2soops

I think I know what you mean, your saying if the centre metal sleeve is held straight then it shouldn't move if kept straight. Any idea why Toyota would put a rose joint in there?

Hi, bit of advice required please. When changing my rear wheel bearing at the weekend I noticed there was movement in the top aluminium suspension arm bushes. I removed the arm and if you hold the it steady, put a finger and thumb on the inner metal sleeve you can waggle it about 5mm in any direction. Assuming this mean't the bushes were shot I got a second hand replacement which seems to do exactly the same thing. Upon checking, I'm told by the seller this is normal and how they come from new. Can anyone confirm/deny this, or advise if theres a test i can do to to see if either of the arms are any good. Im confused as this just dosent seem to be the right way to have a suspension bush if you want the arm held steady Al:(

If its a normal 10mm bolt you can get sockets which only have 6 sides internally, not the usual 12. These are good at getting off rounded bolt heads so long as you haven't rounded it too far to be useful. Otherwise you could try to force an imperial socket on as the sizes are close but sometimes slightly smaller. Try 3/8 as this is only 9.5mm

Have you checked the 2 rubber bushes in the top arms, i just had the same problem with mine and both were shot. I dont understand how they made a clunk noise but they do

Ok Chris, thats a relief. Thank you once again, you are a star!

Got it all pressed back together, even cleaned and painted the hub, looks like new again. Just one last question, i clamped the wheel flange in a vice to hold it to rotate the hub to make sure all smooth, which it is, however if i put upward pressure on any of the ball joint arms i can feel very slight play in the new bearing. I just wanted to know if this is normal and will be taken up by the driveshaft nut. The bearing is definately pressed home, and i even re pressed it this morning just to be sure. I didn't want to put it back on the car until i know for sure all is well Cheers

Excellent, glad the flange is okay. I'l get it put back together again tomorrow. I didn't realise the bushes were plastic though, assumed they'd be rubber. Either way i'l put a new arm on. Thank you very much for your advice Chris, its been very helpful. If i lived a bit nearer to Shropshire i'd have let you do this, much less hassle for me.

Pressed it all out today, pictures attached. It looks fine to me but if you can see any problems Chris, please let me know before i put new bearing in tommorow. I have noticed another problem which may have resulted in me taking out a perfectly good bearing. The top aluminium suspension arm has loads of play, probably about 5mm and clonks on the 2 bush mountings. There has always been a clonk when accelerating/decelerating and i assume its this. Before stripping this apart and finding it, i thought it was play in the diff or driveshafts but obviously not. Could this have been the cause of what i thought was wheel bearing noise, where one wheel has been massiveley out of allignment. The noise used to be worse with a wider tyre and almost immediately put a black scuff mark on the outside inch of the tyre. It could be both reasons as it definately sounded like a bearing, but who knows. Any advice greatly appreciated. Cheers

I understand, thank you

Excellent advice Chris, havent done a lot to it today but will check it for sure when its out. Out of curiosity please could you tell me how the flange gets worn and needs replacing. Do the inner bearing shells spin on the flange, i trust what your saying but cant understand how the damage occurs

Bought a proper 14mm hex adapter for a half in drive socket, that combined with a 2 foot breaker bar and she popped of easy. Now just constructing a Heath Robinson support plate to use the press. Not sure about the welding idea!!!!!! but buying a new hub sounds a lot easier

Cheers Chris, i had a feeling they were both just very tight. I have a press, not a beast like yours though so hopefully it'll be up to the job. I'l make an adaptor plate of some sort and try to press it out tomorrow. Dont have air tools at home yet so i'l just have to persevere with the 14mm bolt. Thanks again

Hi All, Am changing a rear wheel bearing and have come across 2 problems i need a bit of help with, 1) Hub carriers off the car, however i have been trying to remove the hub flange so i can get at the bearing. As per an on line manual i have been using a slide hammer with a hub puller but with no sucess. Ive been pulling on it for a couple of hours solid until my arms hurt but it wont budge. Am i missing a trick here, is it siezed up or is there an easy way to pull the flange of? 2) on the back plate there is a 14mm allen key which holds on the handbrake springs. Does this just undo as ive broken a 14mm socket adaptor trying to shift it. It either dosent undo or is siezed. Again is there an easy way to undo this to get the back plate of? Any suggestions anyone has would be really appreciated as im getting hacked of with it now, and its only a matter if time before i break something or injure myself Cheers:helpsign:

Are you sure you've got a carb on that, if so could be the problem!!!!

Count me in please lui, have pm'd reg. Cheers

You guys are harsh. Went back to look today but work finished and car gone. Did chat with the garage man and it belongs to his father in law so it will be back, and when it does, SNAP Anyway i'm stfu now

I apologise too, I was a bit sarky with you. The noise you've described does sound like the free play you get between the clutch/thrust bearing/release arm rattling. Most cars do it to a certain extent depending on the free play. I am by no means a supra expert and it could well be the flywheel as others have suggested, i just put forward what i thought i may be Anyway mate, no hard feelings. Be great if you me know what it is when you do find out.

Nothing a quick buff wont sort out

I would but they'll be closed now. Will try tomorrow for sure

Just had a look at a TT Auto in the garage next to where i work. Some wanna be diy home stylist has cut a rather nice £50 glass sunroof into, well the roof. Apart from looking like criminal damage, it dosent even look as though it would be water tight due to the curve of the roof.[sHOCK][/sHOCK] I hope he'd taken it to the garage to get them to weld the hole back up. If i see it in there again i'l try to take some pictures!!

WoW, that told me!!! I just assumed it would be on tick over when you turned it off. If you refer to your quote above you definately say the rattle went away whilst having the clutch depressed when you turn it off. Am i getting confused between a rattle and a clatter? Was only trying to help!

I may be wrong but the clatter on tickover etc sounds more like the thrust bearing, especially if it goes away when you depress the clutch.

Cheers Chris, appreciate that. Just out of interest what problems would too much grease cause, i never realised it could be a bad thing. I just assumed any excess would be pushed to the outsides and do no harm.

Has been gone a couple of months, so probably will be other issues. How does it wear the shaft? I thought the ball bearings ran in inner and outer casings with these casings pressed onto the shaft and hub.

Its a 10 tonne also, maybe i should've gone 20!!! Im expecting it to be tough to get out as the heat from the glowing disk was enough to ruin the grease, but hopefully not to have welded anything together Does any type of high melting point grease mix with the toyota stuff?