herbiemercman

Hi Carbon Bullet, I have had further thought on this and looked at my current tyres which are Kumho Ecsta directional, they have 6mm trad depth, so i figured that with the annual mileage i do, 2k, it will mean me storing the tyres for 2 or 3 years, i should have thought more about it. You will sell them as they are a real bargain. It was £165 inc.vat, for both tyres, fitted last year on my car. Many thanks. Herbie.

Hi Carbon Bullet, I will have them at £100 delivered to pr67jt, most people will not take risks on second hand tyres, but i will, at a good price. Where i live they are £165 fitted and balanced. Herbie.

Hi brom86, £40 delivered, if it works, ( folds electrically) ? my near side mirror is ok but does not fold back. Why are you assuming it does not operate? Herbie.

Hi Sheefa money sent. Cheers. Herbie.

Hi Mike,Sending money now, thank you for the info re the chrome issue. Herbie.

Hi Sheefa, I will take them, is pay-pal ok? i can send the money as a gift so you will not have a fee. Herbie.

Hi Mike, I'll have them, are you ok with pay-pal ? i can send the money as a gift so you wont be charged. Herbie.

I think you have all outlined the parameters of this, if you are prepared to take a risk and have a out of the weather situation with some or most of the tools, then a good deal of satisfaction and knowledge can come from this, and with this club, some key knowledge is on tap. But this is not for everybody, i explained in my thread why i subcontracted the job, this was not "plain sailing" but for the most part solid, just loose ends spoiled it. The other thing you learn is how it all works and how to know when it is going wrong and how to fix it, anyway, the biggest buzz for me is the actual performance, basically i got a new super car for £4.5K, can't be bad. Herbie.

Hi noz, That is where i am at, Bignum you sound like you are proud of being unqualified, but it sounds like you just do things, you must have a bob or two and experience, not all qualification are written on a piece of paper, let's face it many people with degrees etc are working in supermarkets. I was saying i had the ability to do my NA?T but not the confidence, especially the mapping. Following my NA/T i had to sort out the clutch replacement, fit a thermostatic oil cooler, fit three heat shields, secure the boost pipes,replace the turbo jacket, replace the coolant and the engine oil. I learned a lot from club members and doing the tidying up work. herbie.

From memory my brother's TT was putting out black smoke and carboned up the turbos etc, Chris Wilson sorted out the problem, cleaned everything and had to replace the ECU and other things. The damage had been done when the car was at a garage for repairs etc and they had kept jump starting it as it should have had a new battery fitted before it was sent into the garage. Jump starting is an absolute no no for me as i know of many issues where voltage/ current spikes (transients), have caused damage, the only thing i will go along with on jump starting is for the doner vehicle to be running for 5 minutes with the jump leads having been correctly secured, and then try cranking, this minimisses the chance of spiking. Herbie.

Hi Everyone, I am intrigued at whether i should have gone DIY on my NA/T upgrade or had a go myself. I am i qualified HND Engineeer and i have built bike engines and boat engines, but had the opinion that tuning a Supra which was 18 years old, and IMHO the actual mapping of the "brain" (ECU) which controls the performance was paramount, so i went for a guy with experience who was relatively low cost and had a statistically meaningful record of his NA/T builds, including his own cars which he raced etc. I want us to be technical here, and not political, as with time, i have become aware of the divides there are in the club between the "Doctor" and other club registered tuners, which i think there is nothing wrong with that IMHO. The thing i am now looking back on, is i know, i could have taken the stock parts off, and put the NA/T parts on, i am not saying that it is easy, and to do it, involves taking the engine and gearbox out, the turbo oil feed in particular,has to be done professionally, front off the car removed, etc, clutch assembly removed and replaced, mapping and road testing, and in my case i had an exhaust system which was not what everyone else has, a stock silencer and all the rest of the system stainless steel, this required a special bespoke downpipe. So, could i have gone DIY and acheived the end result, which incidently is superb? Herbie.

Many thanks for all the comments from members, especially Chris Wilson who i know personally and he sorted my brother's 2tt when no one else had a clue what to do, we need to be aware of the knowledge he inputs to this club. He does not come cheap, but the best never do. Herbie.

Hi Bignum & JJZ, My car was mapped on Shell v-power, round my way they call it V-Max, just thought i would see what other members think about trying the standard unleaded with your own additive like Redex etc, may be its best to stick with the Shell V-power. I do not want to compromise the way the car is running, perfect tick over, very smooth driving gently and lots of smooth power on tap. Some of my friends use the Shell V-power and there cars are designed to run on standard unleaded, but they claim the car runs better, is it the case with my NA/T that standard unleaded would not be good for my level of tuning? I ask this as my compression ratio is still stock. Herbie.

