Mario

My ‘’project’’ is doing fine Roy, turbokit I bought is complete, still need several other parts to complete my shoppinglist.

Wlcome on board Roy, good luck with your build.

Now you've covered the Heater/air con and loom holes is that part of deleting the aircon system?

Fantastic result, congrats to all involved.

I’m running the classics in 18x10’’ fronts and 17x11,5’’ rears 17x10 in Front (+/- 44.5mm offset) and 17x11.5 in Back (+/- 51mm offset), few things which attracted me choosing this wheelset up: Lightweight trhee piece design, Widest contact patch available on stock arches (slight roll on the rears)and choosing the tire size which you can safely run on the wheel sizes, 18’’ wheel up front allows you to upgrade to bigger rotors and calipers if needed, the advantage of the 285 up front and its narrow sidewall allows lower ride height and corner balancing flexibility and might promote quicker turn in as well, taller rear tire sidewall might provide better grip under acceleration. This wheel set-up was a very common choice back in the day in road racing the supra, http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?446542-A-bit-of-Supra-road-racing-history...who-knows-the-full-story-(Pics) And maybe still is, Titan motorsports lists the 18/17 as the ultimate road race set up, it’s an old school proven set up but I like it. Handling improved massively when installed, the supra is much more sticky-er on the road and it really feels confident in cornering. Tires are a pain to get hold of down here, so will have to order them from the US or have to try toyo tires Benelux for a couple of r888’s in 315/17’s.

Looking good Steve:thumbs:

Found a list long time ago, not know if it's 100% accurate but its an nice reference list and it shows the differences,http://www.wheelweights.net/ according the list the Volk TE37 Magnesium wheels come in as very lightweight wheels, also the weds tc 105N are pretty lightweight wheels. I always compared weights to my old work meister s2r 2 piece forged wheels, which weigh in at 10,2 kilograms for an 18''x10J wheel from which i thought they were pretty light.

haha i'm not selling.

Nice pics, lol @ Abz sitting on a dog with a sign saying ''Don't sit on it''.

Been waiting for that vid to be released:D Love it, 4 bucket seats in a supra lol.

Very difficult to recommend a clutch to another clubmember as what the one likes can be a total disliked clutch to another, my personal preferences would go to an multiple disk type clutch, after doing a lot of reading for example this particular thread on sf.com 19 pages of clutchtalk http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?502027-Clutch-for-700-900rwhp The rps c/c clutch seems to be an ticking timebomb from what i've read so wanted to stay as far from it as possible(again just personal preference) The carbonetic tripple carbon and OS Giken quad plate clutch is my preference, went with the carbonetic tripple carbon in the end.

That's the spirit,

^^picture works fine for me, basic wiring diagram on the greddy site just shows you the basics. red wire to 12v, black wire connects to any good ground source. Now the green and white wire, if you look closer on the BASIC diagram(speed cut defender isnt relevant) you see BOOST SIGNAL written on the left side of the diagram, that signal is going through a wire which originally went straight towards the ecu. You also see that that wire is cut, marked by an X, now you see the white wire which is now connected to the wire where the boost signal is coming from so it enters the bcc, but you also want to pass the signal through towards the ecu so thats the green wire which is connected to the wire which goes towards the ecu. Thats about it. Hope this helps you as I cannot explain it any better.

this picture shows how it is installed in mine 93 jdm supra turbo Red to any 12V source Black to any good ground source Green To turbo pressure signal wire, pin 62 on ecu. White Wire connects to the Turbo Pressure Signal wire, away from the ECU(BLACK/YELLOW STRIPED WIRE) http://www.greddy.com/tech-support/misc-electronics/ ^^here you see the basic wiring diagram from the greddy site.

Here you go, http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/bcc/bcc_install/bcc.htm

Would be nice to see some quarter mile passes from your th400 converted supra, Also very nice mod that the Link ecu just uses the oem ecu casings.

You've got a nice deal on them tires, good choice too. Liking the r888's,

Back to stock body, nice. I see you went with the Toyo tires, is it the r888? How much were you quoted for them and where did you get them from in the end, was it via the link Adam posted up?

Nice one Rob

Ren red or 3L2 tend to fade after time when yours is from 95 and still on the factory paint its difficult to match up with brand new 3L2, you could also try to bring a sample to someone who can match up the color by scanning the sample you bring in. Think of an fuelcap cover or something.

I'm running the kumho ecsta xs in 315/35/17's in the rear, if that is of any help to you.

michelin pilot sport 2 i think but might be too wide in 335/17

^^Oke, think the same applies down here.

I think it looks weird too, but there is actually a reason for it too, http://driftjapan.com/blog/car-parts/drifting-hipari-style-tires/ In Japan, the word Hipari refers to a tire style that is achieved by stretching a narrow tire over a wider wheel like a 215 35 18 inch tire on a 9.5 wide wheel. The difference in widths causes the sidewalls to stretch from the lip to the tread giving the tire a unique low profile stance and increased sidewall rigidity. In drifting, less sidewall flex means smoother weight transitions, improved throttle response, better steering feel, and less body roll when cornering. There are higher end tires that can provide these same handling characteristics when drifting without the sidewall stretch, but they are expensive and herein lies another advantage of the hipari style tire – narrow tires are cheap. Stretching a thin tire onto a wide rim decreases a wheel’s standard tire width resulting in a smaller contact patch and less traction. When learning how to drift this can be advantageous since you can get the car sliding sideways at lower speeds. However in pro level drifting events, drifters need as much traction as possible out of their tires to control their drift cars at 100+ mph so initially it seems that hipari tire would not be the best choice but pro drifters found a solution. D1 Grand Prix drifters get around the traction loss issue by using super wide wheels that fit tires they would usually use on their car so the overall contact patch stays the same. This gives the hipari look without loosing traction. Stretched tires can be used on all four corners of a car but up front, usually you don’t stretch the tires to the same extent as they are stretched on the back. For example, a car with 8.5 inch wide wheels all around, would use 210-220 tires up front and 195-205 tires in the rear. This gives the drift car good grip up front for steering while maintaining the hipari style and handling advantages. Another thing to note is that stretched tires require a higher psi than normal. 40+ psi is recommend for stretched tires. The history behind hipari style stretched tires is two fold as poor people have been stretching tires onto wheels they don’t belong forever while euro tuners in Germany and Belgium started stretching their tires out of legal necessity. Local laws there require that the tire tread be within the fender line and with wider or lower offset wheels that can cause problems. To maintain the wide wheel fashion and keep the car street legal, narrow tires are stretched over the wide wheels. Popular Tires for Stretching: Toyo T1-S Dunlop SP9000 Dunlop SP8080E Falken FK451 Other tires will work. Find a tire with a rounded shoulder and lip protector. If you want to get the tire outside the fender, use wheel spacers. Most wheel and tire shops will be willing to stretch tires and it will take a professional air compressor to help seat the tire as it can take up to 90lbs of pressure to pop the bead. Critics of the hipari tire style say it’s all about fashion and anything that reduces a car’s contact patch is dumb. Some go further to say that stretching tires increases wear because of uneven heat dissipation and that may increase the potential of tire failure. As far as safety goes, there is little evidence that stretched tires are any more dangerous than regular tires. One problem though is that your wheels are closer to street and damaging potholes but you should stay away from holes in the ground anyway!

USDM use Maf not Map USDM 550cc injector Low impedance JDM 440cc high impedance