Kranz

Yeah, the std one!! Thats as long as it works. Most give up & leak all the time, but because its recirculating you can't hear it. Made mine adjustable to stop it leaking & change the point when it operates. Also have it going to atmsophere not recirculating. It now makes the "pidgeon" noise whan coming off the loud pedal.... probably knackering it but what the heck

Why not just skip the squaddie bit & join the Police now?? The job may not exist when you get out of the forces That means you can stay at home & play with your Supe all the time

John.... just use an APU (Auxiliary Power Unit) gas turbine from a 747 (the one that sits in the tail running while you get on board) or such like to power your electric motor. Would sound great too

I was going to flush out the old Toyota fluid & replace with fuly synthetic Amsoil ATF (which t states is compatible with Totota Type IV). I used to use it in my Jag XJ6 and it was sweet... made the shifts smoother & lasted longer (the previous owner had towed a huge caravan and allowed the ATF to go all brown & burnt). http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/atf.aspx What do you reckon??

I have a Janspeed rover V8 twin turbo kit if you're interested???

Got one for sale... for £7495 comes with the car free

I thought there were some on Fleabay???

Bit pricey for me..... budget of £50 plus bus fare home Seriously tho, if you don't get a buyer let me know your best price?

Bumpatty bump bump..., anyone??

Ahem,..... No comment... Did have my doubts tho

I am doing a black & silver dash so the silver knobs will go nicely with what I have planned. Black knobs are ok... just a bit... Ummm boring

Just been painting the dash... got noting better to do than hang a mirror on the wall for the Mrs. She'll have to wait LOL Pulled me knobs off the heater & fan controls & sprayed them silver. Total cost £0.20 approx. Looks cool too. Anyone want theirs in a good aluminium paint finish? Will do them a batch of 10 at a time (5 cars) for free. Photos to follow when the Mrs brings the camera home from work

Owen, This doesn't sound too good. If one brake is locking up and the rest aren't then the one locking up must be doing the majority of the braking. If its doing the majority of the braking it must be getting the majority of the brake pressure. 1) Did all the brakes bleed ok? 2) Did you "exercise" the calipers on each corner to check that they are free? You say that bleeding & fitting the aeroquip hoses made it worse.... That would suggest air in the system that is preventing all the brakes operating. I'm guessing that the supe is a split front/rear twin line braking system that has a pressure regulator for the rear? If one rear caliper (the one not locking up) is siezed or has air in the system and the rear pressure regulator is faulty then this may lock up the one rear wheel. Try un-siezing the calipers if you have't already done so. Failing that Toyota can do a pressure check front to rear for you to determine if you're getting too much pressure to the rear.

Imi, As oil heats up it grows in volume.. that's what the viscosity improvers do, try to make it thicker as it thins out. If you have a car that at maximum on the dipstick is 7 litres, and have 6 litres of oil in the sump when its cold & has been sat all night.... then heat it up to normal operating temp and it becomes 7 with the engine off, you have the correct level when its hot (because engines run with hot oil). If you have 7 litres when its cold (i.e. set it to maximum when cold), then heat it up & it becomes 8+ litres this will obviously be too much & may cause leaks, power loss etc If you have 7 litres cold just after running the engine for a few seconds; with the large amount of oil hang up in the upper parts of the engine caused by the slow return of oil to the sump as it is very thick, you may end up with 9 litres when checked properly. This is 2 litres over spec & is likely to blow a seal (especially in turbo engines where crank case pressures are higher then NA). If it is set to Max level hot after 5 mins, you'll find that when stone cold it will be about 5mm lower on the dipstick. This is the room for expansion! So when doing an oil change, fill it up with the new oil to about 5mm below max after running for a few seconds to check for leaks.

5 Minutes when cold isn't enough time to check the oil level after running. There will be loads of oil hanging up in the head etc hat will take ages to drain down. Its supposed to be 5 minutes after shut down at normal operating temperature. Oil level should be at max mark on the dipstick in this condition. Checking when cold & filling to the max mark after being stationary all night is a sure fire way to overfill it. Take it for a good warmup & check on the level 5 mins after shut down.

Mark, I'd love to but its going on the car to bring it up to BPU+ spec for the new owner. Once its at BPU+ i'll get it on a rolling road to check power output... guessing it'll be somewhere around 320 to 340 BHP at the wheels, which would correlate to 385 to 410 BHP at the flywheel?

Front & rear brake pads will now be replaced for new owner as part of pre-delivery full service.

Hope you didn't touch it... or you'll be in the frame for theft UMV

How do you flush the system completely???

As above. Don't mind size (2.5" or 3"), single pipe or two, or condition as long as it fits.

I have 3" if that's any use???

Must be this one.... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320015751105&sspagename=ADME%3AL%3ARTQ%3AUK%3A1&rd=1 Like it. Thought it was going to go for a song. I wonder if the auto to 5 speed conversion is easier than the auto to 6 speed???

Erm... is it 6 or 7 now??? I've lost track

Thor FCD now included in sale.

New fuel filter & large Toyota oil filter purchased & to be fitted in pre-delivery service. SERVICE - An OIL & FILTER CHANGE WITH FULLY SYNTHETIC TOTAL Q9000 OIL, fuel filter and spark plugs (Denso IK24's) replaced, coolant flush & refill with 5 year antifreeze, other fluids checked & topped up as necessary before delivery to new owner