Kranz

Or every 5 Years... Which ever is the sooner.

Its been covered before. A search will find all the threads. To cut a long story short its the alarm/central locking receiver (IIRC). The coax cable goes half way up the A pillar. p.s. MK47... are you buying the Denso plugs in the group buy??? Need a cheque ASAP

Some say yes... some say no as they have passed without as it was classed as a car not requiring a cat! Try it at your MOT station, and if it fails then it will need a cat!! Safer option is to fit one (or both) before the MOT.

Sliding callipers nearly always stick as they get old. Take the two big sliding pins out, cleam them up (if they're really crappy stick them in a drill and clean them with 800 wet & dry in oil). Grease them with silicone grease & stick back in. Jobs a good'un.... Unless its the piston thats siezed?? If its the piston take the calliper off, take the pads out & gently wind it back in with a G clamp & something like an old pad over the piston. Have someone prss the brake pedal while you stick something in the way of it so it doesn't pop out (the pads & disc are good!)... then do it all again until it feels free. A good work out will do it the world of good.

At least its (mostly) sorted now. Have fun at the show!

I don't think there will be any that aren't being used. You can use household fuse wire if you *MUST*. 50A is 50A. It shuldn't matter as a temporary measure. You can get a card of various fuse wire from any electrical shop. Just pop the clear plastic top off with a screwdriver & solder a new piece of fuse wire between the two thicker wires. Wonder why it blew??? At least this way you will have a plentiful supply of fuses (fuse wire!).

Trace its wiring back to where ever it goes to the main +ive supply (probably the fuse box behind the battery) and unplug it at the nearest convenient location. There may be an in line fuse you can pull. If this is the cause of the problems it *MAY* be pulling enough current from wherever it is teed into to drop the voltage enough to stop the systems powering up. Most control systems won't work at around 9V. Now you have a new battery stick it on charge (they only come part charged) and check that all fuses and relays are pushed firmly in. Check the wiring to the AEM. It may have an in line fuse that needs checking. Connect up the battery & check the voltage with a good voltmeter (the good one will show around 13.5 to 14V when the battery is on charge... test them both & make sure they are set to DC!!). Steve

Well I'm going to run two in parallel as I have a box of 20 to use up

I normally knock it into N when coming to a stop. No problem. It doesn't do any harm as long as the engine is running & the oil pump in the gearbox is circulating oil around it.

Just fit another Walbro 342 in parallel with the one you have. No problem with fuelling then up to 1000 rwhp?? Much cheaper than trying to get a Toyota pump, and will flow much more.

Just about up...... Don't want to be though!! The Sorento is quite a nice car for a Korean make (I used to work for Daewoo ). I think they are taking a lot of their styling ideas from Mercedes, and probably using Merc engines under licence too. I know Ssangyong were. Anyway, to get back on topic. I was thinking about this last night (yeah, sad I know). The problem occurred when you plugged the switch connector for the N20 in and it sparked. After that things started to go dead. There's no fuses blown but something is making the battery go dead (unless its the battery itself?). I'm thinking that the N20 solenoid may be on, which draws ? amps... maybe 10A? This, if its being energised permenantly, will flatten the battery nicely and, depending where it is connected to, may cause sufficient voltage drop across the feed wire from the fuse box to stop certian critical systems from powering up?? Just a guess. Steve

I thought 'Life is the name of the game' - Bruce Forsyth's Generation Game. Showing my age now. Off to bed with a warm coco & slippers.

At least they can test it for you!! And replace it if its knackered.

Don't know what immobiliser you have but mine is ok from taking battery out for hours. But if you've only got a couple of volts the imobiliser will have shut down anyway! The 6V at the fuses sounds not at all good. Big voltage drop somewhere there.... probably the source of your problems. I'm guessing this because from 9v at the battery to 6v at the fuse through a relatively big (guage) wire means there must be a high current draw to drop 3v across that wire. But its not enough to blow the fuses, so less than 30A. There's a current drain somewhere... its just finding it! Something is permenantly powered up. If the battery recovers its charge overnight while being charged disconnected and shows 12V+ in the morning, this will prove the theory... mostly!

Is it connected to the car while on charge or are the pos & neg leads from the car disconnected. Just thinking you may have a huge short somewhere that is draining the battery down big time? And if the sorento was connected with jump leads & didn't start it up then something is wrong... I haven't seen this with just a battery, and one bought in March too?? Try charging the battery overnight with it off the car, then check the voltage. Then fit it & try the ignition.

Send his Mrs an anonymous text saying he is having an affair at the office. That's one that will just run & run.

What's wrong with sliding down a fireman's greasy pole????

My bro has just moved back to Thornbury. He may pop round with his canadian Mrs..... Just don't get him talking about accountancy, unless you need an accountant??

There is a rather large pink following here, but more Brighton way. :d

If I do I'll end up buying your car u don't want to sell... Just wanted to make sure you hadn't run out of beer!!!

Probably a typo... He meant the padlock, its an S&M bar isn't it??

I don't drink This is the best I feel all day... every day Wayne, do you want me to pop round with more beerz??? I think I'm just down the road. :d

Is that a calcium battery??? Guaranteed for 3 years?? Sounds like you've been there before Ian!

Below 10v everything will shut down & go to sleep..... which is what I recommend until tomorrow when a new battery can be installed for approx £40 :d If you want to try you should still be able to jump start the Supe of the Sorento, just to confirm it all works nicely before getting the new battery. This is because it will see 13.5V from the Sorento with it connected by jump leads & engine running. Once the Supe is started its alternator will put out 13.5V & plenty of current to keep it running. Only problem is it won't start again without a jump start until the new battery is fitted.

This is bizarre. Guess you'll have to check for 12v with the ignition on at the Ign fuse (kick panel), the AM2 fuse & the EFI1 & 2 fuses (fuse box behind battery). This should give a better indication of where the problem lies. If you have jump leads then try connecting the Sorento to the Sup. Should rule out the battery being a problem if it still does this.