David P

That's another conundrum. T.T. shafts are thicker than N/A shafts, but over time Mr T. has reduced the diameter of both, so an early N/A shaft is around late T.T. dimensions. I found the dimensions and years info on a U.S. forum once, but can't find it again.

Where it gets rubbed it will fade over time, but these will be easy to get at bits that you can freshen-up now and again with more dye.

Yes, but you'll need to swap the prop-shaft because the large-casing diff has a longer nose than a small-casing diff. You'll only need to change one drive-shaft.

As long as they're both small-casing-diffs there's no need to swap the drive-shafts, it's a plug&play fit, but you may need to swap the prop-flange on diff. Input appreciated. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?285699-Supra-Prop-shaft-lengths-and-fitting

Has carbon-fibre gone out of fashion?

Any old 14?mm socket.

Me no, I'm every Engineers worst nightmare. Only last week I used Super Glue on plastics and it took 2 days to bond, how long does it take on stainless steel at this time of year?

That's an offer I can't refuse. Thank you very much. I'll telephone you at a sociable hour to discuss my "bits". Looking forwards to showing her off too.

That's exactly what I'm doing, just the 'them' bit to sort out.

The length cannot be determined from a two-piece prop, it must be measured from transmission to diff flange without do-nut. Full details given in first post. With this info, mixing and matching two piece props or having a bespoke one-piece made will become a lot simpler. That's why the vacant list includes diffs both large and small.

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/content.php?52-Air-Conditioning-System

Maybe you should p.m. "first dibs" to Keron?

This would be useful information to have collated, if you know any of these dimensions or have the opportunity to measure, please post it up and I'll update the list. The N/A 4AT and N/A 5MT diffs have a smaller-diameter prop-flange and the N/A 6MT, T.T. 4AT and T.T. MT6 have a larger-diameter flange, but they're both the same length. Prop-shafts with a sliding-yoke front cannot be mixed and matched with a flange-fronted prop because the flange-fronted props incorporate a slip-yoke in the centre-joint. With some of these dimensions given, others can be calculated. N/A auto: End of output-shaft splines to face of small-casing diff-flange without rubber do-nut = 43.5" W58: End of output-shaft splines to face of small-casing diff-flange without rubber do-nut = ? W58: End of output-shaft splines to face of large-casing-diff flange without rubber do-nut = ? R154: End of output-shaft splines to face of small-casing diff-flange without rubber do-nut = ? R154: End of output-shaft splines to face of large-casing-diff flange without rubber do-nut = ? T.T. auto: Face of transmission-flange to face of small-casing diff-flange without rubber do-nut = ? T.T. auto: Face of transmission-flange to face of large-casing-diff flange without rubber do-nut = ? V160/1: Face of transmission-flange to face of small-casing diff-flange without rubber do-nut = ? V160/1: Face of transmission-flange to face of large-casing-diff flange without rubber do-nut = ?

It's a lot easier with a hard copy of the Supra Bible, but you'll find it here in Chapter "I", if it doesn't send you "Barking" first. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/content.php?64-Electrical-Diagrams

I'll be pleased when the job is completely jobbed. There are 2 sensor bosses that need welding into the mid-pipe and I've been looking around to have the job done with stainless wire, so avoiding further encouragement of anodic oxidation. However, about all you can get in Kettering; is a cup of coffee and a Parking Ticket. There aren't any places local that can do this yet one found at Northampton that wants what works out to be, £300 per hour to do it. "We can do it today Sir." "I wonder why? No you won't! Goodbye." Stainless steel welding rods £5.80 with free P&P. I'll whip it out and do it myself in half an hour, as soon as my back is feeling a little happier.

Looking like you need to fix your computer before you can fix your car.

The link takes me to page one of the Toyota Supra Workshop Manual (Bible) Steering Chapter. If it doesn't work for you, go to the "Home Page" and find it from there.

Page 1 of the 56 pages of the Supra Bible that will answer your questions.

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/content.php?76-Steering

That part is the "snorkel".

I meant for your arm.

Gotchya! Photoshop anyone.

Do you have "A LOMPA" tattooed on your right fore-arm?

It's normal.

Face-lift Tiptonic Supra wheel with Celica Gen 3 centre and TRD horn-badge.