garethr

Last couple I've bought have been Bosch S4. The 005 is about £70 from Euro Car Parts or a few quid cheaper off ebay. If the financial penalty isn't too large, I prefer to buy locally. It's easier to return the battery if it packs up before the guarantee runs out. (I don't know what the Supra battery tray is like, but I have fitted a larger battery - more amp hours - in the Soarer.)

Obviously we have the advantage of driving on the same side of the road as the Japanese, so we don't have to worry about headlights. If the car is more than 10 years old, all we have to do is make the speedometer read in miles per hour, add a rear fog light, and pass the annual roadworthiness test ("the MOT test"). MOT regulations >>>> http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/htdocs/index.htm If it's less than 10 years old it has to pass a more stringent Individual Vehicle Approval test (IVA). We have it easy compared to you.

The tester won't care who made the catalytic converter. The only issue is whether the required emissions test is passed.

Yeah, just speedo conversion, rear fog lamp (search the forum), and MOT. Testers sometimes have difficulty with the emissions, but just make sure that he follows the flowchart >>>> http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/htdocs/index.htm

In my experience, half the automotive forum world doesn't understand higher/longer vs lower/shorter. It's always a good topic for an argument, though. I was taught "higher number = lower/shorter gear". Obvious when you consider that 1st gear (2.804:1) is lower than 4th gear (0.753:1).

No idea what the cause might be, Craig, but my advice would be to fit a Soarer TT engine and box. Since it's an A340, what happens if you unplug the electrics from the box? That should allow you to select 1, 3, 4 (O/D) with the lever in 1, 2, D. Juddering does seem as if it might be the TC lock-up clutch. It should be disengaged below about 35mph. Does it happen if you change down to 1 on the lever? http://www.autoshop101.com/techarticles/technicalarticles.html Technical Articles Toyota Series - Automatic Transmissions AT01 Fundamentals of Automatic Transmissions.pdf 144KB AT02 Torque Converter.pdf 478KB AT03 Simpson Planetary Gear Unit.pdf 380KB AT04 Gear Selection and Function.pdf 20KB AT05 Power Flow.pdf 1211KB AT06 Automatic Transmission Fluid.pdf 27KB AT07 Transmission Oil Pump.pdf 136KB AT08 Valve Body Circuits.pdf 963KB AT09 A340H Transfer.pdf 60KB AT10 Electrical Control.pdf 308KB AT11 Transmission Check, Adjustments and Diagnosis.pdf 170KB AT12 Shift Lock System.pdf 186KB AT13 Appendix.pdf 1290KB Technical Articles Toyota Series - Automatic Transmissions AT21 Automatic Transmission Basics.pdf 1723KB AT22 U-Series Transaxle.pdf 947KB AT23 Valve Body Circuits.pdf 610KB AT24 Electronic Control System.Pdf 860KB AT25 Diagnostic Procedures.pdf 621KB AT26 Diagnostic Tester.pdf 485KB AT27 Remanufactured Transmission.pdf 186KB AT28 Appendix.pdf 339KB

Do you mean the wiring connectors? http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?61141-How-To-Refurbish-coil-pack-connectors (Or raid the Renaults in your local scrappie )

One of the Aussie Soarer gurus developed a Tremec 6-speed conversion. if it wlil fit in a Soarer it will fit in a Supra. The gear ratios might be the problem with the Tremecs. They have really high ratios with double overdrive (to meet the CAFE requirements in the US). Good for a big naturally-aspirated or supercharged V8, not so good behind a little turbo 6. Craig's thread from 2010 >>>> http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?222367-ls1-supra (with a contribution from some bloke called Chris Wilson )

It's the same part number (12102-46030) for the Soarer/Supra 1JZ-GTE, the Supra 2JZ-GTE, and the Soarer/Supra 2JZ_GE.

