garethr

That is incorrect. http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/htdocs/m4s07000301.htm Vehicles fitted with a different engine must be tested to the requirements of whichever is older the engine or the vehicle.

Google says that's the Pagid part number. http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Toyota_Supra_3.0_1996/p/Car-Parts/Service-Parts/Regular-Service/Brake-Pads/?101820548&1&b8f9dee51913a94b49fa018ae39df2e3947a9ce0&000036

It's the driver's side in the USA... Face-drive socket or ring spanner? Although that looks pretty butchered. Weld a socket to the bolt head? Wait until you have to remove the 'box to fit a new clutch?

That looks like early Soarer (see post #7 above >>> http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?302413-R154-and-2JZ-questions&p=3808198&viewfull=1#post3808198). Used a swan-neck lever in the Soarer. Not sure if it works in a Supra or not.

This is what is recommended in the Think Automotive (Mocal) catalogue: Installing an oil cooler In the case of the air to oil cooler, the oil cooler will only achieve results where a volume of air is passing through the fins. The amount of heat dissipated by radiation is negligible. In practice the most convenient position for the oil cooler is in front of the water radiator where a flow of air is guaranteed. Even in cases where the water cooling is marginal, placing the cooler in this position will have hardly any effect on water temperature. The sheer volume of air passing through the cooler ensures that the air is only heated a few degrees, not enough to affect the water radiator performance, and as the oil cooler is a more efficient device for extracting heat from the engine, the overall effect is helpful. However, where water cooling is marginal it is essential that the oil cooler be placed against the water radiator face, otherwise warmer air leaving the oil cooler will become turbulent on meeting air at ambient temperatures and will not pass through the water radiator. If placing of cooler and water radiator in close proximity is not possible then a duct of thin aluminium should be made to exclude the ambient air. If space is not available in front of the water radiator, due to an electrical fan, for instance, the cooler may be mounted behind the radiator and will still work well for the reasons already given.

You have to remember that the US only has the LHD Supras that were officially imported and sold by Toyota - no grey imports. Limited number of cars + demand = higher prices.

That's correct. The ECU controls the 1/2/3/OD gearchanges through the solenoids. If the solenoids are disconnected you still have manual control of 1/3/OD (and reverse, I assume) on an A340.

Does it move when you select 1/2/D with the gearbox disconnected from the ECU? Does it move when you select reverse? If it doesn't, that suggests a problem with the 'box. MANUAL SHIFT TEST The manual shift test is used to determine if the cause of the malfunction is electrical or hydraulic. The electrical connector for the solenoid is disconnected at the transmission, disabling the shift solenoids. The transmission is shifted by moving the gear selector to Manual Low to start the vehicle moving. The first upshift occurs when the lever is moved to Manual Second. The transmission should shift into third or overdrive gear depending on the transmission model. An A-140, A-240, or A-340 series transmission will shift into third gear in Manual Two position, whereas an A-540 will shift into overdrive. The A-140, A-240, and A-340 will shift into overdrive when the gear selector is moved to the Drive position. If the transmission upshifts as described, the problem is likely to be found in the electrical system... If the transmission does not upshift as described, the problem is likely to be found in the hydraulic system.

Buy one of these: EDIT: Original equipment Toyota filters are 73mm x 14 flats

Mock up, unfortunately http://planetsoarer.com/part3/index.htm Don't know if it was ever completed.

Depending on the route you take, thought these might be useful: http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/42173082/2JZ-GTE%20VVTi%20JZS161%20Aristo%20Engine%20Wiring http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/41678224/2JZ-GE%20JZA80%20Supra http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/ Also this thread on ClubLuxus, which is specific to a non-VVTi Aristo into Lexus SC swap, but also serves as general instructions on how to approach the rewiring http://www.clublexus.com/forums/performance-and-maintenance/727672-2jzgte-wiring-harness-made-easy.html 1100 USD plus shipping plus whatever he'd charge for using longer wires. Don't know how that compares with a new Supra VVTi TT engine harness.

No they won't, and they use solid, not vented, discs, so you wouldn't want them even if they did.

Found a couple of threads on the Australian forum http://www.supraforums.com.au/forum/topic/16967-project-szr-to-tt/?hl=98szr http://www.supraforums.com.au/forum/topic/25411-1998-rz-vvti/?hl=98szr Australia has more rules about engine swaps than the UK, so there may be some issues that you don't have to worry about.

Found this, but there would obviously be an issue with LHD vs RHD http://www.tweakdperformance.com/onlinestore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_9&products_id=96 Would it be worth checking the Aussie Supra forum and Toymods? They import a lot of front cuts, so somebody may have done a VVTi swap.

If the ECU isn't connected to the gearbox solenoids you can change gear manually, but, according to http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/AT25.pdf: L = Low (1st) 2 = 3rd D = overdrive (4th)

I think it's only the early TT cars - JZX81 and JZA70 (and the 2JZ-GTE in the JZS147) - that have the hydraulic fan. Mr T. seems to have realized that it was a solution looking for a problem and the later TTs have a viscous-coupled fan, and AFAIK all the VVTi JZs have electric fans. I'd love a VVTi 1JZ. Same claimed power as the twin turbo, but max torque is greater and arrives at 2800 rpm rather than 4800 rpm. http://www.3sgte.com/1JZGTE.htm

Everything you need to know is here and here.

Same part for all the JZs that have the same sump position (Supra, Soarer), according to the EPC.

Stebel, FIAMM, PIAA, Hella, Bosch all make kits like the Toyota Premium kit. Or visit your local scrappy and rip a pair of hi-lo windtone horns off a BMW or Merc or VAG car. Not sure what the wiring is like on the Supra. If unsure, take a fused feed directly from the battery and use a relay.

For some reason I had 7M-GE - 170 bhp in my head.

Doesn't the 2JZ produce 50+ more bhp than a 7M? Perhaps it's as simple as more power = more exhaust gases = more noise? Also, would the cam timing and overlap change the sound? Not forgetting that the 2JZ is square (86 x 86) and the 7M is undersquare (83 x 91).

You need a 1JZ bell housing. Driftmotion sell it if all else fails. Forgot I had these pics -- JZX110 extension made to fit a Supra 'box:

Bearing in mind that the Suprastick won't work with the TT valve body, because the TT has electronic line pressure control, so you need a TT box with the valve body and cable from an N/A (as on David P's project), or perhaps a Soarer TT box (not sure how much stronger they are, or if they are stronger).

As far as gear ratios are concerned, I have: R154 3.250 1.955 1.310 1.000 0.753 W58 3.285 1.894 1.275 1.000 0.783

1JZ-GTE flywheel. 1JZ-GTE or 7M-GTE clutch. There are 4 different shifters that I know of: Short extension - Mk3 Supra turbo A bit longer extension with swan-neck lever - early Soarer Cradle like the Mk4 W58 - late Soarer (and JZXs?) Even longer extension - very late JZXs First pic is early Soarer on left and Supra 2nd pic is late Soarer 3rd pic is JZX110