Kranz

Unashamedly bumped!! Now for sale on Pistonheads. Anyone like to make an offer??????

Nobody even going to ask about it????

currently Removed From Sale

Fixed it after a search on the forums for o/d light flashing. Ian C was right. I'd not fully connected the Trac feedback potrntiometer connector on the throttle body.

It stays in first.... and the Maun button doesn't work at any time. Is this the same as yours????

KWP-2000 is Key Word Protocol I think.... Can is + and - can wires in a twisted pair communicating every sensor & control system throught the two wires via a can bus system. VPW??? Variable Pulse Width???

Check all the hose clamps are tight. A 1/4 drive socket is much better than a screwdriver, but be careful of overtightening as they break

Its worth cleaning up the head while its off to: 1) Get the crap off the back of the valve heads 2) Remove the carbon build up in the exhaust ports 3) take out the rough machining marks and casting flash that producton leaves behind 4) Give you something to do when the Mrs wants you out of the house Doesn't hurt to clean it up before putting it back on. p.s. anyone got a spare head I can fettle before swapping them over when I do the valve stem seals??

Limp home mode (or Limited Operations System) is a default to a safe set of maps in the ECU when a fault is found in an engine sensor that would be, or could be, terminal if the engine would carry on running as normal. It is normally reduced maximum fuelling (therefore reducing power & speed), retarded timing, no EGR (if there is EGR fitted), lower boost and other changes designed to ignore sensor inputs as they may be whacko! It should not damage the engine, but will be poor performance and economy and in the long term may result in further problems. Its designed to allow the car to be driven to a garage and fixed... no more than that. Sounds like you have an engine sensor up the spout that needs sorting. Best get it done sooner rather than later.

I'm liking that martin!! If I come back to Thornbury sometime any chance of a quick peek??? Steve

Its 8 hours between bottle & throttle for pilots.... but some of them still manage to turn up to fly half cut !! If you have had mouthwash then it takes around 20 minutes to 'leave' your mouth/throat. You have the option of waiting 20 mins if you want to. If you haven't drunk it then it won't be in your blood, so won't come out of your lungs when you blow. Driving with a hang over is probably as bad as drink driving. How good are your reactions whan you have a splitting head ache, feel sick & are still feeling a bit pissed? Lol Martin. Clients to me, customers to Doug! This is an emotive subject. There are people on here who's friends, relatives & loved ones have been killed by drink drivers. There may even be people on here who have convictions. My brother has. He was stupid. He lost his licence, got a heavy fine & was refused citizenship when he emmigrated to Canada with his Canadian wife. I'm no angel. I've probably driven in the past when I had a few the night before and wasn't quite up to it, but that was a long time ago and I'm not that silly anymore. I've seen what it does to individuals and families. I've sat with the body, bagged them up, broken the news to the parents........ It breaks my heart every time. But what does it do to the bereaved? If you are one of those that thinks drink driving is okay you have an open invitation to the next RTC I attend where a drink driver has mown down some innocent person. Stand back, take a look...... Then tell me and tell person's family that it does no harm. I'll get off my soap box now.....

Zero tolerance for drink driving. It will get the mesage home that you can't be in control of a vehicle on the road with any alcohol in your system. The amount of drink drivers out there is astounding. I regularly get them, probably one every two weeks. And this is just because they are driving strangely. Those that can keep the vehicle straight and not attract attention get away with it all the time. I've also had to deal with the carnage they leave behind, and they often flee the scene of an accident, usually leaving someone injured or dying. When you've had to hold a young girl's hand and watch her die infront of you (I won't describe it any further) due to someone drinking & driving then you'll have no sympathy for them. Zero tolerance for a reason.

Knackered XR2 full of chavs pulls alongside at traffc lights. Driver winds his window down & shouts "Wanna swap mate??". Yeah, like over my dead body!!!!

Exactly Stealth. Sometimes you just can't do anything due to circumstances. In this case they obviously couldn't ignore it. I regularly do 55 to 60 in a 30... at work. Even then its max concentration and with the flashy waily things on to warn drivers/padestrians. Without them & the proper training, care, attention etc its pure lunacy. And if I make a mistake, have an accident, go through a Pc Gatso too fast I find mself stuck on & in court..... for doing my job! Its 30 for a reason. Respect it or expect the consequences

Tesco 99 RON is ok, but a cheap substitute for Optimax. BP Ultimate is a close second to Optimax. You get what you pay for..... Don't use 95 RON in an import Supe, its not supposed to use anything less than 100!! However, 98/99 will do. Its not just down to the RON number, but also the MON number (which isn't advertised). I'd expect that the Optimax has the best combined RON & MON, giving a better all round fuel.

Was giving it some leptons away from the traffic lights this morning and all of a sudden I hit a fuel cut (must have been around 120 leptons)... then the o/d off and t/c off lights started flashing alternately. Drives ok, and o/d works but the lights keep flashing after shutdown & re-start. Any ideas??? I have a speed delimiter btw.

The legal limit is 75% light transmission on front windscreen & 70% on drivers & passengers windows. There's no limit for the back windows. If you look at factory tint windows these are around the legal limit. VOSA are doing roadside checks with their tint meter & issuing fixed penalties for those that fail.

Yeah, about right for this time of year, though watch the temps & see what its running like. You want oil to not go above 125 at any time.

Wish I could afford it Maybe one day. Have fun at the 'ring'. And watch out for the tourist busses

Showed it to the Mrs the other day. She said it'd be handy to stash her vibrator

Welcome Juan! You'll find all you need here... advice, help, parts & discounts too. Steve

The stock sensor is probably reading in the head, where the temp will remain the highest for longest due to the amount of heat the engine retains. The guage reading lower (60) is because it is in a pipe away from the engine and the coolant in this pipe has cooled down. 94 sounds hot for oil though... depending on how long it had been since you'd been out? To find which is which, start from a cold engine. The coolant will heat up faster than oil. Steve

Have you tried checking the fuses??

Yep, same for rears... only it has one piston. If you're going to change the seals then best do both sides. The piston bores may need a light hone to bring them up to perfect condition & the pistons may need cr*p buffing off them with some 800 wet & dry.... Have fun!

I'm getting a GSD soon. Will see if I can train it to change gear on a manual..... Makes the car a semi automatic??