Kranz

May have done, though anything is a possibiliy. Best way to take a sample if you're not changing the oil is to use a new medical syringe each time & new clean hose down the dipstick hole. Get syringes from the local chemists. If you are changing the oil, make sure its hot first then just hold the sample bottle under the oil flow out of the sump. Make sure its not the first oil or last oil to drain out though as these may be unrepresentative. About mid drain is best.

The thingy solders to the top of the BOV. You can see the bolt sticking out of it. Just used the blow torch and some solder. Wicked in nicely & was quite smooth after. After painting it almost looks original. If you wanted it to look more orginal then an allen screw that recesses right into the thingy would be best, like in this pic:

I was out in Sweden way up in the arctic circle doing cold climate testing on a prototype new F*rd. Myself & the other chap decided to take a break & found a particularly pleasant spot in the middle of a forest (as most of it is) with a great view over a frozen lake, approximately 30 miles from anywhere or anyone. Even though it was -40C and crisper than a frozen Toffee crisp dipped in liquid nitrogen we decided to take a short stroll down to the frozen lake a couple of minutes walk away. I got out, got something out of the boot & we started to walk to the lake. My mate says "have you locked the car??". I realise I haven't so I get the key out of my pocket & press the keyfob. It doesn't work, so I try again..... No luck. 'Strange' I think, so I go back to the car & use the key to lock it......... Its only then I see that the key is in the ignition & I'd used the hire car key (also a F*rd) to lock the doors (cos any F*rd key will lock any F*rd). At this point I realise we're bo*loxed. There's no mobile phone reception & although we're suited up like the Stay Puffed marshmallow man from Ghostbusters, we'll have no chance of surviving more than a couple of hours. Have you ever tried to dig in ground at -40C to try to find a rock??? So I drove back with the heating on full blast & a cold draught coming from the broken quarterlight. What an arse!

A friend's father was going home to Spain to visit the relatives. While there he decided to take the hire car & go to the safari park just down the road to where he used to live. It was all going well until in a chimp in the large animal enclsure took a fancy to his pipe that he was smoking with the window down. The cheeky chimp did a runner with the said pipe, pi**ing off my mate's dad. In anger he chased after the chimp in his car beeping the horn. Big mistake #1. Close by was an elephant with a new calf. This elephant took exception at the noisy car speeding towards them & it began to charge at the car. Mr Forteza, seeing the charging elephant, sh*ts himself & screams the spanish equivalent of "Holy sh*t" and bangs the car in reverse. The car shot backwards with the elephant close behind, until he reached the gate..... that only opens one way!! The now mightily pis*ed off elephant came right up to the car, eyed up Mr Forteza, raised its front leg & stamped on the bonnet, leaving an elephant sized foot print in the ront of the car. Having satisfied itself that it had got its revenge it buggered off. The park keepers had seen this all on CCTV and quickly came to my mustachioed friend's rescue & he was soon back at their office having a swift brandy or two to calm his nerves. When he'd finally calmed down enough he thanked the keepers for their assistance & set off for home. What a story to tell the relatives eh?? As he pulled out of the safari park there was a long line of queing traffic. Knowing the back roads like he did, this chap decides to take a short cut & heads off down one of the side roads at high speed. Unknown to him there had been a collision up ahead and one of the cars had failed to stop. The local Polizi (or whatever) see this mangled car speeding off from near the scene & give chase. Following a lengthy process of trying to explain the damage to the car & his route home the chap is breathylised..... and blows positive due to the brandys at the safari park. He spends the night in the cells & is released the next morning, having to return to Spain in a few weeks to face the court. He also has to pay a huge excess on the hire car & endure having the pi*s taken out of him for the rest of his life Sounds like you got off lightly Lust??

