Kranz

Mention solicitors & small claims court and tell them you're going to get a quote from Toyota.... at least £1000 including a part respray??? That should put the wind up them

How about this chaps.... I once went on a course with work called Drive & Survive as I used to be an engine calibration engineer that involved lots of extreme test driving (those were the days) LOL. The course was run at the TRL test track in Chobham & my instructor was Viki Butler-Henderson's little brother (GT Chmpionship racer in Marcos team). What an experience! We did: Advanced vehicle dynamics (perception techniques, slalom, advanced high speed driving etc) Skid pan Extreme speed lane change manouvres Emergency braking with & without ABS Defensive driving... even a bit of J turns etc It was a thouroughly excellent day and we got through plenty of sets of tyres Is this something that members on here may be interested in doing in the safety of a large test track with plenty of run off space??? Perhaps in their own cars to learn and recognise the limits??? I think it was approx £400 for the day but that was usingf their cars....... Should be less. http://www.drivesurvive.co.uk/improving-control-skills-advanced-vehicle-dynamics.asp

If I win the lottery tonight I'll have it off you...... I guess in the current market it would be anywhere from £13K to £15K???? Depends on what people are prepared to pay.

Fusi, If you want to know about the engine and if it has any problems I can send an oil analysis kit to the seller to get a small amount of the engine oil checked in a laboratory. See this: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=69301 the results will come back to me a few days later and I can email the results to you with a full explanation of any problems. I analyse the oil from my Supra at every oil change & have results to compare yours with. I also used to do this (amongst other engine design & calibration work) for a living in my last job! It costs only a few euros and is better than a compression check. Let me know if you're interested in doing this. Steve

Air intake pipes now changed to black ducting between the turbo inlets & the air filters. Looks much better than the plastic hard pipes. Pictures to follow soon.

Mine's in the middle too. Could be the sender unit going a bit flakey. There's a resistance check you can do to check its not the sender. It should give a desistance of 2 to 3K ohms at 20 deg C and 0.15 to 0.3K ohms at normal running temp. I guess yours is reading 0.4 to 0.7K ohms at hot if its faulty.

Ian, you mean the friction side against the piston & the backplate against the disc??? Christ, that takes some kind of numpty LOL (but I did once wire up a fog light switch the wrong way and set fire to a car.... minor scortching only). BTW there are a cars about that can pop the pistons out if the pads wear down to metal.... Some designers are numptys too

Single piston calipers have a slider mechanism, but this is a twin piston and so doesn't need one as the two pistons counteract each other. It looks like the pads have worn down quite a lot, which has allowed the piston to rock slightly as it comes to the end of its travel (as there is not much piston left in the bore it will do this). The force of the braking effort on the pad has caused the piston to rock, digging the front of the pad into the disc more. Its mainly because the pads are worn so far down. new pads will fix this as the piston won't be able to rock in the bore. Cleaning all the crud off & exercising the piston in and out a couple of times (push it all the way in with the old pads on & then put the caliper back over the disc & press on the brake pedal... repeat a couple of times) will help. Not a major problem but it could be if the pads wear down so far that the piston falls out of its bore !!! Change the pads before they get this low.

Aaaargh...that makes me the Hoff then LOL Ta Mark... Sure you don't want to buy it????

Ok, if its gimmicks you want then its gimmicks you get... Free oil analysis kit worth £15 with every test drive Ideal for testing the engine condition of the Supe you finally decide on buying. Will show how the engine is wearing, intenal problems & even the quality of the air filter. What more could you ask for??? See this: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=69301 for more info.

Hold on, the VOSA site says cat D doesn't require a VIC check???

Blimey, that went quick..... And I was considering downgrading to an NA just to feed the habit (no nun jokes please). Col.... wanna buy mine????? I'll throw in the girlfriend for free No, hang on. That won't work cos then I'd be able to keep the Supe

Second house????? Get you lol Just sitting here twiddling my thumbs thinking of doing more mods to pass the time. Thinking of doing a silver & black dash.... Well, there is a little scratch on the rubber stuff

Resurection time: Finally had the speedo out and fixed the problem. A loose wire that was hanging loose due to a poor crimp terminal. Shocking quality work by the importer. The connector to the odometer had a 3.5mm female std spade connector pushed into a female bullet connector... and badly crimped wires too. Absolute pants!

More info: Boot rubber upgrade has been done so no more rattling/squeaking Wild speedo reading has been fixed, a loose wire due to poor quality crimp connectors. The problem is listed here http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=67439

Or a razor blade to part the two pieces.... should cut the paint nicely. Hold it in a pair of pliers.

Yeah.... Mine lol

Cheers Geordie Steve. Let me know a price. Lancs Steve

Used or abused, don't mind as long as it works and is the right money. Need to get up to BPU spec before selling, or have all parts available to the buyer.

I used to work on the engine calibration for diesel engines fitted with thesae VNT/VGT turbos at Ford. The control system is based on a closed loop boost demand. There is an open loop duty cycle dwemand based on fuelling quantity and rpm (with many various modification maps such as temperatures, ambient pressure etc) that is close-sh to the required boost. This s then modified by a closed loop PID control system that achieves the actual boost within milliseconds. Its fecking complicated, believe me!! But if you want a variable boost for different engine speeds & loads its the way to go. Otherwise just fit a boost capsule that opens the vanes up when the target boost is reached. This will mean that at idle the vanes are closed and the turbo(s) can actually produce boost!! The new Focus TDCI that the Mrs has bought has one of these. GT15 based I believe...... Hmmmm two fitted to a supe, with the boost capsule off the std turbos & the std boost control system fitted with an aftermarket controller????? I could have got my hands on some (lots i.e. 50) prototype Transit 135hp VNT turbos that would have mated up to a standard Garrett flange.... but I didn't know I was going to have a Supe then. Doh

Aaaargh!!! I've been looking for a good set of 18" wheels on the cheap for ages...... andc now the supe is up for sale here they are They look good though, what a bargain!

Last one lol

And again

Multiple posts.. sorry, don't know how it did it 4 times lol

Thanks for the comments people Oh... I forgot to say that there's a mini Maglite where the flare used to be, a 12v air compressor with the tools in the boot and a 2Kg AFF fire extinguisher attached to the back seat (as if there wasn't enough kit with it!!). Probably some more stuff I can't remember.........