2soops

He was f angry, especially as the new wheels set him back nearly £700 with tyres, and he couldnt even sell the old ones as they were aftermarket and he only had 3 left after cuting one off.

Ive removed them in the past by welding a nut to them round the inside of the nut threads, depends on the access though as some wheels have the nuts quite well recessed. A friend of mine recently had to buy 4 new wheels after both drilling and welding failed, and he had to cut the alloy wheel off. All thanks to a young inexperienced tyre mechanic who used the windy gun on the locking wheel nuts, broke the hardened steel key, then wouldn't pay for the wheel as he said "the key must have been faulty mate"

Hi all, im halfway through converting the missuses MR2 from Auto to Manual and have a couple of questions for anyone that might be in the know. I have been offered a really good deal on a 5 speed box locally but it has an electronic speedo drive wheras her car is cable driven. Is there a way i can still get the speedo to work or will i need a cable driven manual box. Dont know why Toyota did 2 types but they did for some reason. Secondly, are the drive shafts the same on the autos and manuals Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated, Cheers

You can still plug just the motor back into the wiring loom without it or the rest of the spoiler fitted to the car. If your wiring/fuse/sensor etc had a problem and wasn't working before you might have to ask some one locally to you to plug it into their car to try it. As its just a motor you may be able to look up via the wiring diagrams which wires would need power and earth, and just try it with a 12v battery.

inflate

Mines lifting in the same way, always thought one of the previous owners may have had dash out and not put it back properly. Could some of the thick backing be removed (non vinyl side) to take some of the strength out of the warping, then the vinly surface and thinner backing be glued back down easier. Should be less chance of relifting with less backing material trying to push upward.

Meaningful

stiff

Beer

Dropped

Maybe the old original key was worn and the new ones been cut to the worn shape rather than the right one. Might be that the the worn key and worn ignition still fitted together okay. Either that or the new ones just not quite right. Does it fot in the doors?

On my MkIII with the small block chevy, push fans in front of the rad never cooled enough, when i changed to the same cfm pull fans on the engine side all was fine. I think it was down to the pull fans blowing air out of the engine bay as much as pulling air through the rad. When they were running you could feel the warm air blowing out from underneath lowering engine bay temperature as well as cooling the rad. The push type fans would also be in the airflow prior to the rad and would presumably obstruct airflow. Dont rely on this as im no expert, but this is what i found from past experience

Its gets stranger, i just turned all 3 taps on together in the kitchen and bathroom, there was air bubble sounds then brown water came through and now hot and clear again. Maybe something is sticking or there was an airlock but it seems to be working again. Thank you for all your advice everyone, just hope it keeps going.

The heatings been on for two months now (missus is always cold even though she's in short sleeves still) so id be suprised if its frozen indoors. Do you mean the overflow that goes outside freezing, that may be possible

Shes sat on the wall in the kitchen

I have thought about that but dont fancy ending up with no heating as well as water, tempting though

Can we add my house to your association temporarily, then you can send someone round with a big bag of spanners

Hi all, i was bored yesterday and thought i'd write down all the things i want to get done over the winter whilst the sup's sort of off the road. I suprised myself by the length of the list; 1) Fit the HSD's i just bought 2) Change the fuel filter 3) Up rate to Walboro Fuel Pump 4) Change one foam bolster in the Recaros 5) Paint in rear tailgate recess where Mr T didnt bother 6) Fit front UK spec calipers i bought in February 7) Full geometry allignment 8) Bleed clutch fluid 9) Full Service 10) Revert back to stock Air Filter 11) Change IC pipes 12) Change Spigot rings on wheels 13) Put blanking cover in dash where A Spoiler switch was 14) Put switch on ariel to stop being up when CD player on 15) Tippex test crank damper 16) Check timing belt as slipped a tooth once before 17) Locate whining noise, possibly wheel bearing or ball joint affecting geometry 18) Change coil pack clips 19) Go BPU Im sure theres probably other jobs but i think that'll do for know Anyone else got a big to do list?[sHOCK][/sHOCK]

Id gladly employ someone myself but didnt have chance to phone around today and i suspect most plumbers would charge an arm and a leg in this weather

Its actually my boiler guys. I dont think the feeds frozen as the cold taps are working okay and all water to the house comes in in one big blue pipe. There is no water tank in the loft, and the vaillant boiler heats hot water as the taps are turned on. The hots taps aren't even giving a drip at the moment. It maybe the diverter valve as someone suggested, but ive no idea what this looks like!

Ive got UK brakes all round ready to fit along with some HSD's. Im gonna take the car off the road over the winter and sort all this ready for next year. I may well send you a pm when it dries up if im not sorted out before. Thanks

Great advice from you all, will speak to Paul tomorrow to sort out the parts i need. I know what you mean about getting bored with the power and always wanting more, i feel that way about the stock tt now. I have 265 Avons on the back at the moment and can easily spin them at 60mph in a straight line in the wet, might have to upgrade these at some point but they're nearly new. Its fine in the dry and i don't very often take it out in the rain anyway. Im glad no one has anything negative to say about BPU ant cant wait to get it done