is well padded. We will have to agree to disagree.

Only if you drive like an a*se on public roads!

Yeah, but I can't be *rsed to do that. Also difficult when harnessed up!

Send Paul a PM or email and he will sort you out. I think he has a minimum delivery cost set up on his website but ask and you will get. These normally only need changing if you have a rattle.

Nothing wrong with Steves gearbox I assure you. He had a TRD mount and triple plate clutch. The clutch and flywheel like most big power ones rattle a bit at idle. Added to the fact he had no sound deadening in the car made the whole set up quite noisy. Just makes me think my BPU is a little more like his car. That's all. As regards the noise in the video, I get nothing like that. Just a similar noise to the one Dean mentioned.

I have a cage in mine and I am yet to make it to a track. The cage is padded in all the right places and I have 5 point harnesses and Recaro Pole Position buckets to stop too much movement! It is a cusco type bolt in and I am yet to fit the door bars. It has made the car noticeably stiffer, most noticed when jacking the car for a wheel change. This must be good for the track. The front section is quite intrusive though. Sun visors have to be down permanently and it is more difficult for my largish feet getting in and out. With hindsight I would go for just a rear section if I was doing again or a full weld in FIA spec one. Edit: no change to my insurance as it is already insured as a rally car with mods declared but not actually required. Competition Car Insurance.

I have had one fitted for for over 12 months now and it is incredibly noisy! I have std clutch and flywheel but it makes as much transmission noise as Stevel's race car did. The one I bought had been on someones car for a week and they were changing back to stock because it was too loud. Will stick with mine as it fits with the whole race car theme, well actually i'm not convinced about that to be honest.

Make sure they are all pushed on tight. I had a second turbo issue earlier this year and the pipe was not off, just loose. It had moved a few mm and was obviously sucking in air. Pushing it back down solved the problem for a few days, replacing the pipe solved it for good!

Guess its time to check all the vac hoses too.

If you find the second turbo coming in late adjust the gain setting. I accidentally turned the gain down and the second turbo was coming in around 5000 rpm. Set at 20% it comes in around 4000.

Looks good. What thickness is the (aluminium?) chassis? Looks a little thin and may flex? Sorry to be anal but years ago I worked for a RC car manufacturer. They were many time world champions and the technology in their kits was amazing.

All the turbos are twin turbo as factory spec. Many on here have upgraded to a single turbo and some have converted NA Supes to a single turbo. Hope that helps?

I have a pair of second hand but perfect condition couplers if you are interested? 14 & 15 on your picture,17341F on the diagrams. PM me if you are.

I am actually going to take off my APR and put the stock spoiler back on for road use. I will be keeping the APR for trackdays only. Seriously fed up with the difference in attention the car gets. Was pretty anonymous before with not too many people looking but with it on, well thats a totally different story. I think it looks fine on silver cars but I guess you need the race car look for it to work. With the Ridox kit, side exit exhausts, diffuser, cage, bucket seats and harnesses it seems to work fine, not forgetting the white wheels! If you want one go for it!

When do we think? Really need to this as we missed last month!

I would give Paul Whiffin a call. He will sort you out with these.

Had a look at this today when I popped in to see Paul. The engine bay looks fantastic. Lots of nice shiny bits....... Darren was on the ECU, not literally. Hope you enjoy. I am not at all jealous.

The gauges in the display look familiar. Any chance you have been speaking to Zada Tech?

The wheels need to be straight as the arch roller bolts to the hub. Turning the wheel will make no difference other than to make rolling the arch very, very difficult, if not impossible. Good lateral thinking though.

Better add me too as my car is almost track ready now. East Lancashire for me.