kjgreen3

May sound dumb but, halfords screenwash is scented (forest pine that kind of thing) its not that your smelling after using your wiper jets?

Ok bit of an update, as its only a tiny leak I thought I would change all the OEM hose clamps dealing with the coolant lines for good old jubilee clips. Did this last saturday and topped up the coolant and refilled the expansion bottle to the max mark (after a full bleed of the system). Taken her for a drive, got her up to temp. Drove hard for 10 mins and went home, left idling and put some paper under the engine where it was leaking. After idling for 10 mins didn't notice and pink/red marks on the paper. Hopefully this is the issue resolved. Will monitor coolant level (before and after) every time I drive for the next month or so just to make sure. Fingers crossed

I'm assuming you mean the serpentine belt that drives the alternator, air con and power steering pulleys and not the timing belt. If so grease and oil on the belt is a NO NO. I've checked the Supra Maintenance Guide and when changing the timing belt it says not to get any contaminates (oil, grease, dirt even water!) on it. I assume the same is for the serpentine belt. IIRC a common problem is alignment, start the engine with the bonnet up and have a look at that belt at 90 degrees to the engine (look down the length of the belt) and see if you can see it shifting from the front to the back of any of the pulleys. Alternatively get a piece of largish diameter pipe put one end next to your ear and use the other end (bit like a stethoscope!) to trace where the noise is coming from, NOTE BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO GET THE PIPE OR YOUR HAND TOO CLOSE TO ANY MOVING PARTS WHILST THE ENGINE IS RUNNING!! Another possible cause is the tensioner bearing may have worn out, this is the smallest of the pulley wheels around about 3 inches in diameter and its sole use is to take out any slack in the belt. If its not been changed in a fair few years this could be the cause of your squeeking. If neither of these provide the cause, it could be your viscous fan is on its way out or mis-aligned (are all the blades intact, no chips or missing blades?) due to adverse vibration or old age. Other members may also be able to provide some better advise. HTH in the mean-time.

Thanks will bear him in mind if I can't easily remedy the problem myself, don't really want to chance a longish journey until I know the nature and severity of the leak. As if i have a severe coolant loss and don't turn the engine off in time I could blow the head gasket/warp the head. Even if I do turn it off in time 'heat soak' with little or no coolant could still cause expensive damage. Could get it trailered I suppose, but I'm a stubborn **** and quite handy with tools (as long as I have the necessary information to carry out repairs) and would like the sense of pride and one-up-manship from sorting this b*gger out. A sort of two fingers to the awe and mystery of the 2jz cooling system!

If I get time tomorrow after work I may detach some pipework/ancillaries to get a better look at the source of the leak. Otherwise I will have a proper look at it this weekend. If you get a chance I would be grateful the next time you are at home if you can get a pic of where that hard pipe goes and how its attached to the block, I'm 90% sure its something to do with that pipe 'as I think I'm right' that it doesn't see pressure until the stat opens, that is when I've noticed the coolant starts leaking. Thanks again.

Ok if thats correct would the there be any harm in blocking off that hard pipe temporarily to see if that fixes the coolant leak, could do with finding out how that attches to the block, as if it has a rubber O ring seal or something that may have perished over time/engine vibration and be causing the leaking issues. Any idea what is necessary to gain acces to that pipe. Is it pretty much an exhaust manifold turbos off situation based on that pic? Thanks for your replies been very helpful.

Would that kind of leak on the rear of the water pump actually travel to the back of the block and drip down the pipe I've arrowed in red? I had a good look from the underside (with a bright torch) of the car over the weekend (4 corners on axle stands), and couldn't see any coolant residue on the pump or on components below where it could have dripped onto. Only leaking onto the rear of the front subframe assembly and tracked it to that hard pipe in picture. Couldn't pinpoint it though as it goes between the back of the block and firewall and cannot get a good view of it from the bay or underside. To expand on this I had a leaking rad a month or so ago and swapped it out for a new aftermarket alloy, with new 1.1 bar rad cap. Was still loosing coolant from expansion tank. Traced it finally to a tiny pinhole fissure on a small segment of rubber hose above the alternator. Swapped that out for new hose. All seemed good for a week not loosing coolant, but now this. Seems like the cooling system is systematically finding the next weakest link to exploit the next leak from. Hopefully once this issue has been solved it will be the end of it. Quick question, As I don't track the car or race the engine for long periods at high revs. Would it be better to fit an 0.9 bar rad cap to protect the system and possibly extend heater matrix life. Oh the matrix works fine really hot air, no wet footwell in passenger side, stat works fine opens after 5-6 mins on idle from cold. Changed 3 years ago along with a new water pump.

