stevie_b

It's got provenance! If it was Princess Diana or William Wallace driving, then it would probably be worth a lot of money.

I'm interested in the W58 box if you'll split.

So do you mean he wants either a TT auto, or an NA manual?

Based on the thread that I linked to in the 1st post, I can see Annabella's point. But it seems many people have been using it without issues, so I won't sweat it. I didn't trowel it on, just a thin smear.

Thanks for your input guys, I appreciate it.

When I tried to remove the roadwheels from my Ford Cmax recently, they were stuck on. I had to drive around the block with the wheel nuts loose in order to free the wheels. That did the trick, but when I put the wheels back on, I used a bit of copper grease between the inboard alloy wheel surface and the hub surface to prevent it happening again. See post #5 in this thread: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?332876-Wheel-spacers-how-safe&p=4136621&viewfull=1#post4136621 It makes me think the copper grease was a bad idea. What do you think? And if it's a bad idea, what's the best way of preventing the wheels from seizing onto the hubs in future? Some kind of non-metallic gasket might do it.

Mine's completely stock bodied: no bodykit, stock bumpers, stock suspension, stock wheels (16"). It still fouls the undertray if I approach the front cross-member from the front of the car. Will be interesting if you can reach yours without using wood etc.

Annabella, what's your jacking point when using that jack on your supra? I guess you must jack near the sills. The jack starts off low to the ground, but then there's the big hump. I only jack on the cross-member (for the front) or the diff (for the rear). Same question to David as well please. Your beastly jack looks like the same design as mine, but I can't get mine to the front cross-member without getting a little bit of extra height first. It fouls the undertray otherwise. Does yours make it to the cross-member without fouling anything, or do you use a different jacking point? Not my photo, but here's my 3-tonner on the left:

Absolutely, happy birthday ma'am!

That's my other jack I was talking about. I can lift this one, but the 3-tonner is a different story.

I've got an Arcan XL30R, very similar to yours. It's really heavy. I remember reading on a 911 forum that "you would NOT want to spill its pint!" I might sell mine at some point: it's too noisy/heavy to pull up my sloped drive to a flat surface where I do my jacking. I've got it's smaller brother, a 2 tonne Arcan, and use that all the time now. Although with the XL30R and the 2-tonner, I still need to drive one of the supra's front wheels onto a small block of wood to get the clearance to jack the car.

Hi Ade, When it's up to scratch, maybe £12k. There's someone on here who is specifically after a UK spec red supra in standard condition.

I was intending to buy this one: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?330651-Now-redundant-parts-from-going-single-Lots-of-bits/page4 I don't know if the OP still has it, I haven't heard in a while.

I'm in a similar position, I need to sort out my crumbling 40+ year old concrete driveway. Have you considered block paving? That's the front-runner for me at the moment, but I've not looked into it deeply. Probably expensive. One piece of advice I've been given from a groundworker in my family: if your water main runs underneath your driveway and it's fairly old, best get it replaced at the same time as doing your driveway.

OK, so you're good to check for error codes. I'm hoping there are none: if there are any, it's weird that the MIL light doesn't come on whilst driving.

Does it come on when you turn the ignition to position 2 (i.e. without the engine started)?

What makes them worth so much? Rarity I suppose, wikipedia says only 351 were built.

First thing is to read any error codes that might be stored by the ECU. You just need a paperclip and 2 minutes of your time. Search on here for the instructions. A couple of things people are often tripped up by: 1) you'll need to disarm the immobiliser when the time comes to read the flashes. 2) it's not uncommon for the engine MIL light (the orange engine symbol) not to work due to a dry solder on its circuit board: if that's the case, you'll need to fix this problem first before you can read error codes. If you want to do a thorough job, disconnect the battery first (or unplug specific fuses, but I can't remember which ones) to clear out any old codes.

Is the whine engine-speed related, or is it car-speed related? Unlikely to be induction noise I would think. For the overdrive light, test to see if you've got any fault codes logged (search on here for the paperclip test if you're unfamiliar with it). If it's engine-speed related, it could be one of the pulleys driven by the auxiliary belt, but that's just a guess without further fault-finding.

If you're not sure of the part number, you could phone a Toyota dealer (or Steve Manley) with your chassis number. They'll be able to tell you the part number.

Hello again Michael. What car are you running about in these days?

Average speed of 131mph: so we know it wasn't an NA owner.

Who is it? PM if you don't want to say here.

Congratulations! Knock em dead!

I was going to write something cheeky comparing this to the boot release thread, but then I read comments in this thread about filing off lugs, etc. :o