After I fitted my twin air intake system I found that my std BOV was 'leaking' almost all the time, and must have been doing it for ages without me noticing (as it was recirculating & silent). This must have been hurting part throttle performance as it was wasting boost nearly all the time except for near WOT. My solution was to make it adjustable, which was quite easy and only needed a drill, junior hacksaw, file and small blowtorch. Procedure is: 1) Remove BOV 2) about halfway round the top (narrowest) section of the BOV (yellow wiggly line in the 2nd photo) fasten a jubilee clamp and use this to carefully cut the top in half with the junior hacksaw. Marking a line across the cut line will be useful when it comes to realigning the top & bottom again. 3) take the top off & mark the centre of the top with a centre punch. Use a small round thing ( round piece of wood that fits inside the top) to place the top on so the surface of the top is resting on it.... so it doesn't cave in the top when you centre punch it!! 4) drill to 6mm in 2,4,5 then 6mm steps 5) take a trip to B&Q and buy a M6x20 bolt, a pack of M6 thingys that have a threaded inner portion & a flat base with spikes sticking up (used to hammer into wood to give a threaded insert) & a pack of large washers that just fit inside the top of the BOV with a 3mm hole. 6) stick the M6x20mm bolt in the drill and spin it round while filing the end 4mm or so down to 3mm diameter 7) take the M6 spiked threaded thingy & flatten the spikes down with a pair of pliers. 8) screw the 6mm bolt into the thingy so the 3mm end is sticking out of the flat end of the thingy 9) sand down the top of the BOV & the bottom of the flat end of the thingy 10) the thingy with the bolt in it can now be fitted to the top of the BOV where the 6mm hole was drilled 11) fit the washer over the 3mm end of the bolt & hammer the 3mm end so it squashes up & prevents the washer from coming off. Make sure the washer can move a little & turn though. 12) solder the thingy onto the top of the BOV 13) fit the spring back into the body of the BOV & place the top back on with its threaded adjuster adjusted all the way out 14) clamp the top onto the body using a G clamp from the top of the bolt to the base of the body 15) sand the paint off the area around the hacksaw line 16) block all ports and place the BOV body in water so the water comes up the side of the body to a height above the diaphragm. DO NOT GET WATER INTO THE DIAPHRAGM!! 17) carefully heat the BOV around the area of the split line & solder back together. Now you have a tuneable BOV. The more the bolt is screwed in the more spring pressure is excerted on the diaphragm, so the higher the vaccum required to make the valve open. From fully wound out (lowest spring pressure) to fully in (highest spring pressure) the difference is from it blowing all the time to it blowing only when the throttle is shut quickly. Great improvement!

Andrew, The oil seems to be holding up well. The zinc content is still very high. This is the additive to watch for depletion as this is the additive for high pressure anti-wear. The magnesium content is quite high, possibly as an anit-foam additive. Visually it is 9/10 for condition, doesn't mean much... just how dirty it looks! Viscosity at 40 is up a little over the spec of 57, but that just shows its ageing a little. Onto tghe wear metals..... these are very similar to my Sup with the oil that was in it when I bought it..... don't know the brand. The silicon level is a little high, as mine is. Its not a crap air filter as the silicon/ aluminium ratio is not correct. It may be that silicon sealer was used in the engine and is still releasing its silicon content into the oil. Boron at 76 is not a wear metal, but probably an additive. No worries about this unless it increases and your coolant level drops!! Copper at 4 tin at Iron at 8 is excellent, these angines hardly wear the bores and this shows it. As a comparison, a F**d would be showing in the 30 to 50 range!! Now onto Moly. This MAY be the rings wearing, but there would be an iron content much higher as the Moly in the rings is way harder than iron. So we'll discount this for the moment. As you say there may have been a small amount of Moly disulphide grease used on the oil filter gasket at the last oil change, but it may also have been the mechanic adding an oil additive to the new oil??? Looking at my readings when I changed the oil after I bought the car mine was 45 ppm after 2400 miles on the mystery oil. This dropped to 9 ppm on the next sample at 3400 miles on Penzoil semi synth. I'd suggest it is something perculiar to that oil & your Amsoil (although I haven't seen this with the 10W/40 I used to use in the old Jaguar). Best way to find out is to: 1) Phone the mechanic & check he hasn't used moly grease or oil additive 2) Get a virgin sample of your oil done straight out of the container. This is very useful as it shows what the oil is when new & is required if any valid comparisons are to be made about how the oil/engine is wearing. Cheers Steve

So you'll be looking to buy M3 3L ST ??