I have mixed views on this subject, re are all fuels the same? i have a friend who was involved in the Isle of Man TT races as i was, and his job is delivering petrol to outlets. He claimed that they all fill up at the same place and deliver to everyone. With diesel i dose my own fuel with straight 2T oil and cetane, works out at 80p / shot and far less than redex etc at £5. With petrol i am not sure about the situation and post my NA/T conversion i was advised that Shell V Max was a must? My question is, if i buy standard unleaded and add a dose of redex additive am i using a suitable fuel for my car? Herbie.

Glad i bought a new one in 1996 when everyone thought these cars were from "Mars", the headlights at night and the rear spoiler were mind blowing at the time, my brother bought a TT new at the same time as i bought my NA manual, both black, he had a house party just to show it off, people were in awe, he still has the car with 40K miles on it, and it was sorted 2 years back by Chris Wilson. It's nice to know the breed are actually going up in value, that is academic to me as i just love the thing, especially now that it has a real power supply. herbie.

That was awesome, looks like it is a rare ocurance, but possible to have explosive failure. May be not over reving and an annual inspection of the turbo bearing and turbine fins is a good idea, it's a simple job and would give some peace of mind. I have a big AMG Merc and i just fitted another turbo at 230K miles, the bearing was ok but the turbine blades were eroded 20% and boost was down, it took a long time for me to notice why i was loosing power, the MAF was changed and all the pipes checked but no problem, the last thing was the turbo, German engineering and not bad at 230K miles. Herbie.

Are there any early warning signs of failure occuring, like a noise or lack of performance, boost low etc, or for the most part is failure sudden? From the last few postings i think i have been nieve as the failures described are mega.Are there any club members who have experienced such failures?

Thank you for comments guys, but i still would like to know what the "worst case scenario" is for failure? and if, and how, the engine can get damaged. Herbie.

I just enjoyed reading an old thread on which turbo should we trust? I am lucky i can buy the best or the cheapest, but based on FFP, (fit for purpose) i have the XS T 70, performance is great, but i only do 2k/anum, so it will take a few years before i can give an opinion,i hope?, on it's longevity, however i would be grateful if any members can update me on the current reliability situation on XS cheap turbos. ? The "Doctor", who i have great confidence in for his "bottle", and experience, and guts to try new things, to help members who have a limited budget. The main thing for me is, how many turbine blades have entered the engine and caused obviouse destruction? In my engineering mind, it is the exhaust turbine which is exposed to high temperature stresses, and failure here will shed particles down the exhaust pipe, not into the engine. I will bow to better judgement on this, but to me the air intake side has a much easier life. I am not trying to start "world war three" on this subject and over he past 12 months i have got the gist of the divide between the "Doctor" and some other members, members on each side of the divide have helped me, so i am technical and not political. Any information will be appreciated. Herbie.

Hi Everyone, Yes i will remove the badges, i must have a "blind spot" at times, as Robbie Burns once said, "Ah wa a shock it well gey us, to see ourselves as others see us." My better half was ahead of you but i took no notice, the reflectors i am keeping, but i will black the stainless steel front grille. Thanks for your comments it's appreciated. Herbie.

Hi Everyone, I have spent 6 months getting my 20 year old car, which i bought new, and imported from Cork in Southern Ireland, has now re-vitalised the enthusiasm i had for this car, which was way ahead of it's time, and is still turning heads, and performing as well as modern high tech £50K stuff. many of you know i sorted the power supply, then the interior and finally the tweeks on the bodywork. Hope you like the pics. Herbie. PS: Thanks again to all members who helped me. 20160226_161952.jpg (197.0 KB) 20160226_162054.jpg (203.4 KB) 20160226_162014.jpg (204.8 KB) 20160224_141950.jpg (203.2 KB) 20160226_162035.jpg (209.2 KB) 20160226_162000.jpg (199.0 KB) 20160226_161927.jpg (206.3 KB) 20151007_161210.jpg (195.2 KB) 20151007_161257.jpg (191.4 KB)

Hi Kasheye,Are the lights sold? and if so do you have any more? my lights are like new but i like the ones you produce. Herbie.

I struggled with this when i changed my cloth seat covers for leather, the link on the "how to do the job" was misleading as it showed the head rest release button from the inside of the seat when it was completely stripped down, this was not correct, the button is as per the photo allready posted, but you need a good screw driver to press the button hard as you prize the headrest up, a very bad design. Herbie.

Bump.

mail order, if you want details pm me.