Kranz

I'm sure I've seen some air lift kits on the market that fit inbetween the springs and can lift the car a couple of inches... enough to get up and down your drive. That way you can have your cake & eat it...

The compressor housing is aluminium alloy. The turbine housing is cast iron. You can polish them both, but the turbine will turn blue/black straight away with the heat and will take a LONG time to get smooth.... would look better than the cast finish though!

A cylinder bore kit would be better than a stroker kit as it would not lower the safe operating speed of the engine, which would be needed if increasing the stroke length. Increasing the stroke increases the forces on the crank pin, rods & pistons, but reduces the friction. Increasing the bore diameter keeps the forces on the pistons & rods about the same, but increases the friction due to more piston ring circumference against the bore wall. But if you go for a fully counterbalanced billet steel crank, H beam rods & lightweight forged pistons and this lower RPM limit can be forgotten. To get the most from an NA you need to make the air inlet & exhaust as unrestrictive as possible, and squeeze the heck out of the contents of the combustion chamber with the most advanced ignition timing possible. This would be helped by running on the highest octane fuel available and using an aggressive knock control system that keeps the advance right on the det limit (DBL-1). Things like dry sumping and engine blueprinting make quite a difference but then you're into ££££ territory. Why not just get a TT??

1) Undo the bolts 2) Take it off Simple! Doesn't matter which direction its pointing when you put it back on as you'll probably have to realign it anyway to point where you want it to go. Don't forget a bit of locktite on the bolts whan you put it back.

A leaking BOV that is still set up to recirculate is actually very quiet. I didn't notice mine until I fitted the twin filter setup and it was venting to atmosphere... continuously!

Wanted for an experiment into fitting quick change decat pipes to the original cat pipes using straight through sections of pipe where the cats are located. Both 1st & 2nd cats needed.

I have a metre spare. Let me know the length you want and I'll post it to you Free. Its 3" internal diameter. Oh, and use two jubilee clamps on each side then it won't slip off. Dont forget to measure for extra length of hose for this

Now with a Blitz Dual SBC type S boost controller.

I thought they did look like UK calipers. Anyone got a caliper to compare the pic above against???

Remaunfactured are used parts that are stripped, cleaned, inspected, machined, rebuilt & painted or laquered. Look like new, work like new, cost half the price.

No Col, its a one off purchase hence the bit extra included for the surcharge. If you do have some to exchange imho it would cost more than its worth to send them back.

Demon Tweeks. The one sold by Halfrauds is just a cosmetic thingy for chav wagons isn't it??? One pull on it & it'll come off in your hand.

Will do DB.... Thanks.

Mr B, they're reman Toyota parts

Doug... If there's enough interest I'll ask Lee if I can run it as a group buy. If not it won't be! Just guaging interest at the mo.

Who's interested in a group buy for remanufactured UK spec brake calipers??? Prices will be : Fronts - £202.50 pair Rears - £157.10 pair all including import duty but plus Uk shipping. Need minimum 7 pairs for this price. Price may go up soon as they have changed their core deposit price (how much they change on top of the part if you don't exchange the old ones). Steve EDIT: My goof, the first price for fronts was for 2 pot calipers!! The rears come powder coated in black. For the fronts to be powder coated black add £52.00 The web site is here if you want a look.. Cardone parts W/O pads http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1278604,parttype,1704,partGroup,14

I'll take the boost controller

Car has now got a Cusco brake cylinder stopper... that stops the master cylinder moving when braking hard.

I didn't have to move anything when I fitted my FMIC... Lucky???

Dunno, seemed like a good idea! No nuts, bolts or gaskets & can use the original pipework..... I'll re-invent the wheel next week

Bob, you could use the original cat & pipework. Cost would be: 6 Flanges at £15 each approx 2 clamps at £20 each approx Piece of stainless pipe same length as cat £10 approx Fabrication £60 approx Say £200 max. Probably could get it done for less, but that's a maximum estimate.

It would be a sad day when I put £10 of petrol in the Supe... it'd mean I was close to bankrupt!! New tank of Shell V Power tonight... I'll see how it goes but I get around 18 - 20 mpg on my usual journey, so that's about 45 miles on a tenner of Super UL.

Chris, as I write this my GSD puppy of 4 months is affectionatley chewing my foot... without shoes on I hope I can trust him for the rest of his life, but sometimes we forget that they are not human but animals that react on instinct, not a deCisioN Making proz\ESS (sorry, he's having a go at typing now ) I work with 'working' GSD's all the time, and its a stark reminder what they do for a living and what they're capable of when they bite right through a handler's arm guards and protection seriously injuring the handler! Hope it all heals well and you're back to beer drinking soon!! Oh, and work of course LOL

What do people think about a replaceable cat/decat, held on by clamps at each side so that you have a decat pipe most of the time, but come MOT time you take out the straight through pipe section by undoing the two V-band clamps and slot the cat in, then snap the clamps shut to hold it in place???? Would take about 5 mins and not need any tools, gaskets or exhaust paste. Clamp is like this:

Just done a quick calculation. A 15 degree rise at the air filter gives a 4 degree rise at the manifold with an intercooler at 70% efficiency. I expect a large FMIC will perform better than this.