stevie_b

Check your brake fluid level. If this is low, it can trigger a warning light.

It depends how much Juncker, Merkel, etc value the EU "project" over economic prosperity. In the same way that j_jza80 said that being slightly less well off is a price worth paying for democracy and accountability, the remaining EU states might decide that being less well off is a price they're willing to pay to preserve the EU. If other countries see the Uk leave and not noticably suffer, they might also want to leave, and I think the EU leaders will do everything they can to make sure that doesn't happen. They wouldn't stop trading with us altogether. The volume of trade might decrease though. To use your example, the chickens would be hit with import duty when they enter the UK. This would make it more expensive for the UK consumer, so the UK might buy some of their chickens from other countries. (Import duty might still be charged, unless we have a trade deal). If we're selling chickens to Frexited France, we might we worried that we'd lose 60 million consumers (if all the French trade dried up). But we'd still have the rest of the EU we can sell to at prices that non-EU countries find it hard to compete with.

It's not that we wouldn't be able to survive outside of the EU: it's that we wouldn't be as prosperous. The EU has given us hassle-free cheap trading with 740 million people. Part of Remain's argument was that this would be hard to continue after Brexit, and hard to replace with something else. Maybe it'll get replaced with something less economically juicy. Time will tell, much depends on how good the UK is at doing business with the rest of the world.

If it's code 42, it's likely to be caused by an aftermarket speed converter that's broken, or by a problem on the odometer circuit board. If your speedo is still working, it's unlikely (but not impossible) to be caused by the speed converter.

Probably code 42, the symptoms match. But I'm speculating, so as Raven said, please check the error codes.

More photos

Not me selling, but a very good friend of mine. He is fastidious in looking after his cars: FOR SALE - THE VERY RARE AND EXCLUSIVE SMART BRABUS CONVERTIBLE RED EDITION - £4995.00. POSSIBLY AS FEW AS 15 OF THESE WERE MADE WORDWIDE FEATURING FERRARI ROSSO CORSA PAINT, PADDLE SHIFT GEAR-CHANGE, ALCANTARA RED STICHED TRIM AND DIAMOND RED STICHED SEATS, 3 SPOKE PADDLE SHIFT LEATHER STEERING WHEEL, SOUND PACK AND ENGINE BASED ON THE POWERFUL SMART ROADSTER. Full service history – current owner changes oil every 2,000 miles, excellent bodywork, Grey Full Suede interior, Tyre condition very good, Refurbished 16 inch Alloy Wheels, Electric Windows, 3rd Pod Boost Gauge, S-Mann full stainless steel exhaust, new alternator fitted, New rear window fitted, brand new grooved and drilled front brake disks and pads, current mileage – 50,100. THIS IS THE MOST STRIKING 450 SMART EVER MADE AND MUST BE SEEN TO BE APPRECIATED. [ATTACH=CONFIG]213344[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]213345[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]213346[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]213347[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]213348[/ATTACH]

It's a box-ticking exercise for them. Give them some evidence (e.g. current prices of early mk4 aerotops on ebay/autotrader/auctions) and they'll be happy.

What email program do you use? e.g. Outlook? The spam filter in gmail is pretty good, even the Outlook one is OK.

I'm replacing my worn W58 gearbox with a like-for-like replacement. 1st and 2nd gears are harder than they should be to engage when the box is cold. When it's warm, they're fine. The transmission specialist I'm using for the swap also says that 3rd gear feels a bit notchy. I haven't really noticed this, but I want to be upfront. I've always driven it carefully, but I guess it had a harder life before my ownership. The car is very standard (and has always been so, AFAIK), so it hasn't run anything other than stock NA power. The problem hasn't got any worse during my ownership. This from 10 years ago: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?54341-Difficult-gear-selection More recently: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?324724-Clutch-pedal-tough-gear-change and http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?334379-Advice-on-gearbox-repair I don't know what it's worth, I'm just hoping to offset the cost of the replacement a bit by selling this one. I'm looking for around £250. The box will be swapped out probably next week, so if you're quick it can be test-driven near Basingstoke. If the replacement box turns out to be knackered, I'll probably need to cancel this sale.

