Mario

i'm far away from those hp figures, i'll start small and see from there, but will watching your build with interest where it goes from here.

Oke, never knew that you can run that much on a stock 2JZ-GTE, That is a little bit of an expensive way of gathering the info of what an stock 2jz gte can handle, but liking your idea very much.

Good news that you're up and running again, nice results too. just out of curiousity what can a complete stock 2jz-gte handle before it starts failing regarding power, asking beceause i'm going for a same sort of set up on mine hopefully next year, but with use of an 67dbb instead of an billet6765.

That chute, awesome!

I use bridgestone potenza's RE050A, used to have the p zero rosso's but for an very short period.

Car looks very clean again, succes with the map session thursday.

Best looking aftermarket body-kit for the supra MKIV,

Here you go, 17's and frontlip, The RMM frontlip is discontinued,

http://garagewhifbitz.co.uk/frontpage/genuine-trd-supra/ If you zoom in at the bonnet you will find mesh, i think that this is genuine stuff. http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?600300-TRD-Hood-Carbon-Fiber-Rain-Guards/page2 From the above link the op claims that his genuine trd hood came with mesh. I can only say that my new cf VIS Racing bonnet came with mesh and rain guards, i picked it up 2 days ago,

complete respray,

None of both, as from the supra in your garage i assume you want to get rid of the veilside which is fitted on the pictures, i would go with the stock front bumper and an aftermaket frontlip as rmm/mvp/whiffbitz.

nice

Nice ones, got the same package over here:d, that was only a few days, ordering shipping,, any idea in what position you're going to install them on the do luck hood?

http://www.mkiv.com/tmp/paintcodes.html http://www.toyotareference.com/supra#SU have a look in the toyota reference chart,

They will,

Do you like a chrome eye catching thing on aerocatch'es on your bonnet? I got myself a set of genuine aerocatch a few weeks ago not going to use them now but maybe in a later stadium, i got them in black non locking, they feel really solid and if i went with the key locks i think the chrome thing where the key needs to be sticked into will be an eye catcher, i think it's personal taste and locking it down, well you know even when we close our goodies up at home or car and somebody wants it, not any lock is enough to keep thiefs away.

Shaved front lip does look better, good luck bud What color you had in mind for the respray Frank,

Do you mean by an auto diff the A02B?

are you still running stock suspension? A set of decent adjustable coilovers can also help, And as Phil said, arch rolling.

Here you go, The Torsen diff is a standard fitment to all 6 speed mkiv's, alot of the Auto TT's and you'll even occasionally find it on a NA. You can tell if your Supra has a Torsen diff by reading the Trans/Axle code on the Engine Tag which is situated under your bonnet. The last letter of the 4 character code (eg. B03B) denotes the diff type which is "A" for a std diff and "B" for a Torsen diff. The crown wheel on the B series is 220mm whilst on the A series it's 200mm. The Torsen (TORque SENsing) LSD (Limited Slip Diff) works quite differently to the TRD LSD. The Torsen is a Torque Multipling type of diff with a multiplication ratio of around 5:1. What this means is that whatever torque can be sent to the wheel with the least traction, it can send up to 5 times that torque to the wheel with the most traction. Its biggest advantage is that it can do this extremely quickly and doesn't ever lockup the ratio, but is continuously "sensing" and adjusting the torque between the two wheels. Its only real disadvantage is that when one wheel has no torque available (say it spinning in mud), then 5 times nothing is still no torque to the other wheel, so you can get stuck just like a std diff. Once the car is moving however this cannot happen. The TRD LSD is a standard type LSD in that it uses clutch packs to transfer torque from one wheel to the other. Transferring torque via clutch packs will be a slower process then the Torsen transfer method and it will absorb more energy from the engine when doing so. However we are probably only talking a few hundreds of a second difference here and maybe a few hp. The main disadvantage of the TRD diff is that it can "lockup" the ratio between the two wheels at 1:1. This means both wheels will then turn at the same speed and if this happens on a corner, it would be exciting at the very least. This "lockup" is also its only advantage over the Torsen diff as even when one wheel is in the mud, the other wheel can provide traction to pull you out. My personal preference is for the Torsen diff as it usually comes free with the car, reacts quicker and aborbs less power and will never accidentally lockup. However, if you want to go rally driving in your mkiv Supra (don't laugh, there's guys in the USA that do just that) then the TRD would be the better bet.

True there are quite a few clips of this car love the sound:cool:, but you will even find the rarest combinations where people fit four rotory engines in, seen 4-rotory speedboats, 2JZ-GTE powered boats, name it actually pretty amazing.

Exactly reminds me to Japans one and only victory back in '91 during the 24hrs of le mans.

A colleague of mine went with his familly to le mans (museum) where he took several pictures of the mazda 787 B, Before he went i asked him to take pictures of this historic car, he never knew of the existance of this car but he would take pictures anyway, Some pictures of this car i received this evening, and wanted to share with you guys, hope you enjoy.[ATTACH=CONFIG]137474[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]137475[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]137476[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]137477[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]137478[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]137479[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]137480[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]137481[/ATTACH]

:cool:Nice pictures

Nice adjustable camgears you've got there, they match perfectly with your colorscheme:thumbs: