np89 Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 Oh yeah [emoji48] all props to np89 for sorting me out with this though No problem mate. Pleasure to deal with you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackyBoi Posted November 1, 2016 Author Share Posted November 1, 2016 Can anyone tell me what's going on with these sensors? Are they knock sensors? Is one for my AEM AFR and the other OEM? If so, why didn't the garage replace the OEM sensor with the AEM one rather than add it down the block where a bunch of rods are slapping about? Or if I'm totally wrong then what are they?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
np89 Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 Can anyone tell me what's going on with these sensors? Are they knock sensors? Is one for my AEM AFR and the other OEM? If so, why didn't the garage replace the OEM sensor with the AEM one rather than add it down the block where a bunch of rods are slapping about? Or if I'm totally wrong then what are they?! http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161101/d479fb5cdb9e6b5eaab2d3d2708dbef1.jpg As far as I know thats the whole point of the sensor to measure anything "slapping" in the block at all be that pistons or worse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 The grey one is OEM knock sensor. There is two on the head, otherone will be nearer the waterneck. Other one is aftermarket, looks like a Syvecs sensor? Has nothing to do with your AEM AFR Knock sensors just listen for frequencies that are above a set threshold (indicating knock is occuring). Not sure how your syvecs has been setup, but normally you could ditch the stock ones for the standalone sensors. Should be able to listen to both the stock and syvec sensors. Or the garage was lazy and didn't remove the stock ones Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheTurtleshead Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 One stock, one Bosch for syvecs. I left my stock knock sensors in, something for the stock plugs and wires to clip to rather than dangling... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackyBoi Posted November 1, 2016 Author Share Posted November 1, 2016 Thanks for the information guys, that aftermarket sensor is linked to my Syvecs which makes sense. I guess I'll just keep both of them where they are since they aren't causing a problem, but yeah I would have thought Whifbitz would replace the OEM one for the Syvecs one! Oh well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parry_10 Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 Thanks for the information guys, that aftermarket sensor is linked to my Syvecs which makes sense. I guess I'll just keep both of them where they are since they aren't causing a problem, but yeah I would have thought Whifbitz would replace the OEM one for the Syvecs one! Oh well! Think you're missing the point. It has been replaced for a syvecs one but your oem one has been left there so the oem plug has something to plug into. There's no issue here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 Think you're missing the point. It has been replaced for a syvecs one but your oem one has been left there so the oem plug has something to plug into. There's no issue here But if OEM is not in use then it can be removed completely. Plug can just be hidden Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackyBoi Posted November 1, 2016 Author Share Posted November 1, 2016 Think you're missing the point. It has been replaced for a syvecs one but your oem one has been left there so the oem plug has something to plug into. There's no issue here I caught the point instantly - OEM sensor has been left in place because if it ain't broken..... Was just wondering why/if there's a need for two, that's all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parry_10 Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 (edited) I caught the point instantly - OEM sensor has been left in place because if it ain't broken..... Was just wondering why/if there's a need for two, that's all You really haven't understood at all. just don't think it's fair you're trying to say a company has done something wrong when they haven't that's all. There is no need for the oem one but as stated previously as well it's just neater to have it there with the plug plugged in.... - - - Updated - - - But if OEM is not in use then it can be removed completely. Plug can just be hidden Id rather have it left there and the plug plugged in than a dangling plug but each to their own Edited November 1, 2016 by Parry_10 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 Id rather have it left there and the plug plugged in than a dangling plug but each to their own Messy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackyBoi Posted November 1, 2016 Author Share Posted November 1, 2016 You really haven't understood at all. just don't think it's fair you're trying to say a company has done something wrong when they haven't that's all. - - - Updated - - - Id rather have it left there and the plug plugged in than a dangling plug but each to their own I'm not 'trying to say' anything. I'm a man who either says something or doesn't. I couldn't care less that Whifbitz left the OEM sensor in; I personally would have replaced the OEM sensor with the Syvecs one, but then I'm not Paul Whiffin. If you have nothing constructive to say, don't say it P.S. You clearly haven't read my whole thread; lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parry_10 Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 (edited) I'm not 'trying to say' anything. I'm a man who either says something or doesn't. I couldn't care less that Whifbitz left the OEM sensor in; I personally would have replaced the OEM sensor with the Syvecs one, but then I'm not Paul Whiffin. If you have nothing constructive to say, don't say it P.S. You clearly haven't read my whole thread; lol. ... Edited November 1, 2016 by Parry_10 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berg Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 Same way ive done mine, left the stock sensors on the block and plugged in and the new sensor in the same location as yours No point renmoving them unless youre going to do it properly and open up the loom and compoletely remove the wiring/plugs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackyBoi Posted November 5, 2016 Author Share Posted November 5, 2016 3" vs 4"! This is gonna sound mental! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamjcarson Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 3" vs 4"! This is gonna sound mental! http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161105/d3aa98a069bf72fc503731f224c4b7ee.