2soops

Yes mate, your a legend, thankyou. I need the plugs 90189-04219 x6, 3 for each rear section of the arches. The diagram dosent show the front of the rear arch lip plugs for the skirt rear fixings though, theres only 2 there instead of 3 and they are round holes not square like the back ones. Dont suppose you can find a picture of those too

Not yet but theyre only small bits of plastic about the size of a pen lid and are hard to get out without breaking them. It's no problem getting new ones, just need the correct part numbers

No mate, not visible. The bits I'm after are the small plastic plugs that push through the holes in the lip on the rear wheel arch, then the skirts and spats are fixed to them with screws

Hi all, I need to get hold of the four little plastic wheel arch fittings the bolts screw into that are used to hold the back of the skirts and the same ones for the spats. I have checked with Steve Manley but he couldn't determine which ones they are as the images on Toyotas system are too blurry. Any help with a clearer picture showing part numbers or just the numbers themselves would be great as I don't want to order the wrong clips then have to return them. Thanks Al

The rubber donut is available from Toyota as I asked only Friday last week as I have exactly the same prop issues as you, they are over £200 each though. My centre bearing moves around just like yours, and both uj's have slight play which I'm told is from running too straight. Would be interested to know your findings as I've got to sort the same issues

I would lend a hand but don't have a clue about wiring so would probably be no help anyway, sorry. Maybe worth trying to find online wiring diagrams for each item to see what you need then follow the wires back from each component and remove wherever they join the Toyota loom

I have them all round on a 330 coupe, been to the ring twice on them and use as a daily and all is good. Grip well in the wet and dry but again my geometry isn't standard, it's set up for track use

Have you tried mot-ing it yet or are you assuming it will fail. Mine passes the emissions test every year with just the first cat in. You might find its fine as it is

Hi Paul, is £366 the best price on the arms as Steve Manley at Toyota has quoted me £375 each including VAT, I would save the postage too as I'm only just up the road so could collect from him. I appreciate your a shop and don't want to offend by haggling but just wondered if you may be able to do a better deal. Thanks

Rear upper wishbone arms, might be needing 2 very shortly, oh and bpu kits

Watching this with great interest as I bought Ryan's adaptor for the V8 to V160 so can go 6 speed with this engine. Any plans to do a twin turbo kit for the 1UZ Paul

Hi all, having had my MOT recently i noticed the rear of the car was starting to look a little shabby around the subframe and axle area, i decided to drop the rear end and do a complete refurb. I have removed everything except for the rear shocks and springs, and was a little horrified by what i have found. The car is a 1994 J spec TT 6 speed and was used as a daily for about 4 years when i bought it in 2004, and has spent most of the last 4 years cocooned in a nice dry garage. During removal i have found that the 2 small rear camber adjustment arms are seized and i cannot remove them (pretty standard on these i believe and probably will cut them out), the drivers side rear top arm bushes are shot, and the drivers side abs sensor destroyed itself on removal. I think i may also have an issue with the propshaft centre bearing as it seems loose and noisy. Apart from that i think alls well and just needs rust removal and paint with some new parts thrown in for good measure. I have posted some pictures and will try to do a few before and after ones as it should look like new when im done. I am suprised by how the surface rust has started to creep into the body work, as i had a mk3 previously which was a 1986 and the underside was perfect. I guess all these cars are getting older now and we should probably pay more attention to the underside. If anyone has any experience with removing subframe bushes could they please pass on any hints and tips. I would like to get the subframe shot blasted and powder coated, but dont want to destroy the bushes taking them out as they are fine, albeit rusted in. I have put a couple of shots of the floor in, one showing the rust, the second cleaned and rust killer applied, quite a few more areas to do im afraid. I will get the floor body done first and sort other parts in the order they will be going back on. I dont have a lot of spare time so will probably update this thread weekly as i do any work at weekends. If anyone has a picture of the axle with part numbers this would be realy helpful as i think there will be a few visits to Mr T in near future.

