Chris88

I guess that Toyota considered the Supra chassis stiff enough without an additional brace but not so the heavier Aristo.

Try Cometic (http://www.cometic.com) they're American but have Multi-Layer Steel head gaskets in a whole range of thicknesses.

Only one reservoir but there are two pistons (one behind the other) so unless the reservoir itself is empty there is a redundant system. Of course if you have a pipe failure you can empty the reservoir pretty quickly.

But it's Euros .... wait till they have the result of the Greek vote tomorrow and they'll be worth pennies.

You can use pretty much any ATF in the power steering system. I use Dexron III.

If the ARBs are adjustable stiffen the back and/or soften the front will reduce understeer. Improved front tyres will reduce understeer. If the dampers have adjustable rate harden rear and/or soften fronts will reduce understeer. Increase rear tyre pressure and/or reduce front tyre pressure will reduce understeer. Try 32 front, 36 rear. Get rid of the LSD as it seriously increases understeer.

Could be an issue with a speed delimiter/speed converter (if you have one). The HKS literature for the type II and T6 both describe flashing of the TRC/slip control light when you go over the previously limited speed.

The correct way to check the transmission fluid is. 1. Drive for 30 minutes using all of the gears. 2. Park up level and apply the handbrake FIRMLY. 3. Put the gearbox in drive (the handbrake will hold it). 4. Pull the transmission dipstick, wipe it, re-insert, pull again, read the level. It should be at the hot / warm marker. 5. Remember to put the gearbox back into park before you release the handbrake. Do not try to check the level on the cold marker as it's only intended to allow you to get the level close to right when you replace the fluid and before you drive to start the hot check procedure.

At least they're not bringing them here ................... are they? Bloody typical though playing into the hands of the traffickers. They now know that all they have to do is pack as many as possible onto a boat or barge, tow it out to sea and abandon it for the soft pussy liberal westerners to sort out. What they should do is pick them up (it's hardly reasonable just to leave them) then steam across to Libya and land them on the beach ............... Sorted.

Do nothing is the best course of action. It's after the fact, you have nothing further to gain, and fortunately nothing serious happened. However you've already gained an appreciation that not all have the same safety standards (and common sense) as yourself and you can use this to help judge those that can be trusted in the future.

Are you sure that the now damaged gearbox is actually the gearbox you sold?

Has no one succeeded in this?

I realise this is a bit of a thread resurrection but I've read through more than once and I can't convince myself that anyone has managed to successfully delimit an Auto VVTI. Has anyone actually done it without replacing the factory ECU, what level of success did they have and most importantly, what did they use to do it?

I'm no Supra expert but if this was a Soarer I'd be saying bypass the fuel pump ECU in the diagnostic port by connecting B+ and FP which will make the fuel pump run at full voltage. If the problem goes away then it's the fuel pump ECU and either remove it to run at full voltage all of the time or replace it. If the problem does not go away with the fuel pump ECU bypass in then my next port of call would be the fuel pressure regulator and the vacuum piping connecting it to the intake plenum before finally considering a fuel pump change.

Are you sure that the problem is with the FCD. It could be with the fuel pump ECU or with the fuel pump itself.

Reduced weight in the rear, plus rear springs / dampers too stiff and low profile tyres are the biggest contributors to rear wheel hopping.

It is self evident that the centre bearing mountings are in the same position on all Soarer bodies and I know for absolute certain that the small case Supra LSD and small case Soarer open diff have the same input flange in the same place (I have just replaced a 4.083:1 Soarer open diff with a 4.083:1 Supra LSD on my 3.0L Soarer). It has been proven several times that the V8 Soarer 3.906:1 open diff can be directly replaced with either the open or LSD versions of the 4.083:1 Soarer diff. It follows therefore that the Soarer V8 rear prop must be a direct fit between the centre bearing bolts and the diff flange of any small case diff fitted with the smaller flange. Conclusion is that the Supra TT autobox, Supra TT front prop, Soarer V8 rear prop, Soarer or Supra A0xx diff with smaller flange is a good fit for the JZZ30 (1JZGTE engine) or JZZ31 (2JZGE engine) Soarers.

Have read through the entire linked thread very carefully David and it seems to me that Neil tried an SC430 rear section which was too short and fitted a spacer which lead to vibration. I have measured from the bellhousing to the centre bearing bolts on my 3.0L Soarer with everything standard (Soarer autobox, Soarer front prop, Soarer rear prop), as accurately as I can measure the distance is 1170mm. I then assembled my Supra TT box, Supra front prop and Supra rear prop, the distance over the bellhousing to the centre bearing bolts is the same at 1170mm. I then replaced the Supra rear prop with a Soarer V8 prop (exactly the same configuration but 140mm longer), the distance over the Supra gearbox, Supra front prop and to the centre bearing bolts of the Soarer V8 rear section is again 1170mm. Conclusion is that the Supra TT auto box, Supra TT front section and Soarer V8 rear section is OK, at least as far as the centre bearing.

Sounds like it's either a worn or broken gear in the gearbox. Make sure your one piece propshaft is well aligned and balanced or your next issue is going to be the gearbox output bearing.

According to the EPC the last Supra off the production line was JZA80-1005856. It was a White RZ TT6 which came off the line in July 2002.

There has been some discussion as to whether or not there are standard propshaft components that can be used when installing the hybrid Supra TT gearbox into a MkIII Soarer. With previous installations custom rear sections have been manufactured to get around the problem that the Supra propshaft is too short. The Soarer 2JZGE and 1JZGTE propshafts are no good because the rear section has the female spline. However the rear section of the Soarer 1UZFE V8 propshaft mates directly with the front end of the Supra TT propshaft. I have checked the lengths from the bellhousing to the centre bearing and have measured the rear sections, see below. The difference in length is almost exactly the same as the difference in wheelbase so the answer for hybrid gearbox fitment in the Soarer is Supra TT front prop with Soarer V8 rear prop.

Yes but don't they also convert to MAP and use a Supra TT or Aristo ECU?

I'm confused. What is your objective here? Seems that everyone else understands the content / quality of the Whifbitz kit and is able to make thier own judgement of value (good or bad) based on same, so what does anyone gain from this ranting?

Where in East Anglia are you? There's a guy in Wisbech, Cambridgeshire who has a shed load (quite literally) of reconditioned MkIII Soarer calipers. The front calipers of the Soarer TT and UZZ32 active V8 are identical to the J Spec MkIV Supra brakes.

It's a 1995 JZZ31 Soarer, same engine, gearbox and lots more as the MkIV Supra NA. This is my project car. It already has UK Supra brakes and aftermarket Supra suspension, will soon have the Supra gearbox and Whifbitz Supra NA-T kit.