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161105/c932b15a58ab46630135b504c15df440.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161105/918baa115455df21a16804f4835989c3.jpg Does this mean bigger fireworks from the exhaust [emoji95][emoji95][emoji95][emoji95] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamjcarson Posted November 12, 2016 Share Posted November 12, 2016 Does this mean bigger fireworks from the exhaust [emoji95][emoji95][emoji95][emoji95] Can't fit mine in you need to go bigger [emoji23][emoji23] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackyBoi Posted January 25, 2017 Author Share Posted January 25, 2017 (edited) Been a while since I've updated this thread! Here's some pictures of the custom 4" exhaust system: I ran it with the 4" straight pipe for a few days and it was way too loud, so I've fitted an exhaust back box with a 3" inlet using a 4"-3" reducer: I'm really happy with how it fits and sounds - ground clearance is compromised by the clamp near the downpipe but I'll swap this out for a normal t-bolt clamp asap. This is what it sounded like with the 4" straight pipe: https://vimeo.com/201007362 Anyway it sounds much nicer now and has a proper exhaust note rather than an obnoxious rumble I'll get some footage up of the new back box ASAP for those wondering what a 4" system to a 3" box sounds like. Also bought a new turbo oil drain and some heat protection products from DEI: I still have loads of little cosmetic things to sort out (such as rear reg plate, rear spats, a few minor scratches/dents, interior needs tidying as does the engine bay including the black bonnet insulation) not to mention lots of little mechanical things. But I'll get round to doing it all over winter, just in time for spring hopefully Edited January 25, 2017 by JackyBoi (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
np89 Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 How you finding the turbo mate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoGlE Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 If you say it sounds better with the 3 box than 4 straight through I'm subscribed for a video Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackyBoi Posted January 26, 2017 Author Share Posted January 26, 2017 How you finding the turbo mate? /QUOTE] Haven't driven it properly on boost yet buddy but it looks and sounds amazing! If you say it sounds better with the 3 box than 4 straight through I'm subscribed for a video [emoji16] /QUOTE] The 3" box adds an audible tone to the exhaust note whereas before it was just pure rumble! Video will come ASAP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackyBoi Posted May 4, 2017 Author Share Posted May 4, 2017 (edited) Thought I should give this rather large thread one final update before it dies As you might already know I've decided to part with my Supra as I wasn't getting as much enjoyment from it as I used to, instead it was becoming quite stressful and the cost of having my engine rebuilt along with the other things that needed doing saw me throw in the towel. It was a difficult decision but after realising how much the car was worth in parts I decided to go for it, despite the absolute chaos of breaking a Supra on this forum! I can definitely see myself ending up with another Supra or at least a 2JZ in the future; the first 2 years of ownership were bliss but like I said after that it all got a bit expensive and stressful. Despite my lack of a Supra I'll still be active on the forum, checking out everyone's epic summer builds and whatnot But for now, I'm just going to enjoy this new toy... (I know, I know... 'He bought a Supra, sold it because it was too expensive to maintain, and now he's bought an rx7?!') I won't bore you guys with a spec list but she was rebuilt and street ported 15k miles ago with a single turbo conversion, running a healthy 400rwhp and 360ft/lbs. Just needs a full service, new wheels, suspension adjustment, and a few body adjustments aka bye bye spoiler. I'm extremely happy with her for the price of £8k. It's been a pleasure guys! Edited May 4, 2017 by JackyBoi (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 4, 2017 Share Posted May 4, 2017 Do you want me to e-mail you the service manual..... Electronic copies are best as paper ones usually have a totally illegible, oil stained engine section. Seriously though, a well set up one is a total joy to drive, sublime chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarleyFDMD Posted May 4, 2017 Share Posted May 4, 2017 I love RX7s and would love to own one. The only thing that puts me off is there renowned reliability issues. Perhaps they aren't as bad as people make out they are, people do tend to exaggerate things. 8k for that does seem very very cheap. Particularly when you consider what a supra equivalent would cost (your old car for example) I do think you must have hit your head on something hard to seriously swap out a supra for an RX7 on reliability terms Good luck with it though, it does look nice. Bin the spoiler though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackyBoi Posted May 4, 2017 Author Share Posted May 4, 2017 Do you want me to e-mail you the service manual..... Electronic copies are best as paper ones usually have a totally illegible, oil stained engine section. Seriously though, a well set up one is a total joy to drive, sublime chassis. I'm sure it will come in handy I've read nothing but good things about the rx7 except for the reliability of the 13b of course. I love RX7s and would love to own one. The only thing that puts me off is there renowned reliability issues. Perhaps they aren't as bad as people make out they are, people do tend to exaggerate things. 8k for that does seem very very cheap. Particularly when you consider what a supra equivalent would cost (your old car for example) I do think you must have hit your head on something hard to seriously swap out a supra for an RX7 on reliability terms [emoji28][emoji28] Good luck with it though, it does look nice. Bin the spoiler though! I don't think it's as bad as people make out to be. It is undeniably much less reliable than any piston engine equivalent, but if it has been well maintained through its life (frequent oil & filter changes, proper warm up & cool down procedures, not bouncing off the limiter all day long etc) then you can expect over 100k miles from a stock engine. Granted, running at 400bhp on any 13b is gonna see it fail before 100k, but a PROPER rebuild can cost as little as 2k, providing you don't need new rotors or housings, and even they aren't painfully expensive. It's cheaper than I thought, which is why I went for it and yes the spoiler is going don't worry! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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