Kranz

If it blows now you know you have a problem! Just wondering if your aftermarket ECU needs more current?? I doubt it, but its strange there was a 20A in there. Things starting to die does sound like the battery. Give it a full charge overnight and see what it does. You may have a large current drain with the NOs wiring shorting out??? Is that disconnected now??

If you have been giving it some serious leptons in high ambient temps then the engine may be close to boiling. Stopping straight after full throttle driving may cause localised boiling to occur in the cylinder head. This may lead to gasket weakening & it is probably preferable to leave the engine idling until some of the heat is taken out of the head area. The only reason I can think of using a turbo timer on an NA.

Prevention is better than a cure..... Don't go out in the rain! Seriously tho, sealing it can't be that difficult. A bit of black silicone sealant and a spare hour should have it sorted.

Had to pick the sprog up from school. Set off an hour early just to take in some country lanes with the baby in the pasenger seat. Cracking day for it.

I think Ian's suggesting you look at the fault codes

Is that ATF in a fish bowl or a vase in the first pic?? I guess they used ATF as the V160 was difficult to get/ they didn't know/couldn't be bothered to find it?

Just my kind of word

Camshaft & crankshaft sensors spring to mind. If the ECU can't determine where each piston is it won't know when to squirt the fuel in. As a default it stops the engine from running. Have you checked for fault codes??

At least he's on the train now. I wonder how many hores that will take??

Two stock filters in parallel. Should allow the fuel to flow sufficiently with -6 lines?

Ian, I've tried pulling the AM2 fuse and the instrument panel still lights up, which goes against what Jo saw. I thought the Ign fuse was powered through the AM2 fuse? And if the dash is not lighting up & its not the instrument panel fuse then??? I think there is a little more to this than one fuse. We'll have to see what Jo comes up with. Edited as I can't spell for tofee

Its difficult to tell what it can be without the car. You'll need to check out all the fuses in the kick panel & the engine bay... after disconnecting the NOs connector as this may be shorting to ground continuously in posn 2??? PM me when you get home & we'll sort it out.

Err, it didn't have the desired effect. My instruments light up in position 2 with all of those fuses removed. Will take another look in the wiring diagrams. Edit: Even with the 50A Main fuse removed everything on the dash lights up in posn 2. Do all your lights go out in posn 2??

I'll go and pull mine and see what happens

This suggests that the power feed to the accessory terminal is ok, but the ignition power feed is gone. They are 2 seperate feeds once past the AM2 (main ignition feed fuse). Good news is it should be just a single fuse. Looks like the EFI1 fuse in relay block 2.... I hope!

There's a 30A fuse from the battery feeding the ignition switch. Its labelled AM2 and should be in the fuse box behind the battery. This goes to 'Relay block 2' on the 'left side of engine compartment'. In this block is the EFI1 and EFI2 fuses. I'd put my money on these two, although they are both 30A also. Check all fuses in this block as there may be something not obvious controlled by one of the accessory fuses that could knock out the ignition, especially with an aftermarket ECU. Also check your ECU for additional protection fuses etc. Good luck!

Jo. Is it ok if you turn the key to position 1 (accessories) but everything dies if you turn it to position 2 (Ignition on)?? If it is I'd think it is something to do with a fuse protecting the ignition circuit prior to the ignition relay. The NOs switch probably pulled too much current when connected & blew a small protection fuse.

My budgie used to spill his seed on the ground

If running a power curve during an acceleration there will be an increased inertia caused by bigger wheels/tyres, however the torque output will be the same as long as the total gearing remains the same. The only difference is that the increased inertia will make the acceleration slower. This is a good thing as it is closer to steady state running (i.e. running at a set speed & load). Taking steady state points (i.e. 1000 rpm, 1500 rpm) and logging the data then moving on to the next speed on the power curve, the bigger wheels/tyres will make no difference. Its the same as having a heavy car Vs a light car. The power output is the same, its just the acceleration thats affected. If the total gearing changes because of the change in wheel/tyre size then torque at the wheels will change. Power will remain the same though as power is based on torque and rpm. Bigger wheels = less torque but more rpm which cancel each other out when looking at power. If you want more torque at the wheels go for smaller diameter wheels & tyres.

From what I can see through this mess everyone involved has rallied round for a common cause... Dude's current predicament. Its great to see this club pull together and help out a member in need. Yes, there has been a bit of a fcuk up... but with Dude out of the loop and his ability to communicate with the rest of the people on here reduced to a phone call once in a while its not all going to go smoothly. Everyone needs to step back & see the big picture. So many people were willing to put their time & money into helping out a fellow club member. CJ took the lead and got us all on board. Martin put up the facility to carry this out & make a club meet out of it (with free BBQ!), loads of members were prepared to help out with the dismantling and nobody acted selfishly. Finally Terry put up the cash for Dude & is helping arrange the sale of the car/parts to maximise on the return. In the end it may not have been exactly what Dude was looking for, but all involved have to be applauded for their commitment & dedication to the cause. Well done all. I for one am glad to be a member of this club.

Get a GF thats much younger. Works miracles

Shame I can't make it. Sorry guys, would have loved to support the 'Leave Dude's car in Kent' BBQ. And my home town is the other end of the road, could have brought the parents along Maybe there'll be something left for the weekend after??

Or run two in parallel??

Mine is Supe specific. See this thread: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=70665 Steve

Yep, thats the only way to do it properly. I used to use the AVL blowby meter and take readings at idle & peak torque. Blowby itself was through 2 glassfibre circular filters (emissions papers for diesel emissions tests particulate measurement) that were in a holder in line with the blowby system. There were switched with pneaumatics so the blowby gasses at peak torque were going through them for 1 minute. Then they were dried in a humidity controlled room and weighed to a high resolution to get the oil carryover in kg/hr. Pretty complicated.