Will check it tomorrow after work and update this thread, too dark now. Is that hard pipe circled in red, the pipe that goes into one side of the heater matrix or does it feed the coolant to the block/head? Just need to know in case it needs removing, as it would be easier if it did go to the heater matrix. I did notice old crusty deposits on the hardpipe join to the rubber hose going into the passenger firewall, but no leaks. With the engine running it is leaking a drop every couple of seconds from where the red arrow is. No visible leaks when looking at the coolant pipes from above ie. rad feed/return and those pipes going into the passenger firewall. I'm thinking its that hardpipe, or possible something at the back of the block above it with a bad join/pinhole leak as the leaking coolant is only visible on the hard pipe arrowed in red.

Can anyone help? Unfortunately I'm not very near any of the authorised/recommended traders (I'm base in sheffield) for them to have a look otherwise I would drive it to one of them and they could help sort the issue. Ideally i would like to know if this job is do-able by myself, or a complete ball-ache and therefore best taking to a garage. Cheers all.

Lol, looks like the bay has been painted with used engine oil. Loving the bright red cam cover sealant too!

Ok sorry to bump this old thread, but i seem to be having a similar problem as the OP. I have a slight coolant leak from the (red arrowed) hardpipe, its dripping from where the green arrow is. This picture is from someone elses thread as I couldn't get a decent picture of my leak due to a turbo and associated ancillaries being in the way. I'm probably loosing around a litre of coolant every 100-150 miles, only when engine is hot, doesn't seem to be losing any when engine is cooled/not running. I am wondering if anybody has had this problem and knows how to rectify it. I think its leaking where the hard pipe enters the block at the back. Is it a straight forward fix? Or do I have to remove the turbo, exhaust housing (like in the pic) to remove the hard pipe? The leak as it stands isn't too bad but I don't want to be driving and have a catastrophic coolant loss causing a BHG. Any relevant input appreciated, cheers.

Haven't bought from this company in years but at that time they were very cheap for even small quantities. Best to ring them and get them to give you a price. http://www.bapp.co.uk/products/general-bolting Let us know if they're any good as I may give them a ring for some replacement bolts

Might be a little soon for this one but here goes........ "Get your tickets for the costa concordia lottery" ................................ "Apparantly its a rollover!" Budum-tish!

Agreed, would only relocate the battery to the boot if I got an air start motor somewhat like mad max 2. Check out the sound they make its awesome!

Useful table for AWG loading and volt drop. http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

Think he may have meant for the starter motor, most small engined cars need around 200A to get started, would think the supra may need ~300A. Diesel are even worse with the higher compression they may even take upto 600A. Hence why cold cranking capacity of batteries are normally between 300-750A. Ages ago I had zero guage cable jump leads 3m long and when trying to start a difficult engine (not a supra but a large cc engine) managed to get them so hot (10 attempts, 5 secs crank) they melted the plastic. There is a reason the battery is mounted in the engine bay as close as possibly to the starter motor. If using 0 Guage its only rated to 150A so as long as its protected by a ~150A (hence why main fuse is 120A on a supra, although main positive to starter may be unfused because its a short run) fuse you will be ok. Personally I would run thicker than 0 guage as long cranking could cause overheating/fire issues if you intend to relocate the battery to the boot.

