Chris88

At that it's hardly worth the hassle of trying to find one second hand.

What kind of delivery time did they give you mate?

I'd go with that as most ignition related issues become worse with increased load not at tick-over.

I don't think it would do any harm but TBH I can't see why you would want too non-linked BOV. If they're both working properly only one (the one with the lowest pre-load spring rate) will ever work.

Yes, I'm going NA-T on a 2JZGE but the engine is in a Soarer. My turbo is a Borg Warner S360 configured for the NA-T by Whifbitz and (at least to begin with) I'm going at stock 10:1 compression. After a bit of fun with that I'll decide whether to change the headgasket or the pistons.

If you change both you will drop the CR down to 8.1:1 which will give a huge power capacity (more than the bottom end can take) but will increase lag.

There are two basic ways to reduce the compression on a 2JZGE engine when you go NA-T. Either you can change the headgasket for the thicker TT version (reduces CR from 10.0:1 to 9.2:1. Or you can change the pistons as you describe, reduces CR from 10.0:1 to 9.0:1. AFAIK the advantage of changing pistons is that the squish in the area around the top of the piston stays at the stock distance (stock is 1.14mm). If you change the head gasket instead of the pistons then the squish distance increases to 2.15mm. The squish area forces the mixture into the centre of the combustion chamber and towards the plug so (within reason) the smaller the squish distance the better and more complete the combustion. There is a counter argument which says that you will get slightly better response with the slightly higher compression when just using the TT gasket. There's not that much difference in the amount of boost the two options will take with good road fuel. 1.8 bar if you change the gasket as against 2.0 bar if you change the pistons and both of these will give you 650+HP capabilities. Of course it's a lot cheaper to change the headgasket so ultimately you pays your money and you takes your choice.

It will fit and will work fine but it's not as effective in terms of combusion efficiency as keeping the GE headgasket and fitting GTE pistons.

Yes easily, the Whifbitz kit with bigger than stock injectors should get to 400BHP on stock 10:1 compression without detonation (assuming that you have capable engine management) so you should have no problem with the 9.0:1 compresion that the stock headgasket with TT pistons gives. There's a fundamental misconception here. Whilst it's basically true that the volume airflow will be more or less the same regardless of boost pressure, that's because the engine is an air pump and the volume airflow is a function of displacement, engine speed and efficiency, nothing to do with boost pressure. However it's the mass airflow that counts. Mass airflow is a function of volume airflow and density. Air density is a function of pressure and temperature. The higher the pressure the higher the density, conversely the higher the temperature the lower the density. What you should choose is a turbo which is working as close to it's best efficiency as possible at the power target you are looking for. That way the turbo will transfer less heat to the intake air during the compression and you will end up with cooler (more dense) air going into the engine. It doesn't follow that a bigger turbo turning more slowly will be more efficient and you can see this by looking at any turbo map which will show that the peak efficiency is in the middle of the map. Yes the difference in spool time / lag would be noticable.

Thanks guys. I'll make sure that there's enough space (don't know the thickness of the Mocal sandwich yet) and if they fit with the filter I think I'll go with the turbo take-off nearest to the pump.

I'm just sorting out my NA-T and will be using a Mocal thermostatic sandwich plate for the oil coooler take-off. I also plan to use a 'standard' sandwich plate for the feed to the turbo and the oil pressure sensor. Which plate should be closest to the block and therefore closest to the pump because as I see it there are pros and cons to both ways around. With the turbo feed closer to the pump it will see the higher pressure but always the hotter oil, whereas with the Mocal plate closer to the pump the turbo will be fed at a slightly lower pressure but once the Mocal bypass is closed it will receive the cooled oil. Which way is best, or is there an issue which makes it not a good idea?

Because it's easier than disconnecting / reconnecting the transmission. With just an engine crane it's also easier to get the engine and box out together if you put the rear wheels on ramps, it makes the assembly just slot in and out. If all you want to do is get the sump off you can also do it by lowering the subframe instead of removing the engine.

Hammerite ....... marvelous stuff just the same as Grandad used to have. Rattle cans ....... right up there with Frozen Pizza as world changing developments, and a lot easier / quicker than polishing case Aluminium.

Rich; way back in post #2 you were painting the block, gearbox and anciliaries red and silver. Looks good. But what did you use? Is it some super special unobtainium based paint as used by NASA, or is it the good old rattle can?

If you stop driving when you first spot the smoke (or soon thereafter) then it's probably turbo rebuild time. If you wait until the seals blow it's odds-on replacement turbo(s).

Smoke on first starting suggests valve stem seals. Smoke whilst parking or in a queue after running suggests turbo seals. Increased turbo loading after BPU suggests turbo seals. It's 2:1 on turbo seals, but either way it's not a cheap fix.

5 speed shifts like it should have been installed in a JCB = R154 5 speed shifts like it deserves to be in a Lexus = W58 6 speed = V160/V161

According to the ECU part number it is a VVTI engine.

Power to the Club then. If it hadn't been raised here, leading to informed guys asking the right questions it could have ended with some innocent getting ripped off.

No mechanical or electrical faults ....... other than that the Tooth Fairies came and swapped the engine in the night Could also say that his BBS alloys are Wolfrace, same as I have on my project car.

Suicidal ...............

Scary stuff. Brave man to consider doing anything other than tick-over to see if it runs when you know the eManage is not mapped to do the fueling. I will be using the full kit on stock compression. Additional parts to begin with will just be Wideband, Boost Controller and BOV.

It's because everyone (well almost everyone) wants the manual and it costs ££££s to do a manual conversion to a V160/V161 6 speed box. Good news for the minority that actually want an Auto though.

I would have the tyres off first. Mainly because I would be worried about the affect of the levers and clamps used by the tyre fitters if they just had the rim with no centre.

I also think it's more than just a map to get you to the tuners but the boost is limited just by the wastegate spring which should be set at 7 psi. The statement in the Whifbitz blurb looks like a standard caveat which they would be foolish to leave out. Question is "what boost pressure is it achieving at cut-out?". If it's more than 5 or 6 psi then maybe there's something wrong with the wastegate pipework or the spings in the wastegate need checking (AFAIK there should be only one).