Chris88

Thanks David, but what's this needle you're talking about?

Just been out to check what I have currently against the Sat Nav (which isn't normally in this car) and got a surprise. With the current speed converter, diff, wheel, tyre setup (275/35/18) the speedo is reading low. At 60 mph per the speedo the Sat Nav is switching between 61 and 62, at 30 the Sat Nav is a solid 31. My read on this is that the Sat Nav would be somewhere around 30.75 at 30 on the speedo, with double that it makes 61.5 which causes the switching at an indicated 60. This should reduce the error to around 5.7% which is indicated 63 at a true 60, I guess I can live with that if I have to. But the question is, how accurate is the speed indication of the Sat Nav going to be?

I'm planning to fit a hybrid gearbox to my NA-T but I will need to fix the speedo error. Right now I have a 4.083 LSD and the speedo conversion has already been done using a fixed ratio converter but the speed sensor setup in the JDM turbo autobox I will be using is (as far as I can see) designed for a 3.769 diff. I think that this will produce a significant speedo error of about +8.3% or in other words at a true road speed of 60 mph the speed will indicate 65 mph. I understand that this is within the legal limit of +10% but does anyone know of an adjustabe speed converter / delimiter that I can fit to bring the speedo back in line with the true speed?

Tried it several times and it always seems to come out with the party I will be voting for tomorrow so I suppose it must be a reasonable tool.

Soarer diff and all A0-- Supra diffs have the same propshaft connections and mountings only the large case (B0--) supra diff is different. The V8 Soarer diff has a different ratio (3.906) to all Supra diffs to suit the Soarer V8 engine and gearbox. For front end of propshaft, see other post.

AFAIK you can use the stock headers but the engine mounts are different so you will need the Soarer mounts, you will also need the AFM (the Soarer V8 ECU will work without the AFM but you will get Depends on the gearbox you're using but if it's from a JZ you will need a bellhousing or adaptor plate. If the box is from a 2JZGTE you will need the gearbox valve assembly from a GE (or maybe from the Soarer box) for line pressure control. Either way you will need the line pressure cable. If the box is from the Soarer you will also need the front part of the propshaft because the Soarer V8 uses a flexible coupling at the box and the boxes on the JZ engines don't. For the rear end of the prop you could shorten the Soarer rear end or use the rear end from a JDM Supra TT (the rear end from a Supra NA prop doesn't couple to the Soarer front end because the male / female splines are swapped over). And. The engine should come from a UZZ30 (rare in the UK) or a UZZ31 Soarer. Partly because the engine from the UZZ32 Soarer is different (longer) and partly because being responsible for the scrapping of one of only 872 UZZ32s ever made should be made a capital offense.

Easter Mate. In the PC USA they can't give it the name of a religeous festival.

It depends what diff you already have in your Supra but with it being a JDM TT, probably with an auto box then you have an A02_ diff with a ratio of 3.769. If the scrap Soarer is a V8 then it has the A01_, 3.906 diff and if its a straight 6 (2.5TT or 3.0NA) then it has the A02_, 4.083 diff. Either way your speedo will read fast because the sensor is in the gearbox before the diff. With the 3.906 Soarer diff you will be doing 57.9 at an indicated 60 and with the 4.083 Soarer diff it will be 55.4. This will also affect the shift points (same revs, lower true road speed) and increase acceleration. What engine is in the scrap Soarer and do you know what year it is?

It will fit fine, I have a small case Supra diff on one of my Soarers, but the ratios and diff references are not the same. A01_ In the Soarer 3.906, in the Supra 4.083 A02_ In the Soarer 4.083, in the Supra 3.769

Sounds like the delimiter is fitted incorrectly and is effecting the signal to the ECU which controls the gearbox shift points. When fitted wrong a delimiter can do lots of different strange things, for example mine works fine unless the shift lever is in '2' and then the speedo just reads zero.

Work out the swept volume (Bore^2 x stroke / 4). If you know that the current CR is 8.5:1 then the swept volume is 7.5 the volume when the piston is at TDC (the residual volume). Divide the swept volume by 7.5 to get the current residual volume and divide the swept volume by 8.5 to get the residual volume for CR of 9.5:1. Subtract the 9.5:1 residual volume from the current residual volume, divide the result by bore^2 and multiply by 4 to give you the amount to skim off the head.

How about this one. Shame I had to re-space it after getting pulled.

That doesn't run with stock fueling Matt. It needs a piggy-back for extra fueling on the stock injectors to run at just 7psi.

#1 #5 #4 & #6 #3 #2 #7

Transformer Rectifier to go from AC to DC. Inverter to go from DC to AC.

When I changed the reg on my car (just before they closed the local DVLA offices) they didn't need the MOT. Later when I needed to get a copy of the MOT I went to a Halfords service centre with the V5 and they printed a new MOT from the database (cost me a tenner). The new MOT certificate had the new reg on it.

Always a difficult one this. 1st problem with a shared driveway is that you can never leave anything in it (car, trailer, caravan etc.) so you are limited to whatever drive there is beyond the shared section. Second problem is the neighbours. They may be great right now but they won't be forever. They could move or have a dramatic change in circumstances which turns them into your worst nightmare. What if the neighbour blocks the drive, what do you do next if he/she gets stroppy? Personally I would avoid the shared drive. Even if you drop the offer and the lower one is accepted the drive will still be shared. I'd look elsewhere mate.

Run the rear wheels onto ramps to set the nose of the car down this reduces the levering needed on the engine to get it in (it can be lifted in horizontal) and put the engine and gearbox in together).

Yes the box will fit because AFAIK the 1JZ and 2JZ belhousing mountings are the same. However the Soarer TT box uses cable for pressure modulation whereas the Supra TT is electronically controlled so it wouldn't work without other issues being sorted.

doh.

Those definitely won't fit because they are a 4 bolt pattern (4x114.3) and the Supra is a 5 bolt pattern.

NA has output spline, TT has output flange.

You need to be careful with any kit sourced from the USA as there can be issues with the position of the steering column on a RHD JDM car.

What Lexus was it with a 2JZGTE?

Put it in P to lock the propshaft and pull on the handbrake hard to lock the other wheel. Undo the screws with a small impact wrench.