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Jack's S366 TT6 Build


JackyBoi
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3 or 4 good squirts from an oil can down each plug hole, spin on the starter with no plugs or compression tester for a few seconds, then test each cylinder in turn. Google wet and dry compression test. it will of course go up considerably. A better test is to try your gauge on a known healthy engine, or try another gauge on yours. If your EGT probe wasn't Inconel and just stainless they do fail through heat. I only EVER use Inconel probes.

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I still think debris from that manifold caused the failure, The popping and banging probably caused some welding slag to fall off. I'd invest in a decent manifold or it will probably happen again.

 

Potentially you're right, all will be revealed once the manifold comes off. I'm looking into buying a 6boost manifold as they look great value for money

 

3 or 4 good squirts from an oil can down each plug hole, spin on the starter with no plugs or compression tester for a few seconds, then test each cylinder in turn. Google wet and dry compression test. it will of course go up considerably. A better test is to try your gauge on a known healthy engine, or try another gauge on yours. If your EGT probe wasn't Inconel and just stainless they do fail through heat. I only EVER use Inconel probes.

 

Lovely, thanks for the help Chris! I think I'm gonna give the wet compression test a go :) I know that an increase would suggest piston rings and a marginal increase/staying the same would suggest valves/valve seat, but what would the results show if neither rings or valves were worn? (Just out of curiosity)

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Potentially you're right, all will be revealed once the manifold comes off. I'm looking into buying a 6boost manifold as they look great value for money

 

So has the cheap manifold been cheap in the long run? Time and money spent sorting it out before you even got a chance to use it, now it potentially just cost you a turbo. So now your buying a new manifold and a new turbo.

 

Buy cheap pay twice [emoji106]

 

 

 

 

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So has the cheap manifold been cheap in the long run? Time and money spent sorting it out before you even got a chance to use it, now it potentially just cost you a turbo. So now your buying a new manifold and a new turbo.

 

Buy cheap pay twice [emoji106]

 

 

 

/QUOTE]

 

I appreciate your 2 pence but you're speculating massively. IF the manifold did cause it then yes, fair enough, you can slate me for buying cheap, but until then pipe down ;)

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I appreciate your 2 pence but you're speculating massively. IF the manifold did cause it then yes, fair enough, you can slate me for buying cheap, but until then pipe down ;)

 

Looking at the blades, something has gone through it.

 

Not heard of 6boost before.

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Looking at the blades, something has gone through it.

 

Not heard of 6boost before.

Doesnt look like anything has gone through it. Looks like the blades have contacted the housing which is consistent with the core collapsing and the subsequent wheels no longer feeling like they are attached to anything.

 

6boost are really quite famous and reliable. Used widely in the motorsport industry especially drifting come pre heatcoated and at a fraction of the price of the usual 2JZ robbery parts:

 

http://www.6boost.eu/

 

 

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Doesnt look like anything has gone through it. Looks like the blades have contacted the housing which is consistent with the core collapsing and the subsequent wheels no longer feeling like they are attached to anything.

 

6boost are really quite famous and reliable. Used widely in the motorsport industry especially drifting come pre heatcoated and at a fraction of the price of the usual 2JZ robbery parts:

 

http://www.6boost.eu/

 

/QUOTE]

 

Yeah I agree. If metal from the manifold was sent into the turbo I would expect to see more damage to the blades, instead it's only around the area where it would have contacted the housing. Besides, we spent hours removing all sharp edges, slag, basically anything that could potentially come off.

 

I'll be taking the manifold off on Friday so I can properly inspect it, then everyone who's dying to slate the eBay special can do so knowing FACTS [emoji6] just haaaave a liiitle paaatience...

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In fairness the photos show no turbine blade damage, and even if they did debris is highly unlikely to enter the turbo oil seal area. If there was turbine blade damage it would be reasonable to suspect debris down the exhaust manifold. This does not seem to be the case. Sudden surging pressure changes from anti lag seems a more likely scenario. It takes a specialised turbo to withstand this sort of pure race excitation.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Progress has been slow recently as I've been working my arse off to pay for everything, but I got it to the garage and stripped all the turbo side of things down, took the manifold off and checked the stem seals.

 

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They look good to me - any opinions?

 

Also settled on a new turbo, I'm gonna go for a Borg Warner S366 this time round. It's just the bog standard cast wheel, .91 A/R with a T4 divided flange. I went for a bigger turbo because it saves me having to upgrade AGAIN when I get a built engine, I don't think I'd wanna push more than 800whp especially for a street setup. Also the S366 sounds awesome vs the Precision so that had a fair weight in what I chose ;)

 

I'll update this as and when progress happens!

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Good luck with the next stage, as you have your suspicions about the manifold being the cause of the dead turbo are you swapping that out this time round?

 

To be honest mate I cleaned up the manifold and had a good look at it (didn't go as far as to take all the heat wrap off though) and it looks fine, exactly the same as when I put it on. In fact, a bloke I met recently has an IS300 with a single turbo conversion and he has the EXACT same manifold as I do - except he hasn't re-worked it whatsoever (no slag removed, wastegate outlets not relocated, not braced) and he's had it running for over a year and it's still going strong. So I'm pretty confident mine is still fine to use and furthermore didn't cause the turbo to fail :)

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Have you gotten to the bottom of what caused the first failure then? Would hate to see you bolt the Borg Warner on and something similar happen.

 

One of two things, more than likely a combination of both:

 

The EGT probe which turns out wasn't Inconel treated that melted a few months ago in the exhaust manifold could have sent bits of swarf around the seal area and generally started to wear it, and;

 

The fact the oil cap came off whilst under hard load and evacuated lots of oil, thus starving the turbo of oil, which was exactly when the turbo's core collapsed due to failing seals.

 

Basically as there is no swarf to be seen anywhere, I'm more than confident it was the oil cap that caused it all. Also drained the oil and checked it and it's completely clear

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To update, the S366 I bought from eBay turned out to be a replica (albeit a very convincing replica but that certainly isn't the point) so I'm in the process of getting my money back. Anyway, it's looking like Niall might be willing to sell me his Boost Labs variant of the S366, which comes with a higher flowing billet comp wheel. Oh and it isn't fake :thumbs:

 

Been busy ordering little bits n bobs for the new setup. I noticed the oil feed for the S366 is a female 1/4NPT so I ordered a -4AN to 1/4NPT straight adaptor so that I can use my current oil feed with the new turbo (current oil feed is a Driftmotion kit.) Gonna be running an unrestricted -4AN oil feed as recommended by many people on here, and a -10 oil drain. I read that if the oil drain exceeds an angle of 15-17 degrees on this turbo there's a risk of it blocking up and pushing seals out, so I'll need to re-work the oil drain hose.

 

Also, since the v-band outlet of the S366 is 4.21", I've decided to up the size of my whole exhaust system to 4". This means I'll be selling the 3" downpipe and 3" Blitz Nur Spec R system soon, so keep an eye on the for sale section for a bargain ;)

 

Photos to follow soon!

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