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NA supercharger build


barneybrendan

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I don't think so Barney (you mean FPR not AFR?), the car should still be able to start on the 550's even when it's mapped for 330's. Something else has to be wrong... Unless you can check the map it's impossible to know what it's been setup for.

 

Going back to stock NA injectors and removing the MAP2 might be an easy(ish) troubleshooting step. If it doesn't start after that you'll be narrow down the potential problems a huge amount

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I don't think so Barney (you mean FPR not AFR?), the car should still be able to start on the 550's even when it's mapped for 330's. Something else has to be wrong... Unless you can check the map it's impossible to know what it's been setup for.

 

Going back to stock NA injectors and removing the MAP2 might be an easy(ish) troubleshooting step. If it doesn't start after that you'll be narrow down the potential problems a huge amount

 

would i need to remove the ecu as i said it was mapped and running before when i had the big intake plenum and larger throttlebody.

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I don't think so Barney (you mean FPR not AFR?), the car should still be able to start on the 550's even when it's mapped for 330's. Something else has to be wrong... Unless you can check the map it's impossible to know what it's been setup for.

 

Going back to stock NA injectors and removing the MAP2 might be an easy(ish) troubleshooting step. If it doesn't start after that you'll be narrow down the potential problems a huge amount

 

There is quite a big difference between the two injector sizes 220CC to be precise, so the pulse width for the 330cc injector when applied to a 550cc injector will be squirting a fair bit more fuel, and if you take cold start conditions (even more pulse width)it will be a bit on the rich side ;)

 

I would at least chuck the 330cc injectors back in and loose the resistor pack. it will give the opportunity to see if it will start and it won't do any harm on low pressures/load.

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I'm only going on past experience Ricky, so could well be wrong :D On my old setup the car would start and idle (badly) with the stock ECU and 800cc injectors. 440 vs 800, that's quite a difference but granted it won't work if there are significant differences like injector lag.

 

I agree with you on changing the injectors to stock and bypassing the resistor pack, if only for troubleshooting.

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I'm only going on past experience Ricky, so could well be wrong :D On my old setup the car would start and idle (badly) with the stock ECU and 800cc injectors. 440 vs 800, that's quite a difference but granted it won't work if there are significant differences like injector lag.

 

I agree with you on changing the injectors to stock and bypassing the resistor pack, if only for troubleshooting.

 

Wow! i wouldn't of expected that to start with the std ECU, in that case maybe it should have started with the 550s:blink:

 

On the std ECU the lag time is set so if you add bigger injectors which require different lag settings i'm not sure which way that would push things, you would have to ask Ryan or IanC.

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just picked up the bits from the engineers.

the pulley is now 98.5 mm and alloy this now gives me a 2-1 ratio

the bov now has a piece of stainless tube screwed into it so i can weld the rest of the recirculation pipe work.

the tube with the flange has had a hole taped for the map ecu IAT sensor.

going to now fit this little lot so i can measure up for the size belt i need,and get the tensioner bracket in pplace.

ref not starting,now thinking the dizzy could be out as its been in the shed for a while and moved around a bit.so its a case of get tdc and rotor arm facing number 1 plug .

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You are nearly there mate , as to starting its just a slow methodical series of checks one by one ,air, fuel,ignition,timing ,wiring - as you had not even a hint of the engine firing on any cylinder -it should be a bit easier

Once started - it will - before mapping to big power- check again,and again ,throttle opening ,leaks,all voltages correct where it should be ,all air systems opening closing and leaks .

A couple of leaking clamps or drips can ruin your dyno time and spoil your day ,usually its one of those DOH moments!

Once done and running well ,you can then alter a few things to give small improvements such as flow straighteners at the bends in pipework and reduce the 90 degree bends ,add oil to the charger rotors,get pressure drops and temps ,and adjust the boost etc

So far you have done a great job!

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well didnt realy get much done today.most of the day spent running around after steal and belts.got the new charger pulley fitted and the bov in place.went to put the IAT sensor in but they have sent me a 2m harness not a 3m one so thats too short to reach the ecu now.couldnt get the size belt i needed so had to order that.not going to plan the day anymore as it seems to go pear shape when i do.

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got the car fired up today.but the oil light is staying on if i take the cap off i can really see much oil flining about.im getting oil to the filter as i cracked a blanker off and cranked the engine ,oil was pumped out.

now i have to strip the charger all back off to get at the oil adapter to see if i have flow.

just double checking that the oil flow is up through the bolt .and that i have the pipes fitted correctly.the pipes going to the filter are longish would that make a difference.

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Is it possible that there is so much extra piping it wont be able to reach the same pressures . would it be possible to fit a pressure gauge into the system?

 

i was thinking that maybe think about mounting it near the bulk head somwhere.i can mount a pressure switch in the filter housing.

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I am pretty sure the extra length of pipe to the filter won't make any noticable difference to pressure, I probably have over 4m of pipe on mine first to the remote filter and then to my oil cooler and then back to the engine.

 

Hope you get it sorted soon and that it is just a loose connection or dodgy sensor.

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I am pretty sure the extra length of pipe to the filter won't make any noticable difference to pressure, I probably have over 4m of pipe on mine first to the remote filter and then to my oil cooler and then back to the engine.

 

Hope you get it sorted soon and that it is just a loose connection or dodgy sensor.

 

ideal cheers mate thats one thing at rest then.might be the sensor as i couldnt remember which one went where.theres 2 sensors that seem identicle ill find the problem .

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You had one of those Frankenstein moments ;"The beast lives":)

Just the one small oil sensor problem?

 

yes i think you can spend too much time on something and the most simple thing iludes you then take a brake and it comes to you .

pitty the weather crap at the moment cant realy do much

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