David P

Not in a U.K. spec auto RobUK.

Rear knock sensor error is a timing related malfunction and your engine does sound as if it could be 'pinking' when blipped? I have a very similar yet annoyingly intermittent fault which I suspect to be a faulty Throttle Position Sensor.

If Rog doesn't take this, I will.

Only if you have the Fillitup geometry settings.

Stick your finger in it, if it's battery acid you'll soon find out. I'd guess it more likely to be water that finds it's way to the battery tray from the bonnet/wing gutter.

What comes out, is what goes in. Be brave and open the bonnet and your eyes at the same time.

Torsen is an abbreviation for Torque sensing LSD. You should try looking elsewhere on the interweb sometimes, it's amazing what can be learned without confusion from Old Supra Wives Tales.

That equates to as many little drips under it as you could get in it.

Supra's were supplied with either an Open or Torsen diff and labelled as above, there are also several different after-market options. Your left-kicking sounds like the geometry is in need of alignment and/or you could be losing traction on the muck that's not swept off the nearside road cambers these days.

Since my encounter with a monster drain hole, the car has been handling like a pig and cocking a front wheel when reversing on full lock. It felt as if the rack was bent, yet I haven't been able to find any damage and there's no tyre edge feathering. Today I'm up and about a bit, so went and pestered the friendly local tyre and geometry workshop. The front tracking and camber was found to be exactly as previously set, yet the rears were both equally toeing in, just out of the; green for good enough for them scale on the readout. The 40 profile front tyres had seen better days so had them changed for the Pilot Sport 45's I wanted to try and had the rear tweaked back as close as could be to stock settings. The car drives much better with stock profile tyres on the 18's and these works have transformed the handling from task to pleasure. However, the front tyres now catch the arch a little at full lock so the car now needs raising by 10mm front and rear and will then need another geometry reset. Hey ho.

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?56684-FAQ-Oil-Fluid-Interval-Capacity-Steering-Brake-Coolant-Diff-Engine&highlight=oil+spark+plugs If your Supra hasn't been tinkered with the vin plate code will tell you if it's Open or Torsen. A02A = Open = Number 1's. A02B = Torsen = Number 11's.

If it's under the passenger floor it's the air-con drip pipe. If it's under the passenger wing it's the charcoal filter drip pipe.

His English is the correct standard to be a member on here.

There looks to be no flex in that top hose arrangement to allow for engine movement? If you've fitted solid mounts somewhere during the previous 286 pages, just ignore me.

Supramemole, but don't hold your breath.

Two nuts hold them O.K. or you can drill and tap another hole if it makes you happy. Changing the distributor cap makes no difference to timing.

You're a better Googler than I am. That gets me halfway there. Thank you. I blanked with Google and have been to both of those sites and used their searches yet found nothing, maybe my spelling's too good. All I need now are the pre VVTI 1J-GE specs.

Looking for camshaft specifications for 1J-GTE and GE (pre VVTI spec). I've searched the interweb yet failed, does anyone have this information, or a link to it please?

Fit a water/meth injection kit and this cleaning process happens all the time.

50/50 split, or 2 to 1 with a sense of humour if I'm included? My virtual garage is full of word association cracks, you'd hate it!

According to the forecast, there'll be plenty of white ones for a few more weeks.

Yes

That would look as stealthy as a black man chasing a black cat in a coal hole at midnight.