David P

These might help. http://www.alloywheels.com/Tyre_Calculator http://www.willtheyfit.com/ http://www.rimsntires.com/specs.jsp

I've moved my indicators into the side-lights and the side lights are now Angel Eyes where the indicators were and gained a pair of spot lights in the equation.

Keron has Supra's with after market bonnets with broken fronts yet recyclable vents. Try him?

With the wire there and doing what it's supposed to, you could tidily connect it into the loom below the block.

ICV or split/broken vacuum hose. Plenty of used ones about for the cost of a couple of pints. Note: N/A and T.T. ICV's are different. First check that the one you have is plugged in properly.

You've been busy. Maybe you'll find it's too hot for the UEGO sensor located that close to the turbo?

The exhaust manifold has 10 layers of wrap and UEGO sensors don't like it too hot, located back there it's in the correct working-temp range. There's more to be done to the exhaust yet, but that job alone was just one straw short of breaking the camel, but the most important job has been jobbed. I'm going to reduce the tail-pipe size from 3.5" ID down to 3", fit another EGT sensor to the front of mid-pipe, make a new branch-section incorporating a small-resonator, then re-fit the OE heat-shield and tunnel-brace. New 3" bore 4" OD stainless-steel tail-pipe AEM EGT gauge sensor and fitting Present (and failing) Y branch section Donor Skyline 3" bore stainless-steel resonator

The wide-band EUGO sensor has a new home at the rear of the mid-pipe and is back in the loop, I can now use boost again, once my spine's back up to it. Thank you very much James for your help.

Angle grinder with sanding disc and take 1 mm off of the callipers.

If it's traction your wanting, then the 19" need to go.

Looks like you'll need to pay your subs to find out?

It looks like he couldn't make his mind up whether to paint it silver, blue or red. So covered it up with badges and stickers.

Been looking for this thread. SARD Arouse, 3" mid-pipe and Autobahn88 headers. (no cats) Mine is supercharged, but the exhaust sound would be very much the same normally aspirated.

Maybe you should ask a Mod to move this thread to here? http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/forumdisplay.php?35-MVP-Motorsports

I've just had an "Ureka moment". The random intermittent miss-fire Gremlin is; Heat from the headers expanding the TPS casing, causing the signal voltage to arc, causing the timing to twitch. It's happening too fast for the ECU to correctly display the fault and it showed up in a related knock sensor circuit. When fitted it was a "jumpy sensor" and needed to be set at a full twist to give a clean sweep without reading the top of the scale whilst at the bottom, now with a full bonnet, at tickover under bonnet temp is up, which is why it didn't happen on the dyno and why it dithers in and out with the thermostat controlled fans when standing at tick-over and why it doesn't happen when driving and why it goes away and hides when I open the bonnet to look for it. I'll swap it for another from my collection that's happier to live with the throttle-body and insulate/ventilate to remedy.

Solid mounts and 4" exhaust pipery means, your Dentist is going to be busy.

It compensates for the weight loss maybe?

The driveshafts with Large casing diff one is shorter on the near-side. You've got your widths and lengths confuddled.

I used 5 litres on mine, but it still needs a touch up on the sill and transmission tunnel. I suggest you stop when it's black and save the remaining dye for touching up.

The conundrum deepens, maybe Mr T. just substituted the earlier thicker T.T. shafts with the original N/A spec for all small-casing diff applications. I've just spent half an hour searching, but can't re-find find the info I mentioned. Not what I was looking for, but a little more info. http://www.supraforums.com.au/forum/a80-mkiv-discussion/81034-more-driveshaft-help-replacement-not-identical.html