Maybe a lot of the dire warnings about Brexit's effect on the economy were just sabre-rattling: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-36771595 We shall see.

My question still stands though. Where has Theresa May lied, in particular regarding the referendum and Brexit?

Have you got a reference for this? If it's true, I strongly suspect it won't trouble the UK's Brexit plans.

Why is that a lie? She was indeed campaigning to remain, but we can still have (and I strongly believe we will have) a new PM who was pro-remain but will still invoke Article 50. I see no dishonesty or lying in that.

Interesting article about evidence presented during (and after) debates. It's about the Chilcot report but I see strong parallels with the Brexit debate. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-36744911 This isn't meant to be a partisan post. It's useful that it isn't about the referendum, because it's easier to see it in a neutral light.

Good advice. We all have to do things for the first time, although I wouldn't recommend brake work until you've got some basics under your belt. Before starting a job like this, I strongly suggest hitting the Search button hard on forums such as this, until you have a clear picture in your mind as to the steps. There can be hidden pitfalls which only become apparent with research or experience, like not doing the bleed nipple up too tight: on some calipers (not so much yours I think), it can crack the caliper casing, and then the caliper is fit for the bin only.

Weird that brake fluid leaked when you undid the bolts. Something's not right there. Fluid will only come out if you undo the tiny bleed nipple, or undo the brake hose, or you extrude a piston to beyond the point where it can seal the fluid inside it.

I've just re-read your first post, and I can guess what's happened. You've removed the pads, then pushed the brake pedal which pushed the pistons out so they're touching the brake disc. You then thought you'd be able to retract the pistons back in by undoing the bleed nipple / brake fluid hose (which one please?) to release the fluid pressure in the system. Having undone one of these things, you pumped the brake again, and got nothing as the brake fluid squirted out of the thing you'd undone. If the above is all correct, fix it by squeezing the pistons in the caliper back into the cliper (should be easier if you've undone the bleed value/brake hose, could be messy though so catch the fluid in a container, brake fluid is nasty). Then do up the thing you undid, top up the reservoir to the max level, and bleed the brake. You might need to bleed all 4 brakes, I can't remember. What you should have done is undone the brake reservoir cap, and used a G clamp to *slowly* push the pistons back in. (If the pistons are clamping onto the disc, that complicates things because you can't separate the disc from the caliper.

I'm not sure what you're trying to do. If you intend to change the brake pads, then bleeding etc shouldn't be necessary. The fact you've got no brake pressure means you have probably undone something you didn't need to undo, or you've popped a piston out of the caliper. As you're a novice, you'll need explicit instructions on how to fix it, but it's hard to give that guidance without knowing exactly what you've done. If all the pistons are still in their caliper cylinder, then you'll need to bleed each caliper, one at a time. If you don't intend to change the brake fluid, there's no need to drain it first. If your car has ABS, that can complicate things a bit. I don't have the details about that.

I'm interested. What power has the gearbox had through it please? Standard NA, NA-T, NA-TT? Do you know any other history about the box?

I'm after a W58 gearbox in VGC. I'll pay good money for one that's only had stock NA power through it, selects gears well with no stiffness or excessive notchiness, and has some kind of forum history I can use to check it's been looked after. Cash waiting.

Then I would suggest you convert the speedo to mph, and leave the odo alone to count up in kms. Most if not all of the speed converters will do this. Converting the odo is extra effort. Note that the speedo and the odo are quite separate things. Converting one of them doesn't automatically convert the other. It sounds strange I know, but that's how it works.

I know the BBC is mistrusted by several on here, but it's the best site I've found that tries to explain in an easy-to-understand way. This is pretty much what I said below: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-politics-uk-leaves-the-eu-36703799