stevie_b

Is the Quicksilver colour code 6NO? E.g. this: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?330461-1999-Toyota-Supra-Twin-Turbo-6-speed

I've got a feeling the auto ECU is fine with a manual gearbox. Best confirm this though.

W58 box wanted from a mk4. Must be in vgc, well looked after.

You have PM: I think the OP has already bought a W58 from someone else (please correct me if I'm wrong).

I see, yes that is confusing. I can't see any reason why there wouldn't be a speed limit on your car if the wiring around there is stock, with a stock ECU. Strange.

This is still available. I was intending to buy it and I put a deposit down to secure it, but due to my own circumstances I've had to pull out. The seller has patiently held it for me for the last few weeks. I never got to the stage of viewing the car myself, but the seller said he's fine with anyone wanting to have it inspected, either by themselves or professionally. I also found a VVTi airbox for sale on here from j_jaz80, because it was my plan to return it to 100% stock. As far as I know he's still got the airbox for sale.

I don't know what the behaviour is if the ECU doesn't see a speed signal on the pink wire at all (which is how you've got it at the moment?) My guess is that you won't be limited, but the ECU will generate a code 42 (speed sensor/signal error).

I think the TTs use a different diff, with different ratios. I don't know if they're swappable, I think they might be.

Interested in the box if Richie doesn't want it.

When looking at sold prices on ebay, note that not all W58 boxes are the same. The ones out of mkIII supras for example are a little bit different to those from mkIV supras. Both will fit fine, but a few of the internal parts are a different grade. I *think* the mkIV ones are a little bit stronger, but I don't know that for sure.

I'm in the market for a W58 box (just the box). The synchros on mine are worn and I either want to replace the box or refurb my current box. If you've got a box for sale and I can be assured it's in VGC, I'll be happy to arrange a deal.

I imagine that if you did it, you might gain some noticeable downforce when travelling at high speeds (100mph+) in a straight line, but the handling/cornering would suffer badly at all speeds.

It's normal for the insides to be rusty. Check the rubber seals around the neck of the pistons. To do a thorough job, I'd recommend removing the caliper from the disc, put some wood where the disc would usually go, and pump the brakes to get get the pistons out (not too far, you don't want any of the pistons to pop out though!). You can get a good look at the rubber seal/dust boot, check for splits.

Thank you. I've just registered and will ask now. Unfortunately my TT6 deal will fall through in a day or so if I don't get something sorted out, but here goes...

Having a working alarm would be a condition of insurance. If I disconnect the battery, it wouldn't be covered. Also, insurance companies tend to want to have the car garaged at the home address. I think they're Ok with professional storage with security measures etc, but not with a lockup.

Just repeating others' views, but here's my 2p worth: I don't think you'll notice it after a while. I have family who used to live extremely close to a railway level crossing. They genuinely couldn't hear it after a while. Some random thoughts (again, others have already mentioned some of them): Easy commute by train. Decent glazing will reduce the noise to a murmur. Does the house have a decent driveway? If so you could rent out some space on it for a commuter to park on. Not big money but it all helps.

The maintenance is separate: I've already budgeted for that. The problem for me is storage. I phoned up a few insurance companies, and the consensus was that it must be garaged overnight. I would have to garage it anyway for my own peace of mind. I'm not keen on lockups, and professional storage is too expensive for me to justify. I've been considering barn storage, but I don't know where to start with something like that: I'm not sure insurance would be happy either.

I wasn't going to post this, but my wife has persuaded me. An opportunity has come up for me to own a fairly original TT6. I have the purchase money, but I'm struggling to come up with a solution for storing it. I can't store it at my home, and a lockup is impractical for security, insurance and practical reasons, e.g. keeping the battery charged. Ideally I'd store it at a professional car storage place like this: http://www.autolocker.co.uk/ The problem here is the cost, at £1200+/year. It's the going rate for storage, but I don't have the spare cash on top of all the other ownership costs. My head is telling me that if I can't manage £1200 per year for storage, then it's not the car for me. But my heart really wants it. I own an NA which I love. It's great for tinkering with, not too hard to work on, and I'm not afraid to drive it around, leave it overnight if needed, etc. It's a great hobby car, and occasional 2nd transport if my daily driver is off the road for whatever reason. I'm looking to own the TT6 for different reasons: to drive it occasionally, but to keep it pristine and original. Any thoughts, advice, suggestions?

Coolant exploding out the expansion tank is sometimes caused by overheating, but not always. As Nic suggests, it can be caused by an old cap not holding pressure any more. The bit about the hose splitting is concerning though. If it was just a faulty rad cap, then the hose shouldn't be affected. It would just come spewing out around the rad cap. Those two together suggest overpressurising (although I'm trying to imagine what you mean by the hose being split. That would take immense pressure I would think). Is the hose rubbing against anything hot, thereby weakening it? The hose split needs more investigation, but I would start by: Changing the rad cap. They're pocket money to buy. Don't buy an uprated one, go OEM.

I'm no expert, but here goes: You said it overheats: how do you know it's overheating if the temperature gauge reads normal? White smoke out the exhaust usually means water vapour: could be coolant, but more likely to be vapour from the air, and that's normal when the engine's cold. If the coolant level isn't dropping at all, then it can't really be coolant. There might be a head gasket leak letting small amounts of coolant into the cylinders, I suppose. The engine would probably smoke a lot with a barely-noticeable loss in coolant level. I think you can get a "sniff test" done to test for this.

Seems unlikely: the effect on UK public opinion of the terror attack could go either way. It could push as many people to vote Leave as to vote Stay.

Hands up, I absolutely fell for this. Good one!

I found my NA quite tricky to drive in the snow. Local roads are the killer: compacted snow freezing to ice.

Any news on the price for airbox+filter posted, please? No hurry, mainly just to let you know I'm still up for it.