Mine was the passenger side also, I don't think it's the puddles, more likely that there's always way more potholes at the edge of the road, hence they take more of a beating on that side. I'd wait and do the other one when it goes. Hope you got new inner and outer seals when you got the bearing, personally I wouldn't put the old ones back in

Im off there with some mates this year in October for 5 days, 3rd time for me in 2 years. I have to agree its highly addictive and without doubt a fantanstic albeit expensive experience. At a rough guess i'd say it costs me £1500 a time to go but thats including all travel, accomodation, food, beer, fuel and ring laps. My brother has the bug bad, and last time did 32 laps and about 6 tanks of fuel just at the ring itself, thats a grand alone. Best piece of advice i could give anyone would be to prepare your car properly before you go, no point going with ling long tyres or crap brakes, and engine and driveline must be in A1 condition. Before i went last year i changed the entire cooling system, engine, diff and gearbox oil, replaced the disks and pads and had a full geometry allignment. I would also look at the nurburgring website in detail, and look at the horrifying list of charges you can be hit for. The potential loss is UNLIMITED and no UK insurer will cover you on a tourist day Finally, never drive more than 90% of your ability, always leave a margin for error. It may not be you, but there are hundreds of idiots out there in badly prepared cars with little or no experience trying to drive as fast as possible round an unfamiliar piece of dangerous and twisty tarmac with no real run off areas. My brother was forced onto the grass by a Belgian last year at 100mph, he was lucky and didnt crash as theres only 6 feet of grass between the track and barrier where it happened. I do love the ring, but every time i go the financial consequenses of a crash scare me silly, its always in the back of your head and spoils the experience a bit. I can understand why UK insurers dont cover it, but they need to sort something out. Everyone should go at least once in their life though as its an awesome place

Getting the hub offs the easy bit, you'll ned a 10 tonne press to actually change the bearing

Thanks Nic, don't suppose you know if this is definately the larger bore master cylinder. Are all UK spec ones the same as i don't want to end up with one the same bore as ive got already. Sory to be a pain

Was hoping someone may be able to help and provide a part number for a brake master cylinder. My car started as a Jspec TT Auto, but is now a 6spd Manual. I am about to upgrade to UK brakes, and read on here the upgrade often leaves a spongy feeling brake pedal. I assume this is because of the extra pistons in the Uk set up, and slightly more fluid being required to push them out. I spoke to Toyota earlier about whether the UK brakes had a larger master cylinder for the extra pistons, and they confirmed there are 4 different part numbers for varying sizes/models/years. They couldn't however tell me which was the largest internal diameter. Does anyone on here know a part number for the larger spec master cylinder so i can get one ordered, my car also has abs if that makes a difference. Thanks for any help Al

Hi all, hope this thread is in the right place first of all. Basically, I have bought 2 sets of the GS300 wheels to keep the best ones and make a perfect set. This has left me with the following parts spare and I was hoping someone might be able to help with an idea of values so I can list them in the for sale section. Firstly, there is one 10j rear wheel which is good on the face side, but has had a couple of cracks welded/repaired on the rear. Would make an ideal spare for anyone with a cracked one. Secondly, an 8.5j front which has 3 one inch cracks to the rear and a good amount of curbing to the face. Again it could be returned to make a good spare. Finally and probably best of all a set of the plastic TTE centre caps in good condition complete with the locking bolts and key. I will try to add some pictures later on but am away from my pc for a bit Thanks

No probs, if you need it just let me know Al

Hi mate, if you don't have any luck with your local guy I have my old one sat in the garage here you can have foc next time I'm down in Plymouth, probably August time. Nothing wrong with it as far as I know, just changed to an fmic.

I will phone the guy tomorrow and see what sort of deal i can talk him out of, results to follow

Thanks for all the compliments To answer a couple of questions. I had them custom made so they are a one of set, but that's not to say I couldn't get some more done. As for cost, this set was £200 however now they have the machining program's worked out, any more would presumably be cheaper. The guy that made them also said he thought the logo would look better slightly larger. It's 80 mm at the moment but he said doing 100 mm would be easy enough. If theres enough interest and the mods are okay with it I could get some prices for a bulk order, say 5 or more sets.

Saw one Black and one Silver at the Nordschleife this weekend, both on foreign plates but maybe you are on here

Well, i finally managed to get the machine shop to finish of the centre caps for me, below are pictures of the front, back and laid on top of a diamond cut and black rear. The rears of the cap havent been machined out to match the originals but they have left a thicker band of metal round the edge. This does make them slightly heavier but they are stronger. In the pictures they appear to be a different finish from the wheel, however it is bare aluminium and not powder coated yet like the wheel. I think i will have to paint the machined in logo black, then get them powder coated clear. I am well pleased with these as they look awesome even just laid on the wheel:)

I have some being made with a diamond cut finish and supra logo cut into centre at the moment. The company whoose making them for me has been delaying it for nearly 4 months already, and i should give them another chase, been another 3 weeks since i spoke to them. If anyone else gets some done first, id be interested