Krister

My friend is searching for a race logic traction control. Preferably the digital one, but the older one might also do. PM me what you have to offer.

I'm looking for an LHD (Left hand drive) MKIV Supra center dash panel, where the radio hole and AC panels are.

I had the same issue, looks like we both had the AEM V2. I think it's an injector spray time issue along with the fact that all aftermarket valves are stainless and stock valves are martensitic alloy and can be hardened harder. An engine bulder / tuner herer had this same issue on two different car, but he changed the spray time so that there is more cooling to the valves and he didnt have an issue since.

What issue did you have? What setup, ecu etc..?

BUMP, still looking

Hi, I have the following 2JZ items for sale: Brand new Supertech SPRK-TS1015 dual valve spring kit Box has been opened but everything is unused. http://realstreetperformance.com/Shop-by-Engine/Valvesprings-Retainers_30/Supertech-Supra-2JZGTE-91lb-Dual-Valvesprings-Retainers-Kit.html Includes Ti retainers etc. Whifbitz price: £580. I'd like to get £430 for these. Supertech +1mm valves Intake valves are used Exhaust valves are brand new. I had an issue because of most likely bad injector timing and I lost intake valve clearance on the intake side and had slight damaged the intake valves valve seat contact surface. The intake valves have been ground and re manufactured and my head builder said it's perfectly fine to use them, but I had already bought a new set and put that in my head instead. Intake valves have around 2000 miles on them. http://www.garagewhifbitz.co.uk/toyota/supra/engine-components/cylinder-head-components/supertech-3423.html Whifbitz price: £408 I'd like to get £250 for these £650 for both items above or give me an offer.

My friend had his 6262 break because of air filter damage. It took 2 months for him to get the turbo back from Precision. Ruined his whole summer basically.

So 258kW at the wheels? It's 350whp. How are you going to map it? Stock ECU isnt mappable wihtout piggyback systems. Only way is a standalone.

Love white Supras Just a note about the wheels, they are most likely 5x112 bolt pattern, so make sure you use the correct nuts on them, I think they are called wobble nuts.

Have done some drag racing, but I hurt the synchros with a bad clutch which didnt disengage fully. Not sure why the gear fork broke, wasnt pushing the transmission at that time very hard.

I have had a couple rebuilt here in Finland. There's nothing special about it. The pullers might need to be modified if thy arent made for a Getrag. The gears are really tight, so you need quality pullers. Mine had synchros changed and one had the gear selector fork break.

Sound like a good plan. You will love the VVTi, makes the engine feel like it has 1 litre more displacement

How do you know? Did you try a set or did you try out the template?

Mine are 6 pot ST60. Didnt you order a custom setup for BBK or are they the regular Supra specific set?

I'm looking for a set of quality wheels. 19" or 18" wheels . Width preferably 9" or wider in the front and 10.5-11" in the rear. Mainly searching for SSR, Volk, Work, CCW, HRE or similar quality wheels.

An aftermarket intake manifold isnt usually needed unless you are running close to 1000hp and most come with a throttle body which is huge, and that makes daily driving harder. They look nice though. I'm running a Titan Motorsports modified stock intake manifold which has had the plenum changed like mwilkinson suggested above. I'm running the stock 65mm throttle body and almost 1300hp, so the stock TB isnt much of a restriction even at those power levels. Would be fun to test a 75mm to see if there's a gain, but most likely not very big.

You need to change the oil pan from your current NA engine, Aristo is a front sump, Supra is rear sump.

Which oil galleries? I have a non VVTi block with my VVTi head and so do lots of the americans as well.. The oil going to the VVTi solenoid is not that big.. I dont see a problem running one even if there is some difference in the blocks. I'd like to see pictures of these said differences..

Yeah, it's ported, +1mm oversize valves, cnc ported combustion chambers, ferrea guides, shimless buckets, Titan 272 cams, Supertech dual valve springs.

Yeah, I got 500rpm better spool with the VVTi. Torque is also increased before that.

My friend used the kit on a 2JZ swap. Good kit, but he had trouble with the flywheel bolts backing out, so make sure you put red loctite on them.

You sure that's the way to go? I would google it a little, I read on SF that someone wasnt very happy with the Stage 3 build. I personally think it would be more cost efficient and easier to sell your current box and get a low mileage used box. Also a transmission shop can change the synchros in a Getrag, I've had it done a couple of times here locally. You just need to have pullers made for the Getrags.

Well if you want more power, going bigger on turbo will help of course. But you will be shifting the power band to the right and make boost on 2nd gear even higher than now. You can hit the nitrous at 3000rpm, so it would help you a lot. I just upgraded to a VVTI head during the winter and it made a dramatic change to the low end and spooling of the turbo. It's rather a big job to change it now, but if you ever change your setup, I highly recommend it. I also did a stroker crank, but I feel the VVTi helped more. So weighing the options you have, I would go the nitrous route and possibly upgrade the turbo if you want more power or just spray the whole mile or just the higher gears.

What could happen? Worst thing is it will crack more, start to leak to the out side and you will need to replace it.

Going with a bigger wont solver your problem, it will make it worse. If you are shooting for this event, I'd keep the current turbo and try if the rolling antilag will help you. Did you try brake boosting? It's usually used a lot with roll racing to get the boost up before the race begins, could have helped you. But 3300rpm sounds a little low rpm to get it going even with brake boosting in a 67mm. To get more torque, you need to up the boost as more boost creates more torque. Torques is nice to a point, but it's actually the power that makes the car accelerate faster, not torque. That's why you have gears in your car. But to get more torque down low that you are ultimately asking for, you need a smaller turbo, more displacement, nitrous or VVTi. If the rolling antilag is not enough, I'd get a 50-75hp shot of nitrous and turn it off at 1 bar, or when you have enough boost to get the car going.