Depends what you want, cheaper you go less functionality and more labour costs in sorting out documentation and the actual testing. You can get moving needle ones (think old skool voltmeter) but if the person using it is a layman he could end up frying expensive IT power supplies etc (Test voltage for megger test on 240V equipment is 500V! except IT and sensitive kit which is allowed to be tested at 250V). For a couple of hundred quid you could get that moving coil type, second hand. Will do the job in experienced hands. But long term it will cost you more as I stated above. Alternatively go for the one I suggested (which is very user/layman friendly) 'OR' one of roughly similar spec ease of use. Second hand you are talking £400-500, or possibly hire one for a day or two from an electrical contracting company to do the testing each year. No offense but if you and your fellow PAT testers haven't been on the approved PAT course and are intimately familier with electrical appliances you could end up frying a lot of equipment. I have seen it before many times, hence why that company turned everything off at your place of work before testing as it saves a lot of possible problems and makes their job quicker and easier to carry out. I routinely recommend to my clients that they remove/throw away unwanted kettle leads and other such testable items not in service. Also if you hardwire (via isolators/switchgear instead of a plug/commando socket) many fixed items (server racks, dedicated testing equipment that stays on the same bench etc) they generally don't fall under the scheme of testing (or are tested under the scope of an 'electrical installation test' carried out every 5-10 years) or are subject to testing once every 2 or 3 years (less damage can occur due to the fact they cannot be classed as portable and moved about if they are hardwired ie. without a plug). Most PAT companies take the p*ss and schedule testing every year or (4 times a year if site equipment) when infact its bespoke to the appliance and the nature of its use. For example a 110V drill may need testing every 3 months as its subjected to bad conditions/rough handling, however a desktop PC or a fridge may only need testing every few years as its not moved about. HTH

Hi, Im a qualified Electrician and during tough economical times (or when short of work) I do PAT testing as its money for old rope. Been doing it for 10 years anything from 5 items for a client at a time to 4000 items for a client (Yes I wanted to shoot myself in the face after that job, watching paint dry is more interesting). Anyway I digress. This is the PAT machine I have had (bought second hand 7 years ago for £800) and it has never let me down. Comes with 90% of the leads you need (some 3 phase testing 'RED Commando plugs' may need to be made up to test that equipment). Its simple to use, has step by step instructions throughout the test, also you can use it with a barcode scanner and that will same time when testing the same item. Stores 4000 results and can be linked with a serial cable to the computer to upload into a PAT software program. http://pat-training.co.uk/alphatek_omega_pat.htm Almost like the supra of PAT machines as it seems to be holding its value well, thought it may have been cheaper by now considering how much I paid. HTH

Good to know even Crows like watching some fisti-cuffs. Flip side to your video. Not all crows crave violence, some have a tender side.

Agreed, transmitting drive at up to 200,000rpm via CVT to the compressor on the turbo would suggest long term reliabity issues and the instantaneous torque from larger cc engines could break the relatively small CVT when revving/accelerating hard. Could be viable in small less torquey engines though, to improve acceleration and fuel economy.

Browsing the 'tube' and stumbled across this. Seems a viable technology for smaller engined cars, whether its suitable in a supra who knows? Thoughts?

Ah Castleton, know it well. Climbed one of the tallest trees opposite the entrance to the devils arse could see for miles! Its a good B-road from sheffield to there and I've taken the supe on that run a number of times. They have some nice pubs there which serve pretty good food.

Might be worth investing in a small portable generator if only to power the fridge/freezer and the house lighting. If you don't open the fridge/freezer regularly you would only have to run the generator for 10 mins every couple of hours or so. Overnight as long as the doors stay shut the contents would be fine for around 6-8 hours before starting to defrost.

I enjoyed the original mini-series because I think Stephen King had more control of the movie, may even have been executive producer. I enjoy the fact he casts unknown actors in main roles to get as much realism from the same character in his books. I am much more excited about his 'magnum opus', THE DARK TOWER (7 books highly recommend reading them) being made into a movie and also corresponding tv series to run concurrently, Think X-Men 1 as a movie, X-Men 2 as a 12 part tv series then X-Men 3 as a movie. All with the same cast playing the main characters involved. See: http://screenrant.com/dark-tower-movie-trilogy-tv-series-ross-77542/ Also: http://www.darktowermovies.com/ Seems to be a tall order for a studio to commit, But to me its no different than the Lord of the Rings, upcoming Hobbitt Trilogies in terms of the length, budget and long term casting. Look how sucessful LOTR was. To get back to your original point a remake will have to have King on-board making the important decisions with a large budget and maybe have to be split like Kill Bill as its a lengthy adaptation to be worth watching IMO. Or just get Christopher Nolan to direct it and his brother to write the screenplay. Find a way for Christian Bale to play a main character. Get dreamworks to finance it and it will probably be the biggest grossing movie of that year!

Think I may be missing some maths teaching from being able to complete this, S.O.C.A.H.T.O.A and pythagoras' theorem aren't enough. I think breaking it up into triangles is the right way of finding a solution though. Gonna go buy a 12.5' ladder and borrow a 3 foot barrel and get my tape measure out to solve this one..........