Chris Wilson Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 Find a scrap arm and take the boot off it for yours. To be honest if you just leave it nothing much will happen, it'll still last ages like that. I don't have any arms, sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 Pinch it together either side of the hole and clean the edges with brake cleaner, then put a dod of super glue on it and let go. That should be okay for a while, you can't get them from Mr T, it's aftermarket from local motor factor or second hand OE, I think I have one in my toolbox, I'll take a look at the weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted January 28, 2016 Author Share Posted January 28, 2016 Ok, thanks. I'll try getting in touch with Keron too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Mitchell Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 Cracking build this is. Always love the updates Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted January 31, 2016 Share Posted January 31, 2016 I have found that boot if you are still in need? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted January 31, 2016 Author Share Posted January 31, 2016 Cracking build this is. Always love the updates Thanks Rob. Thats good praise coming from a guy with attention to detail like you. I have found that boot if you are still in need? I tried your glue trick David, seemed to block up the small puncture. However, I'd be grateful of a spare boot please. Pm me if ya like. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evinX Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 I do love this project, what a long journey its been on and to still be around and going well to! id love to see this or even have it parked next to mine one day for some shots Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted February 1, 2016 Author Share Posted February 1, 2016 I do love this project, what a long journey its been on and to still be around and going well to! id love to see this or even have it parked next to mine one day for some shots A long journey indeed, but thanks to lots of help from SRD and others the car made it though. I hope to get out and about in it this year and come to some of the meets. I still want to change the wheels as thats the only big thing looks wise that I've not done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PARADOX_sf Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 Great project Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 Great project Ed, a wealth of information too. So am I correct in saying that you are still using the TTC adapter rings with a V160 box, CW clutch and a TTV flywheel with stock clutch release mechanism? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted March 4, 2016 Author Share Posted March 4, 2016 ...still using the TTC adapter rings with a V160 box, CW clutch and a TTV flywheel with stock clutch release mechanism? Yep, thats what I'm running. Working really well, but the clutch is noisy at Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 Yep, thats what I'm running. Working really well, but the clutch is noisy at Thanks for the confirmation Ed, dont suppose you have a list of the stock clutch part numbers you had to get. I am trying to contact TTV at the moment with little success, the number I have is not working and no response on email, looking on their site I dont see a 1UZ flywheel that is listed as working with the V160 and stock TT clutch setup but I know both you and Ryan had them made. http://ttvracing.com/products/?manufacturers=toyota&engine=toyota-1uz-fe&type=flywheels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 Yep, thats what I'm running. Working really well, but the clutch is noisy at It won't be the clutch that's noisy, it's the gearbox. The stock Getrag set up used a dual mass flywheel to dampen harmonics before they entered the gearbox. With a solid flywheel the gears rattle. Ideally you want a stock type clutch plate but with damper springs in it, and I would imagine it would have to be a custom one, assuming there's enough clearance inside the pressure plate and flywheel to accommodate them. That should dampen the harmonics in a similar way to the dual mass flywheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted February 10, 2017 Author Share Posted February 10, 2017 Thought it time for a small update. Year 2 since Lee and his team got me on road. Covered about 4500 miles this yr (about the same last yr too), using it pretty much as my daily car. Still loving it Finally swapped out my very old Eagle F1's for some new rubber two weeks ago (rear end was slipping all over the place when accelerating hard). Went for Michelin SP4's. Change is like night and day, I can now put some power down in first gear. They seem very good tyres, but obviously not tested them in really dry conditions. Confidence is up in the wet though, which is making driving a bit more fun and less brown trouser like. I had an overheating issue a while back, which was identified as a faulty thermostat. Quick call to Mr Manley, and this was sorted. No further issues. I've learned to live with the clutch noise at low revs, however, I noticed a few days ago that the clutch is starting to slip a bit, intermittently. As stated earlier its only done about 9000 miles so I'm thinking it might be something other than wear and tear....? Any ideas peeps? Only other minor gremlin is that the car could do with some solution for idle control. As long as I warm the car up a bit before I set off in these cold conditions its fine, but it can be annoying if I'm running late. Lee tried a few things, but the Link ecu is holding him back from doing what he wants. I'm toying with a Syvecs instal, but as you all know thats a big investment. Some overtime at work perhaps..... Oh, there is one more small thing. I'm getting a noise (bit more than a rattle), inside the boot area and can't seem to identify where from. I recall something about boot rubbers, but mine appears to shut with no play at all, so wondered if there are any other known areas for noises here. As for new mods, and apart from an ecu, I'd like to fit a new diff. What are peoples thoughts on aftermarket LSD's? Also, the engine runs out of puff after 5000revs, and although I have plenty of fun torque and usable power, I'd like to improve the intake side as I reckon thats letting the engine down. Still deciding whether or not to explore this, but I have a few ideas...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slam Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 Have you moved battery to the boot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tintinmt Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 In my experience the boot rubber can cause a surprising amount of noise whilst still looking OK. It's not a particularly difficult or expensive job provided you follow the advice threads on here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 Have you moved battery to the boot. Nope, still in the front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 In my experience the boot rubber can cause a surprising amount of noise whilst still looking OK. It's not a particularly difficult or expensive job provided you follow the advice threads on here. Hmm, I think I might just replace them then. See if it helps. Ta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdMorris Posted February 28, 2017 Author Share Posted February 28, 2017 Did some mpg figures. Getting roughly 17mpg, mostly motorway. How does that fair with modded 2JZ's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Depends how they are modded, a good map on a small single with closed loop fuelling and sensible cams should be similar. A bad map, wild cams and no closed loop can be into single figures as the bores wash and the black smoke emits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Did some mpg figures. Getting roughly 17mpg, mostly motorway. How does that fair with modded 2JZ's? I could get 25+ without trying too hard in my UK TT auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burna Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 I could get 25+ without trying too hard in my UK TT auto Yeah about the same for normal driving, the single turbos always get better mpg on motorway cruising as they arent on boost like a twin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slam Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Nope, still in the front. I have seen a v8 with air intake behind both headlights. Guess it will help. Sorry for late replying Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 I imagine the UK TT's must be capable of decent motorway MPG given their gearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 I imagine the UK TT's must be capable of decent motorway MPG given their gearing. Had 30 out of mine once but that was driving very sensibly on a long run with no stopping other than for fuel in mainland europe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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