Rob W

16100-49847 is the revised 16100-49846 discontinued part number. I’m sure you could still get them from stock tho. Pretty poor if Toyota made the newer 16100-49847 version of the water pump less in quality.

16100-49847 is the part number I used. I remember the propeller was different, pretty sure my old one was metal and the new was plastic.

As above, Paul at TCB parts. Just placed another order with them, easy to deal with and always keep you informed.

Can you not buy the side pods new still? I have just searched on Amayama and they are showing in stock, painted and around £166 new. I know Amayama can show parts are available but actually it's not the case, just wondered if anyone has tried to buy new.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-GENUINE-TOYOTA-SUPRA-JZA80-FRONT-FENDER-LINER-SET-RH-LH/254034867806?hash=item3b25a8765e:g:GvIAAOSwznxcHQPW Come across these the other day mate.

Headunit is a Pioneer AppRadio SPH-DA100, the first version to come out. Had it years and still working fine. The rear camera comes with two cables to connect:- Power lead - connected to rear reverse light and ground. Video lead - RCA male fitting to connect straight into the rear of the headunit, with a single cable to connect to the reverse camera input cable to know when to automatically bring the image up on the headunit screen.

A couple of pics of mine fitted, screen resolution is fine for what it’s needed for. I connected it up to automatically come on when I put the car in reverse, plus I can turn it on at anytime as well if needed.

Those front arches are not standard Veilside as the profile is much larger shown in the picture. Guessing they are a “one off” or a more aggressive style front over fender.

When I done mine, I had the face of the seal flush with the oil pump housing. That’s how it’s meant to be. Picture from a few years back now.

I liked the look of the Trial Demo Car, the graphics and the kit went well I thought. Gamers orange car was CJ’s originally IIRC. Terry S purple supra before his black one was an animal back in the day. That was when there was very few singled Supras around. Dude’s silver big single auto is another I remember, first big power car I went out in around 800bhp. Unfortunately I remember going round to Matt Harwoods house to help strip it down with my old man after he had the crash, was a nice car.

I bought some Novsight LED 9005 units for dipped and main. Seem good, prefer them then my HID’s I had previously.

Yes remove the door card. 2 screws holding them on, 1 at each end IIRC.

Great price for all that lot, shame your not closer!

Yes which is a different design to the one you posted up mate. Whiffin’s design is what I was looking at doing which doesn’t interfere with the aircon pipes. Was that a one off or is he making a batch of them do you know?

That looks like it would only work if you deleted the aircon. I’m going to mock one up in cardboard and sent it off to Tim at TBDevelopments to get fabricated at some point.

Yes they are the same. Tipex test across the two sections shows if they have split, not sure if you could tell just by condition. I’d buy new, changing them over is abit of a pain and you don’t want to do it twice in a short amount of time fitting a used.

I have a new OEM kit somewhere, will try and find it and get the part number for you. The larger size of the two.

That looks like an interesting bit of kit, look forward to seeing what information you can pull using it

Neither. Email Chris Wilson on here, refurb your calipers with his stainless steel pistons.

Check your fan clutch for the over heating. Warning triangle, as above check brake fluid level.

Love it. Superb cars with the garage to match

It’s that time of the year I change my wheels over to my winter set, whilst I’d have it up in the air I wanted to change the brake pads, brake shoes and fluid as well. Chris Wilson Uk Spec Fast Road pad set. Blueprint rear brake shoes. Rear brake shoe fitting kit. Motul 600 brake fluid 1.5l. ACF-50. I started on the rear first, I thought it was a fiddly job and I wasn’t wrong. Removing the rear caliper and brake disc revealed this state. I removed all the springs and brake shoes, gave it a wipe over with brake cleaner but didn’t go too mad with it. Made sure the hub flange was dirt free and a flat surface for the disc to be re seated onto later. Copaslipped up the contact points on the rear housing, moving areas of the brake shoes and the hub flange for future removal of the rear brake discs. The part I found the pain was pushing on the circle spring holders onto the bar. Have little to no room to get your hand in there to push them on and twist to lock. I was happy to see, 2 years on and the refurb I did on my brake calipers using Chris Wilson stainless steel pistons were still in perfect condition, moving freely and easily. I put a light coating of copaslip on the stainless steel brake pad pins last time around which made them put out with ease. I put the disc on, and tighten it up to the hub to adjust my handbrake to the correct postion. I done it like this so I could feel the resistance myself without the brake pads touching and maybe causing more resistance. After that was done brake caliper and pads back together. The fronts I didn’t take any pictures, it was literally just changing the pads over and a clean up. Flushed the old brake fluid out replacing for the Motul 600 using all 1.5l of it. When everything was done, I gave the suspension parts and subframes a coating of ACF-50 for protection. Unfortunately after all this, I couldn’t fit my winter set of wheels. My near side front schrader valve was leaking, trying to remove it to reseal I rounded off the head. I’ve had to drill it out and currently waiting for a replacement to turn up.

If I was to do it again I would go Chris Wilson’s uprated SMIC, no real need for a FMIC unless your thinking about going big power in the future. As stated it’s the pipe work that is the issue with keeping the stock air box, I had my pipe work made up so I could keep the stock air box with my Blitz 4” 3 Row FMIC. With exhausts, I’ve had the Blitz Nur Spec R, Whifbitz 4” TI and currently now running the HKS Hi-Power Racing. The HKS is the best for clearance, the Blitz being the worst.

It’s not that much of a pain job, done it a few months back when I got my new struts from SGS. The boot is quite heavy when it is not supported with the struts so be careful. If you loosen off the rear quarter window plastics, the part that goes into the boot you can get your hand in the gap just about to get to nuts. Sliced my hand up doing it tho on the plastic. It would be alot easier if someone can give you a hand doing it.

Been looking for one for ages, everyone I come across is the slightly smaller version. IIRC they came on manual 6 speed models.