Krister

Bump. Still looking!

Looking for an UK/Euro rear bumper without the JDM license plate hole in it. PM what you have

Bump still looking

Wanted a set of UK 2 pot rear brakes. Just calipers or with discs also.

DEI type turbo blanket.

On pre-facelift headlights this isnt necessary as the beam pattern is DOT type, so it is level. Facelift lights have the ECE-pattern which needs modifying like this. I have sanded the dot pattern flat a couple of times but in Finland it isnt even needed any more, but depends on the country of course.. https://www.retrofitlab.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/dot-ece-cutoff.jpg

So if I'd just like to put in 1000GBP to wait in if some coin will skyrocket like Bitcoin, what coins might be the next big thing if I would buy 250GBP each four and just forget about them for say 6 months. I dont have time to buy and sell daily or even weekly nor the interest. Managed to register on Binance, so I'm good to go.

Are you sure they are polished? I think they are anodized. Keep off rough cleaning agents otherwise you will ruin the anodizing and it cannot be polished back. Just use some high quality wax on them.

I have a PI3800 rpm stall on my Aristo and it locks up fine during highway use. I think lockup is mainly controlled by the speed and not rpm so lockup works almost like stock on light cruising and motorway use.

Double post

The solenoids are rewired and the Arduino has a relay card. I'll PM you.

I domt believe that as then the same issue would be in most sport cars, like Supras for instance.

I have a mate that has the DCT on an E30 BMW and he has an Arduinio controlling it. So this could be also done without the Syvecs if you are DIY guy.

Sorry to bump an old thread, but can anyone confirm the thread is M16x1.5? SimonB wrote above "looks like" and that makes me feel that's he wasn't 100% sure about it

Then you dont have enough power with the 6870 Seriously, boost by gear is great.

Why would that be if you for instance have it tuned by boost by gear. I'm sure 6870 smokes the tires on 3rd as well if let to do it.

I didnt quite understand, are you upgrading to the 7275 or not or just debating if to do it? I think the upgrade will be more then 100bhp and better top end to suite mile and half mile racing. Should be great with the VVTi. I'm sure you've seen this comparison?

Doing the work yourself and using some 2nd hand parts makes it automatically not reliable and isnt the correct way to do it? Of course it depends of the skill level of the person making the build, but if you dont start from some where, you arent going to learn anything. Also it might cost you more in the long way when having to pay for someone else to do it all the time. I also enjoy working on my own car and learning something every time, and I can say that I built it my self. I always encourage people to do their own work on the car as it's part of the fun.

I would beg to disagree if the work is done by yourself and shopping wisely (some 2nd hand parts). I'd say a 600bhp single Supra is as reliable as a BPU one and doesnt require a built engine. Only the sky is the limit though and 15k can be spent easily if shooting over 800bhp.

Lol my thoughts exactly. Same goes to Volvos "Polestar"

I'm pretty sure you cant legally register a single turbo in Sweden very easily. Even Armin put stock twins in his car for MOT/registration time. I'd make sure on Swedish Supraforum It was the same in Finland before, not possible without an expensive (1500€) rolling road emission test and no warranty to pass it, and it was 1500€ per try. Gladly the law just changed a year ago and we now can legally single turbo a Supra with a simple emission test done at the MOT station and dyno the car with less than 20% raised power from stock. Cars to be able to do this needs to be Euro1 emission grade, so usually under year 2000. So before we just put the stock twins and IC back or find a friendly MOT guy and pay him a little extra to pass the test Even if you would get an emission proof from Toyota or Tüv/Dekra, its for a stock car and not a single turbo modified one. So it will not help you anything. Only way is to get your own car tested and it will be expensive.

Rotate the vvti cam gear full clockwise so there is no free play. Same direction the cam belt would pull the cam gear to. You are correct the, oil pressure just advances the cam. So the when there is no oil pressure or signal to the vvti solenoid the timing belt pulls the free play to the other side where it needs to be when you set the timing when the crank is btdc IIRC put the cam gear marks at the lines (dashes?) when having the crank at BTDC, just like with a regular non-VVTi 2JZ, not on the dot.

Epic builds

If you have parts that need rust removed that are taken off the car, go and buy some citric acid from a pharmacy and mix it with water and leave them to soak in it for 1-2 days. Works like a charm. http://www.instructables.com/id/Removing-Rust-with-Citric-Acid/ In a warm solution it works faster, but I've always used it in room temperature

I wouldnt use a wirebrush as it also removes the metal from the panels. I would use these types of brushes, it removes paint and rust but is gentle to the metal on the body. If you have lots of rust, I wouldnt bother with that either, only way to remove it effectively is with water-sand blasting