Thorin, my std BOV was leaking at almost all low boost conditions.. for no reason. I think the spring had gone weak. It was really annoying as I couldn't cruise at 60 - 70 without it blowing all the time. When I had it set up to recirculate I couldn't hear it, but when I fitted the twin filters (and twin intake pipes) I left it hanging... boy was it blowing! I made mine adjustable to tune it so it only blows off when I want it to. Try disconnecting the BOV outlet (and capping the hose to the intake). You'll soon hear it blowing. Takes 5 mins.

Its out. Butterfly retaining screws had to be drilled out Seems they're made of a cross between alloy & philidelphia. There's no way of unscrewing them. Left the shaft & the bottom of the screws in (as they wouldn't come out) and superglued over them just incase they decide to try & work loose.

Section 136 Mental health act anyone???

I was thinking of taking the butterfly out but leaving the shaft in, so it can turn the shaft & think its doing something.... and all the sensor readings will be right. It just won't do anything to reduce power.

Yeah, apparently it was too high, they weren't supplied any boots & had to buy their own, and the snow got in the SA80's and made them jam up

Make Someone Happy with a Muff. Men Can't Help Acting On Muff. Melts In Your Muff, Not In Your Hand. Fill It To The Rim With Muff. Bread Wi' Muff Taken Out. PMSL I've got to stop. Somebody help

The Non-Sticky Sticky Cock. And This Is The Age Of The Cock. Even worse.... Cleans Right Round The Cock. Bizzarre I'm stopping there

Know a girl who got slapped around by her BF quite regularly. She snapped and stuck an 8" kitchen knife in his leg. He hasn't touched her since

Ah, probably the starter then. had this once on the V8 Westy when the exhaust heat got to it and caused the solenoid to jam up (grease inside turned solid). Try smacking it with a soft faced hammer while someone attempts to crank it first time (when the problem occurs) and holds the key at the crank position. If it turns over when you smack it, then its the solenoid jamming.

Yeah, interesting..... Could tune the power reduction to the level that you like. May give it a try if I can find a spare butterfly to 'experiment' with. Anyone got one they could pass on for the good of the group?

Pics, pics, pics.... with your GF & a loaf of Hovis???

Is it close to MOT time???? If not just make it up & take it for an MOT anyway after you've finished playing I had to do the work, honest love. You know I'd rather spend time with you......... Edit: MOT's are always best due in the summer cos its pi*s poor having to work on the car out in the snow & rain. Sounds like an even better excuse!

Watch out.... they turn into little heartbreakers like this

Martin, if I could afford RLTC I'd have it. I'm thinking about making the stock TC more bareable. Doesn't the gear change retard help keep the changes smooth? Anyway, Toyo R1's are top of the shopping list once I've saved up my paper round money

Been looking into the TRAC system as I don't like it. Its too much cutting the fuelling for the time it does & ends up getting dangerous. BUT, I want some form of traction control when its wet as the crappy Nankang tyres (yeah, I know... soon to be replaced) are a bit lively. Can I just take the butterfly out of the TRAC throttle so the rear brakes operate and the ignition retards, but there's still some control of the power????

Charcoal cannister takes the pressure from the fuel tank as it warms up & releases it to the atmosphere without all the nasty petrol vapour coming out. Best to keep it, as I don't know what will happen if you take it all out. Could end up with a pressurised tank or fuel flowing out of the pipes??? Is the pressure tank you mean the turbo actuator presure tank?? If so & you're going sequential big TT you'll need it. If you're going true twin (both on line together) no need for it.

Could be the battery. When you switch the ignition on there's a fairly high current draw as everything powers up. After a few seconds this drops as things are now up and running. If the battery is knackered it may be too much to do all this & crank at the same time, but if you leave it to recover after the initial current draw it may be ok to pull up the starter solenoid. Try it with a jump start from a spare battery or a jump start pack?

I've been sneezing like a bas**rd today too. Couldn't work out why. Must have been the pollen. The original Piriton (that make you really sleepy) are the best AFAIK.