Chris88
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Everything posted by Chris88
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AFAIK J spec rear disc is 307mm diameter and UK spec rear disc is 324mm diameter. They're both 16mm thick.
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Too thin and too small on the radius for a Supra.
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Thinking is not the same as knowing though. It's just that if the odo is still in Km then it's clearly not affected by the speed converter so it follows that if the odo is reading wrong it has to be something else. Only other possibilities I can think of (thinking again, not knowing) are: diff ratio changed, wrong drive gear on the speed sensor, rolling radius too small. Wrong diff or wrong drive gear are both possible if either have been broken in the past, wrong rolling radius would have to be so far out (about 100mm smaller on the tyre diameter) that you couldn't miss it.
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If the ODO is still in Km but still reading wrong I don't see how it can be anything to do with the speed converter.
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Is by coincidence the speedo out by about 7mph when you're doing 50? Sounds like the speedo converter or maybe someone has swapped a diff at some point. The difference between the A02 diff (3.769) and the A03 diff (3.266) is almost exactly 15 miles in every 100.
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Hopefully I will be able to second that from experience shortly and I have every confidence I will.
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Either make a reservoir or buy a nice shiny chrome one.
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According to the EPC the rear pads are the same as a 93-97 GS300 but the fronts are unique to the JDM Supra.
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Once is never enough mate ...........
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My money would be on the clutch / release bearing. If it makes any funny noise (however faint) when stationary and out of gear and when the gearbox isn't turning it would seem pretty unlikely that the noise is comming from the gearbox.
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I was going to buy from Whifbitz. Are you saying that Toyota themselves are cheaper?
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I think it's firing order too. This diagram is from a JZZ31 Soarer which has the same 2JZGE engine. You can see from the positions of the leads in the first two clips which cap connection is which. #5 is at the 3 O'Clock position and #2 is at 9 O'Clock.
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Engine mount, gearbox mount or diff mounts.
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I thought that there were numbers on the cap mate. Don't you have them?
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Do some research on the cooling system of the JZZ30 Soarer. The twin parallel turbos are water cooled.
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Exactly. There would be extra milage in fitting a second SMIC in the RHS front over going with even a good FMIC for the same reason.
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If it lasts beyond the first few minutes of running it's odds-on turbo seals.
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If the FMIC was invisible from the outside but the SMIC shone like a beacon it would be the SMIC that everyone wanted. What does that tell you?
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Those are not diff flanges mate.
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Try it and you'll fill the engine bay with hot oil and probably set fire to the car (if it lasts long enough for things to get hot). There is far to much flow from the oil pump to pass the full flow through the turbo bearing housing so something would let go. Some turbo manufacturers require that a restrictor is fitted into the oil feed to limit the flow if you are using a large bore feed line.
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You can also measure the offset yourself as follows: Lay the wheel & tyre on the ground (outside up) and measure the distance from the ground to the hub mounting face using a tape rule (DIM A). Turn the wheel over (outside down) and measure the distance from the ground to the hub mounting face again (DIM B). Subtract DIM B from DIM A and divide the answer by 2 to get the offset. EG: DIM A = 167.5mm; DIM B = 97.5mm; DIM A - DIM B = 70mm; offset = 35mm
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Yes. David's photo is the donut on the end of the propshaft and connects to the input flange of the diff.
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Basic choice is either piggy-back (where you keep the existing ECU) or stand-alone (which completely replaces the existing ECU). After that there are lots of options both ways. Cheapest option is piggy-back (especially if you have an auto gearbox).
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I'll thank you David, even if no-one else does.
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It would depend on what kind of engine management you plan to use, however it's always better (AFAIK anyway) to use a wideband sensor.