There is not really anything similar in the GB MOT, just a general "roadworthy" requirement. Northern Ireland may be different. Looking at Section 62, it's all a bit vague. What changes would be a problem? If they mean, for example, replacement aftermarket dampers, they'll have to fail half the cars on the road.

http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/htdocs/index.htm

Bear in mind that the later UZs (from 1994?) have weaker connecting rods. As far as the exhaust is concerned, the reason it's such an easy(ish) swap is that the Supra used the Soarer chassis and crossmember, and the Soarer was fitted with the V8 (so you need a Soarer sump, not LS/GS).

Image (from Club Lexus) on Supraforums -- 2JZ-GE VVTi conrod vs the rod from all the other 2JZs http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?636149-Help-jdm-2jzgte-or-2jzgte-vvti&p=8965432&viewfull=1#post8965432

The list doesn't say MkIV, it just says Supra, so they were probably all MkIIIs. TOYOTA SUPRA 25 TOYOTA Supra Auto 2 TOYOTA SUPRA TURBO 2 TOYOTA Supre 1 TOYOTA Toyota Supra 1 and one Celica Supra. And Lexus Soarer 1 LEXUS SOARUS 1 TOYOTA SOARA COUPE 1 TOYOTA Soarer 6 TOYOTA SOARER COUPE 2 and 3 Toyota Scarlets

Probably all Mark 3s.

Let's put it this way... The 7M-GTE is probably the reason that the JZ engines are so over-engineered.

WD40 isn't the best penetrating fluid. Arm yourself with something like PlusGas.

Lower number:1 = higher (longer/taller) gearing -- fewer revs at a given road speed. Higher number:1 = lower (shorter) gearing -- more revs at a given road speed. No code has to be inserted here. Based on those numbers: 1-5 on the V161 are higher than the V160. 6 on the V161 is lower than the V160. Close ratio / wide ratio refers to the "gap" between the gears. No code has to be inserted here.

Searching the web for "ideal automatic transmission temperature" returns a lot of info, mostly for American gearboxes, as you might expect. For example: http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/general/hrdp_1110_technical_questions_and_answers/ The consensus seems to be that ATF should be 175 to 200 F or about 80 to 95 C, and that above 225F/107C is bad. There is nothing to stop you using a bypass thermostat for the transmission cooler(s). Think Automotive (Mocal) sell 80 and 92 degree thermostats with 3/8 or 1/2 inch (c. 10mm/13mm) tails.

The Aussies seem to like Toyota boxes for their V8s (although I don't know Holdens if are the same as SBCs), so it might be worth looking round some Australian sites.

The Supra TT box (and, presumably, the Aristo box) is stronger than the other A340s, so the answer is "the Aristo TT, perhaps". I've seen a pic somewhere of the TT box clutchpacks compared with the N/A box clutchpacks - Supraforums, perhaps?

or http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121390975190

Bear in mind that you need a Soarer sump (not easy to find separately because there aren't many wrecked engines), and the early UZ rods are a lot stronger.

The EPC lists PK20R8 for the Soarer TT and PK20TR11 for the VVTi.

The 1JZ-GTE TT 'box has cable-controlled line pressure. As far as I know, the 1JZ-GTE VVTi auto is also cable-controlled. EDIT: Checked the EPC - looks like it isn't, which might explain why the 2ZJ-GTE ECU can control the 1JZ-GTE VVTi auto. The 2JZ-GTE line pressure is solenoid-controlled. Can the PCS controller deal with that? As for the extra solenoids... IIRC, the non-tiptronic solenoids are 2 for changing gear (S1 and S2), torque converter lock-up (SLU), line pressure (SLT) and "accumulator back pressure" (SLN - to control the smoothness of the gearchanges? to stop the car squatting on the neutral to drive change?). The latter two are "pulse width modulated", hence the question about the PCS controller. No idea what S3 and S4 do, though. On the face of it, they are not needed for the Tiptronic control. I believe that the V8 Soarers and SC400s have the "SLN" solenoid, and I understand that the box will still work with it disconnected.